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How-To: Add Factory Fog Lights

70K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  Jazzlycks 
#1 ·
NOTE: I take no responsibility if you do this modification and screw something up. I can't guarantee that all trucks will come with the fog light relays, fuse, and wiring. Before starting, make sure yours does.



When I bought my truck it did not have the factory fog light option. It did however, come with the 2x factory fog light relay's and the 1x 15A factory fog light fuse installed.

After doing a lot of reading on the subject, I learned that the factory fog light switch wiring harness would plug in by the steering column and work like the factory setup. This however, was not the case. The factory fog light switch wiring harness was ran into the rest of the dash harness and went out into the power distribution box under the hood.

After finding a local salvage yard (Jones Auto in Orleans, IN) that had a '96 and a '97 Ram Sport, I finally had all the parts I needed to do the complete swap.

Parts Needed off Wrecked Truck: ($85)*
2x - Fog Light
2x - Fog Light Bracket
4x - Fog Light Bracket Bolts
1x - Fog Light Wiring Harness (The one behind the bumper that T's to the lights)
1x - Fog Light Switch
1x - Fog Light Switch Pig Tail (with as much wire as possible)
2x - Bumper Inserts
* Complete parts list located at end of write-up.


After getting the parts I needed off the wrecked truck, I then proceeded to the local O'Reilly Auto Parts to pick up parts that I needed that could have been damaged.

Parts Needed From Parts House: ($20)*
2x - Fog Light Bulbs
* Complete parts list located at end of write-up.


All the other miscellaneous parts I needed, I already had. This included wiring butt connectors, electrical tape, and wire loom.

To install the factory fog lights, it still is a simple installation. There are a few things that need to be done first before the actual dash switch install.

First, make sure that you have the 2x factory fog light relays located in the under hood power distribution box. The 2x pictures below show the location of the relay's and the fuse.





The next step is to make sure that you have the wiring harness needed under the radiator core support to plug in the factory fog light T wiring harness. The plug is located under the core support, more to the driver side of the truck as seen in the picture below.




Next, remove the 2x bolts holding the under hood power distribution box to the inner fender. They are a 10mm bolt. Once the box is removed from the inner fender, use a small flat screw driver to remove the lower portion of the box that covers the wire connections. When this lower portion is off, it will look like the picture below.




Once the box is laid over, locate the LB (Light Blue) wire and the BR/WT (Brown w/ White Stripe) wire that goes into Fog Light Relay #2. These are the only 2 wires that you will need to run wires from to the factory fog light switch in the dash.


Now, with most of the under hood work done, lets continue inside the cab.


Remove the radio/instrument cluster bezel by removing the 2x Phillip screws holding the cup holder assembly in and the 2x Phillip screws holding the ash tray assembly in. Once this bezel is out of your way, remove the 3x Phillip screws holding the OD button and bland cover in. Once this is completed, you should be seeing the same as in the pictures below.





Now that this is done, remove the lower dash piece from under the steering column (5x Phillip screws). This will help you get the 2x wires to the power distribution box under the hood.




Now route 2x 18-20AWG wire from the location of the factory fog light switch to the power distribution box. Be sure to either run different color wire, or label each end of each wire so you are sure which wire you are hooking up where. I set up a ladder and used it as my wire spool for ease of spooling the wire.




Now that you have the wire at the power distribution box, lets hook the wires up under there.

Cut the LB (Light Blue) wire. Using red butt-connectors, connect 1x of the wires you just ran to one side of the LB (Light Blue) wire. Connect the other end of the butt-connector to the other side of the LB (Light Blue) wire.

Cut the BR/WT (Brown w/ White stripe) wire. Using red butt-connectors, connect the 2nd wire you ran to the BR/WT (Brown w/ White stripe) wire that goes into the Fog Light #2 relay leaving the other side of the BR/WT wire unconnected.

Re-assemble the lower portion of the power distribution block and re-install the power distribution block to the inner fender with the 10mm bolts.


Now back inside the truck.


With the 2x wires you ran, connect the wire for the LB (Light Blue) wire to the LB (Light Blue) wire on the fog light switch pig tail using a red butt-connector. Then connect the other wire to the BR/WT (Brown w/ White stripe) wire in the fog light switch wiring pig tail.




The next step is to connect the O (Orange) wire to the O (Orange) wire coming off the OD (Over Drive) selector switch. This is the wire that will activate the dash light inside the fog light switch when you turn on the parking lamps or the head lights. To do this, cut the O (Orange) wire. Using a red butt-connector, connect the O (Orange) wire from the fog light switch pig tail to one side of the OD (Over Drive) button wiring. Then connect the other end of the butt-connector to the other side of the OD (Over Drive) wiring O (Orange) wire.

The last step in wiring involves hooking up the 2x BR/O (Brown w/ Orange stripe) wires to a ground. I used the radio ground and connected both of them by cutting the ground wire and splicing them in with a blue butt-connector.


Now plug in the OD (Over Drive) button and the fog light button into their respective plugs. Turn on your parking lights and make sure that the dash light portion of the fog light switch works. Depress the fog light switch to verify that the indicator light works as well.




If there is a problem, now is the time to check your wiring before buttoning everything back up.

If your fog light switch works as it is supposed to, you can re-install the lower dash portion (5x Phillip screws) and the radio/instrument cluster bezel (4x Phillip screws).


Now lets install the fog lights.


This is the time when an extra set of hands is good.

Remove the front bumper from the truck. There are 1x 11/16" bolt that holds the side angle brace of the bumper to the frame on each side. There are also 3x 11/16" bolts that hold the bumper to the frame horns on each side.

You will also have to unplug the horns and remove the 3/8" bolt that holds a ground wire to the driver side angle bracket.

With the bumper off, you now have 2 choices on how you will install the fog lights. You can either cut the current bumper inserts with a 4" hold saw or you can replace your bumper inserts with the bumper inserts for the fog lights.

Remove the black upper off the bumper by pushing the plastic push pins back through the bumper. There is also 1x 3/8" bolt on each end of the black upper plastic.

With the black plastic out of the way, install the fog lights on their proper side. They are marked for the L (Driver) and R (Passenger) sides.

With the fog lights installed, reinstall the bumper. Be sure to plug the horns back in and reconnect the ground wire to the driver side angle bracket.


Now that this is done, you can install the fog light bulbs and run the fog light wiring harness to each light.

Plug the wiring harness into the connector under the core support and route the fog light plugs to each fog light. The longer side of the wiring harness goes to the passenger side fog light.


 
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#2 ·
Now test out your fog lights. Make sure they go off when you select the high beam portion of your headlights.


The last step is to adjust the height of the fog lights. It is best to do this when it is dark outside.

Pull your truck about 10'-15' from a wall (garage door) and turn the fog lights on. You want the fog lights to be hitting the wall about 16-18" above the ground from this distance. This will allow the fog lights to fill the void that the low beams leave.

If they do not hit at roughly this height, then you can adjust them up and down with the adjuster screws on the back of the fog lights. To access these adjuster screws, raise your hood and look behind the bumper.


Enjoy!


Before:





After:








Parts List:
2x - Fog Light
2x - Fog Light Bracket
4x - Fog Light Bracket Bolts
1x - Fog Light Wiring Harness (The one behind the bumper that T's to the lights)
1x - Fog Light Switch
1x - Fog Light Switch Pig Tail (with as much wire as possible)
2x - Bumper Inserts
2x - Fog Light Bulbs
4x - Red Butt-Connector
2x - Blue Butt-Connector


Tool List:
- 1/2" Drive Ratchet
- 11/16", 1/2" Drive Socket
- 1/4" Drive Ratchet
- 3/8", 1/4" Drive Socket
- 10mm, 1/4" Drive Socket
- Phillip Screw Driver
- Flat Screw Driver, small
 
#22 ·
Now test out your fog lights. Make sure they go off when you select the high beam portion of your headlights.


The last step is to adjust the height of the fog lights. It is best to do this when it is dark outside.

Pull your truck about 10'-15' from a wall (garage door) and turn the fog lights on. You want the fog lights to be hitting the wall about 16-18" above the ground from this distance. This will allow the fog lights to fill the void that the low beams leave.

If they do not hit at roughly this height, then you can adjust them up and down with the adjuster screws on the back of the fog lights. To access these adjuster screws, raise your hood and look behind the bumper.


Enjoy!


Before:





After:








Parts List:
2x - Fog Light
2x - Fog Light Bracket
4x - Fog Light Bracket Bolts
1x - Fog Light Wiring Harness (The one behind the bumper that T's to the lights)
1x - Fog Light Switch
1x - Fog Light Switch Pig Tail (with as much wire as possible)
2x - Bumper Inserts
2x - Fog Light Bulbs
4x - Red Butt-Connector
2x - Blue Butt-Connector


Tool List:
  • 1/2" Drive Ratchet
  • 11/16", 1/2" Drive Socket
  • 1/4" Drive Ratchet
  • 3/8", 1/4" Drive Socket
  • 10mm, 1/4" Drive Socket
  • Phillip Screw Driver
  • Flat Screw Driver, small
Any chance you can update your photolinks? The current links are dead.

 
#3 ·
nice write up the color are a bit different with the newer models but ya that nice writeup
 
#5 · (Edited)
The switch connector is already there?

I don't have foglights as a factory option. But I do have the two relays and the 15amp fuse in the main fuse box under the hood and the connectors under the radiator.






,

On the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel next to the Overdrive Off switch there is a blank/delete "button"/extrusion...in other words no actual fog light switch...then the pigtail/connector for the dash foglight switch should be taped back and in the dash between the cup holder and the heat/AC controls for 1996 Ram 1500 5.9L and others. If the connector is not in the dash then where do the wires go that mjonesjr cut at the #2 relay LB (Light Blue) wire and the BR/WT brown w/ White Stripe) under the fuse box? Maybe some trucks have a special headlight switch (5 position) or the LB (Light Blue) wire and the BR/WT brown w/ White Stripe) under the fuse box go to another connector...but they have to go somewhere in the cab...so I still don't get it...why do you have to monkey with the main fuse box if the wires and the relays are there and the LB (Light Blue) wire and the BR/WT (brown w/ White Stripe) exit the main in a harness that goes back into the cab. Why not find them in the cab?
It just doesn't make sense to me that the factory would put the two relays and the fuse in the main box and not make it "super easy" for the "stealership" to rake in extra cash with a no-brainer fog light install. Every factory authorized "stealership" option I've ever seen is set up this way. In conclusion...if the relays are there...and the fuse is there...and the blank on the dash is there...the connectors are lurking somewhere...keep digging!
Note: Just went out to the truck...looked under the front bumper at the headlight wiring harness...there are two open connectors coming out of that harness, each slightly different, about two feet apart left and right of center...one has two light blue wires coming out of the back and the other has two black wires coming out of the back...I have'nt traced them down yet...but I bet the blue is hot when the foglight switch is on and the black is ground...Before I die I'm gonna figure this out...this whole damn thing amounts to 50 cents worth of nothing...it's all there except the $2 switch and a couple of $2 bulbs...bullshite dodge brackets/bezels and cans notwithstanding. I'll eat my words if I can't find that light blue and brown/white switch connector under the dash somewhere. It's got to be a slightly rectangular coupler with 4 wires in it: light blue, white w/ brown stripe, orange, and ? (probably black...ground).



 
#7 ·
C133 Connector

The main wiring harness connector (c133) located inside the cab has the brown/white wire on pin #11 and light blue wire on pin #24. You can run wiring to your switch from this point if you don't want to mess with the power distribution box under the hood. Trucks that came prewired for fogs had the wiring wrapped into the dash harness from this point. If you have the relays and fuse in place in the distribution box, grounding the brown/white wire on pin #11 will trip relay #2 in the power distribution box and turn the fog lights on. The light blue wire on pin #24 will have 12V+ only when the fog lights are on, this is used to light the indicator lamp in the factory switch to show that the fog lights are on.
 
#9 ·
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=106169&page=2

i just got my fog lights. i will begin the install process today with trimming the plastic bezel. anybody who wants to see pictures once im done just click on the link. i will try to post pictures by this weekend. the foglights are so sick. they are halo projector foglights.

also for anybody wanting an oem install package, i found one. 8220 5656 that is the oem part number. anybody wanting original fog lights might want to get this.


also the size of the oem bolts are .312-18x.875 carriage bolts. i had a hard time getting this info. it is a 5/16in diameter bolt. it is 7/8in in length. it is 18mm thread.
 
#13 ·
Frustrated

Hi, I realize this has been dead for quite some time now but I'm gonna seek some input anyway. I decided to install a pair of fog lights after my headlight upgrade, the truck did not come with them. The wire under the radiator was there but I could not find the plug in the dash. I picked up the T-Harness, relays and a switch at the junkyard, I followed the instructions I found here written by mjonesjr. I was a little confused about tapping into the blue wire in the power distribution box.. It sounds like there should be a cut off end of the BR/WT but not the blue?? Hooked everything up inside the cab and I have no indicator light or fog lights but when I push the button the relay does click. I have power on the blue when button is pushed. The BR/WT barely lights my test light but there is power... I have nothing going to the plug under the radiator. I am lost! I cant figure out why the relay is activated but i have no power to the fogs nor do I have a functioning indicator light. I'm thinking the switch must be good or the relay would not click, Maybe I'm wrong? Thank you for any input anyone could contribute!
 
#16 ·
Welcome to the Ram Forum " Z " Family Bob95065 :wavey:

The original posters last time on line was 10-24-2014 05:55 PM :wow:

Might want to take the sites user friendly ' Search ' feature
for a spin OR post up what your looking for in the thread below
just click on the link ;)

Custom Dodge Ram Interior and Exterior Lighting;
http://www.ramforumz.com/forumdisplay.php?f=78
 
#17 ·
This is great. I still haven't got around to doing mine crashed the truck. Almost all fixed. I'm abandoning the idea of using factory wireing because the plug Is missing under the dash. Going to run my own wires into cab still using the factory switch but by passing every thing else. I put my own fuse box under the hood off the power distribution box. Now adding stuff is easy.
 
#19 ·
If you host your pics to the Ramforumz gallery instead of a 3rd party site then they will never be removed from a tgread due to tye host site reformatting:smileup:

Click the Gallery tab at the top of the page
 
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