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Help- Just bought 01 5.2 1500, now won't start, stuck on street!

2K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  thatoneguy11 
#1 ·
Hello all,

I just purchased a new to me 01 Ram 1500 4x4 with the off road package-
I got a good deal on it because it needed a waterpump- it was seeping. When I test drove it, it ran well.

I drove it home the 15 miles and while driving home, it started sputtering- I thought maybe it was low on fuel so I pulled off and put some in. (the engine temp was fine, and it wasn't leaking too much, not enough to raise the temp or to loose heat.)

I got it home, and started it once, and it was really hard to start- It took about 2 mins of cranking to get it running. It seemed as though when I would release the key from the cranking position it would fire a bit, (then stall) but wouldn't fire while actually cranking. The check engine light is not on, but I'll have to get my code reader to see if there are any codes.

Now, I have to move it off the street to my garage, (come Monday I have to switch sides or I get a ticket) and it won't start at all- I hate to have it towed, my garage is only a 1/2 mile away.

I thinking maybe the coolant temp sensor isn't making contact with coolant, Is there a way to just get it started? Once the waterpump is done I'm going to bleed the system, and I can do further diagnostics, I just need to get it off the street, and it's cold and raining here.

thanks for any help!
 
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#2 ·
Yikes. While the coolant temp sensor can have a big impact on the fuel curve, it shouldn't be causing the problem you have, especially when the engine is cold. I would check fuel pressure and volume, crank position sensor signal and sync with the cam sensor and the condition of the ignition system, both primary and secondary.
 
#3 ·
Yeah, I was thinking the same. The coolant temp sensor could be totally dry and it'd still start and run. Poor fuel pressure is definitely where I'd start. Bad pump, clogged filter. Try this. Turn the key on to just the point before the starter activates, and give it a few seconds, then go the rest of the way to kick in the starter. This will give the fuel system time to build up some pressure. It will also point towards the problem. You will want to have that fuel pressure checked. Then go from there.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the input. I had to have it towed, but am still stuck with the same results- no start, and I tried to spray some starting fluid into the throttle body, no fire. I can hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key. I tried a few times with leaving the key on for a few seconds the turning it over with no results. Doesn;t even sputter at this point.

I scanned the system, and there aren't any codes. No pending codes either.

My next step is to check for spark- seeing as there aren't any codes, is there something I should look for first?

I appreciate the help.
 
#13 ·
Ok, I had an opportunity to look at the truck today-

Here's what I came up with-
A) pushed the shraeder valve on the fuel line in, a little fuel came out, but seemingly not a lot of pressure.
B) when cranking, hooking a voltmeter to the wires that go to the coil, I get about 5volts while cranking. I would think it should be 12v consistently As soon as I let off the key, it quickly jumps to 11 or 12, then 0. I'm thinking this could be my problem-not enough voltage to the coil.

Does this mean a crank sensor or could it be a grounding issue? I cleaned several ground locations-
-PCM to body
-Body to engine
-Battery to engine
-Battery to frame

No change.
 
#14 ·
Could be a mirad of problems...

Try tapping on the fuel tank while someone cranks it and make sure it's getting fuel.

Crank position sensor could be going bad.

Temp sensor could be dry or bad ($17)

Plug on the coil could be bad and needs to be wiggled around and then replaced.

Make sure it's got adequate spark...
 
#15 ·
If you want to verify ground condition, do a simple voltage drop test. Set your DVOM up fo the 12V scale and attach the positive lead to the ground location you want to test and the negative to the negative battery terminal and turn on the key. You don't want to see more than about 1/2 volt drop max. This test can also be used to check positive wires using the positive battery terminal. Have you pulled the steering column covers to check the ignition switch for melting?
 
#17 ·
There wasn't any OHMage between the terminals of the coil. In searching for a new one, I discovered that its the same for my Jeep Wrangler, which is right next to it in the garage. Pulled that out, put it in and it fired right up.


thanks for all your all your help folks!
And you'll notice that I gave you some Rep Points for posting your solution. Nice Job :smileup:
 
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