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Helping rear suspension

4K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  smurfs 
#1 ·
We have a 2013 Laramie 4x4 5.7 that we love. Squats a tad in the bed when we pull our 30 travel trailer with a weight distribution hitch setup.
I don't want to add an air lift kit or really raise the truck at all..not against those that do it's just not my style.
Would love to help out the truck..suggestions?
Thanks and Happy New Year all.
 
#2 ·
Well since you don't want to air bag it as stated, might I suggest some heavier duty coil springs such as the TufTruck TTC-1210, 1223, or 1223V(Variable Rate).
 
#4 ·
Or you can add a set of Timbren's (see my sig)....they replace the "bump-stops" over your rear axle...takes about 5-10 min to install, and can be removed and replaced with the factory ones just as fast. I only notice them when I am towing or hit a big bump...much easier and economical than a lot of the other options. Simple and easy :)
 
#6 ·
Yes you will have to raise your truck from the frame, allowing your rear suspension to stretch right out, then you pull out your factory bump stops and replace them with the new timbren stops. You would never get the timbrens in on the ground, when your truck is sitting under its own weight the new stops sit about an inch or so from your axle, so when you put a load on the back these come in contact with the axle and spread the load and minimize squat. I had these on my last truck (2010) and although they worked well with towing, the problem that I had with these is when driving empty, when you travel over deep hum mucks in the road, your suspension becomes very stiff abruptly when they contact the axle, almost causing a kick-back with the rear suspension. I now have airlift 1000's. I considered stiffer coils at one point, but I didn't want to compromise the factory ride when empty. The airlift's are very good, you have way more options for levelling whatever load sits in the back. Just my 2 cents.
 
#11 ·
I have the same truck and tow a 6000 lb trailer as well with a 700 lb tongue weight. I have a weight distribution hitch as well (properly set up) and i get a little squat in the rear too. I think it drops 2 inches and will drop over 3 without the weight distribution bars on. I have the timbren bump stops on order. I friend with a F250 who tows a dump trailer which gets close to 15,000 lbs every once in a while and he swears by them. They are cheap and easy to install. I agree with the air ride systems....more stuff to break.
 
#12 ·
Timbren



Sounds like we have the same setup. We tow a Jayco 31 BHS and just get enough squat where we notice.

We also use a WDH and without it we wouldn't think of going anywhere without it.

Ait systems..maybe great but I know I'll get tired of inflating them manually and quit using them...
 
#14 ·
Aftermarket coils
Coil over shocks
Airbags

Just FYI, there are airbags such as airlift 1000 or firestone (don't know the kit name) that just slip in the coil springs and are super easy to install and use. Not like the complete add on system. I have the airlift and love them. I towed about 6000 lb recently and the truck didn't squat a hair. I also had about 1000 lb in the bed and my truck is lowered.

My dad has coilover's on his 3rd gen ram, he loves them too but they lifted the rear of his truck a lot. I don't like the rake.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I lowered the rear of my truck to level it. I didn't like the raked look how the back sat high and the front low. After doing so I cut my payload from around 1,700lb stock(don't recall exactly the number but it was around there) to about 1,000lb. If I went much above 1,000lb it'd be at the bump stops. Like I said in my post above I recently towed almost 6,000lb with another 1,000lb in the bed and the truck was level.

Not trying to talk you into air bags, there are many options, but just giving you an FYI that there is a very simple air bag setup for these rams with coil springs in the rear. I like the air bags because you don't have to jack up the rear of the truck to where it looks awful.

I paid something under $100 for the whole air bag setup. I bought a cheapo (probably around $20) bicycle air pump on amazon that is hand held, very small(the type you strap to a bicycle so you can pump up the tire in an emergency). It's maybe 12" long at the most. I leave it in the truck and when I need to pump up the psi in the air bags it only takes about 30-60 seconds to do with the bicycle pump. Way better than hundreds of dollars for an on board air system. Not quite as convenient but better for me.
 
#17 ·
Funny how you mentioned lowered, I actually considered that route first and was about ready to purchase the TufTruck rear leveling coil springs. I think it was a TTC-1210L for that part number. But I decided to go with the Bilsteins instead. I know there is a thread here on some owners who have pics with these lowering level springs. They look good too. Great luck on your decision MarineRecon and post pics of before and after for us anxiously waiting.
 
#18 ·
I lowered My truck also. 2" out of the rear. Makes the truck look WAY clean and just looks right IMO. I used the McGaughy's springs.

I also got the firestone air bags for the rears. Now when I tow big I just load everything and use a tape measure and a portable plug in pump to relift my truck to level. I got it plumbed so the shrader valve is right next to my 7 way pin location. very simple,very cheap, dump the air for stock ride air up and tow big...best of both worlds.....:smileup:
 
#20 ·
Really great ideas




One of the reasons I like this forum is that members provide great ideas without the typical "you're and idiot" type messages I've seen elsewhere. We are photographers that travel a lot for work, up to 35 weeks a year, and this trailer has been wonderful.

We downsized from a Freightliner Sport Chassis truck and 45' gooseneck horse trailer..just didn't need it.

After we get above freezing here in the north…we are in Southwestern Wisconsin where the high for Monday is supposed to be minus 5, yes the high. I'm not opposed to trying anything but I want to get the best information I can and utilize it. This forum provides that…Thank you.

I've been buying parts from AutoAnything. Been impressed with their service. Other suggestions welcomed.
 
#22 ·
Timbrens or different coils are the best bet to help with the sag I feel. One thing that is never mentioned with the bags- if you use them to level the truck further than the distribution hitch bars already do, then you are actually fighting the bars and they aren't doing their job properly. The bags (IMHO) should be a supplement to aid in the porpoising of the rig, not to level further than the WDH bars do. Setting the hitch up before or after inflating the bags means little. If a bag deflates, then your bars aren't set properly.

I am a minimalist though, so this is just my opinion- not gospel. I had squat in my F150 (about 2 inches after the bars were setup) so I added a leaf, then found that it didn't squat enough and it was a miserable, rigid ride.
 
#23 ·
I'm not sure what your trying to say. The air bags do not fight the hitch in any way. The best thing to do is scale the front hitch for weight. get it around 300-500lbs. once you have the weight ,air the bags to level, done .... If its so bad why do the new air sus trucks do this automaticly?:smileup:
 
#24 · (Edited)
I didn't word it correctly. Sorry. If you set the WDH up optimal, then inflate the bags to pull (lift) more sag out, the WDH settings are no longer optimal (tension on the bars) so would have to be reset since the bags are taking some of the load that the tongue would naturally be transferring to the springs and across the axles. If, by some off chance you happen to lose a bag and the WDH is set up accounting for 2 bags, then you suddenly have 1 side with potentially more tension on a bar than the other due to the decreased load ability of the spring without the bag.

I am not saying I am right, but this is what our towing gurus at work taught me years ago, and it makes sense- so I followed the advice, and you can bet a set of Airrides will be installed before I hook up this spring. Only use bags to actually level when you're not using a WDH. If using a WDH, only use the bags to take the bounce out. With the full air ride suspension, that's a different game since that IS the primary suspension rather than a supplemental device. Granted I haven't tried this with the coil suspension yet- only leaf, so maybe the Ram will make me a liar ;)

If I am completely wrong though, I am open to correction. It's the best way to learn :)
 
#26 ·
Can't argue that. But the big boys don't use WDH that can induce a nasty sway if one bar is torqued higher than the other.

Anyways, I'll concede this. My way of thinking may be wrong. I don't want to drag the topic too far off. Just thought I would add it as food for thought.
 
#30 ·
I've used extra leafs, coil over shocks, extra capacity replacement springs, spacers, on various vehicles over the years.

The only thing to date that I have found better then the others is timbrens. I've used timbrens on my vehicles since 2006. They are there when I need them (weight in/on truck) and not there when I don't (still on truck but no weight in/on truck).

Never have to add air or reduce air. Never have to worry about a bag failing while towing. Never have to worry how long they are going to last and have to be replaced, especially since I drive gravel roads at times or in back country jamming a stick into the bag. Just crawled under my 2009 Dodge Cummins the other day to put the emission crap back on so I can trade the truck in. Guess what I found, a stick jammed through the seal on the transmission tail seal.

Timbrens are not the absolute best solution, a truck with the correct carrying capacity for the job is. Unloaded the truck rides normal. Couple of extra hundred pounds in the back will produce a little worse ride, the timbrens jounce off the axle. Load the truck with a few more pounds and it rides like a truck properly equipped to handle the weight your putting on it.
 
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