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2010 Dodge Ram Alpine RER stereo system upgrade / wiring harness diagrams

63K views 49 replies 17 participants last post by  chadzilla500 
#1 ·
I am starting this post to help others trying who are trying to upgrade their factory 10 speaker Alpine RER system, but keep the factory deck.

After doing TONS of research on this horrible sounding (in my opinion) stereo system. I decided to upgrade.

I had originally tried to add just a Bazooka BTA8100 tube via the high level inputs taken from the sub (it sounded like crap) I then upgraded the speakers (Boston pro50SE's in the front and Focal 690CV's in the rear) That mod actually made a huge difference in sound. If you only wanted to upgrade your dash/door speakers and didn't really care about bass, some nice 6x9s and 3.5s it would be well worth it.

For me though...this was not enough. It still lacked bass and I couldn't use the tweeters in my component speakers unless I wanted to put them in the dash where the 3.5" speakers were. Ive read that several people have tried that and it sounded crappy and echoed off the windshield. TIME TO UPGRADE AGAIN!

Ordered a Peripheral PCH8 summing/line output converter and an Alpine PDX-5 amplifier. **I had originally planned on using the PDX's 5th channel (300w) to run two 12" subs in a custom box, but after hearing how the factory sub sounded with some nuts behind it and the 8" Bazooka, I felt it was more than enough bass (plus it doesn't really take up any space and I get to keep the floor storage compartments.)
If i had to do it over again I probably would have bought an Alpine PDX-4.150 and ran two sets of Boston Acoustics components Pro60SE's for the rear and Pro50SE's for the front in conjunction with a Bazooka BTA8250D**

Already had these installed.

3. Boston Acoustics Pro50SE 5.25" Component speakers. (front)
4. Focal 690 CV 6x9 speakers (rear)
5. Bazooka BTA8100 amplified bass tube.

I work at a salvage yard and we had a 2009 Ram crew 1500 with the Alpine RER system that came in wrecked in the front. I was lucky enough to be able to dissect and check the polarities on ALL the speakers/amp so I didn't have to tear my truck apart.

Mounting the speakers in the rear doors, I needed 1/2" spacers for the 6x9s and in the front doors mounted the 1" tweeters in the upper door trim panel triangle in the front doors.

I left the headliner speakers and the center dash speaker stock. Took the LH and RH dash speaker leads, all four door speakers leads and sub leads (coming OUT of the factory amp) and ran them into the PCH8.

High level (speaker wires) input of the PCH8:
channel 1 was the rear door speakers (which were the closest to full range frequencies that I could tell)
channel 2 was the front door speakers (low to mid frequencies only)
channel 3 was the dash LH and RH (high frequencies)
channel 4 was the subs LH and RH (low frequencies)

Low level (RCA's) output of the PCH8:
channel 1 went to the PDX5 front high pass
channel 2 went to the bazooka low level inputs.
channel 3 went to the PDX5 rear high pass
channel 4 went to the PDX5 sub channel (I used this channel for the factory sub because the PCH8 has a remote level control on it which is nice for controlling the bass, and the Bazooka already had its own remote level control)

Just for now I left the summing levels at 50% gain until I can get someone to help me professionally tune it in.

Let me just tell you, it sounds incredible! Even better than I had hoped for. :)

I hope this helps anyone out there looking to do this. I will post the wiring colors/polarities and photos if anyone is interested.

There are 2 plugs that come out of the "alpine" amp (even though it says Chrysler right on it) One is a 22 pin white plug and the other is a 16 pin black plug.

On the 22 pin connector



left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 large black wire with orange stripe (assumed ground for the amp)
pin 2 white with gray stripe (bus input)
pin 3 white with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 4 not used
pin 5 not used
pin 6 green with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 7 green with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 8 gray with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 9 gray with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 10 not used
pin 11 not used
pin 12 not used
pin 13 not used
pin 14 gray with light green stripe (RH dash speaker +)
pin 15 gray with dark green stripe (RH dash speaker -)
pin 16 gray with yellow stripe (LH dash speaker +)
pin 17 gray with no stripe (LH dash speaker -)
pin 18 green with brown stripe (LH headliner speaker -)
pin 19 green with blue stripe (LH headliner speaker +)
pin 20 gray with white stripe (sub -)
pin 21 green with white stripe (sub +)
pin 22 large yellow wire with red stripe (assumed power for the amp)


On the 16 pin connector



left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 gray with purple stripe (LH front door -)
pin 2 gray with yellow stripe (LH front door +)
pin 3 green with purple stripe (RH front door -)
pin 4 green with yellow stripe (RH front door +)
pin 5 green with brown stripe (sub +)
pin 6 gray with brown stripe (sub -)
pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)
pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)
pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)
pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)
pin 11 gray with no stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity...I left it stock)
pin 12 gray with orange stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity.. I left it stock)
pin 13 yellow with gray stripe (RH headliner +)
pin 14 green with no stripe (RH headliner -)
pin 15 not used
pin 16 not used

pic of the PCH8 installed behind the dash.



pic of the alpine PDX-5 amp installed under drivers seat.



pic of the factory amp (to the left of the steering column)



pic of the new wire harness.



pic of the focal 6x9 in the rear door.

 
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#30 ·
For the remote input on the lc6 i was going to try the ignition wire,does anyone know what color the ignition wire is?Unless i tap into some other wire thats better?

And does anyone know why there is 4 wires for the factory sub?should i just tie them together +-+,- to -......for the lc6
 
#31 · (Edited)
And does anyone know why there is 4 wires for the factory sub?should i just tie them together +-+,- to -......for the lc6
Factory sub uses a dual voice coil. 2ohm +2 ohm. Tie them together and you risk burning up the amp.

Help me out here...
Can you post the complete list of everything you are installing?
I can help out, but I need to know exactly what you are trying to get done before wednesday.
 
#32 · (Edited)
.Power,can i just tap into the factory amp harness for power or should i run power from the battery to the audiocontrol? Ground also or just make my own ground?
I plan on tapping into the amp power for my 12v for the lc6i. I will also give the lc6i its own chassis ground.

Where are you mounting the lc6?

As for the remote, it has built in circuitry(GTO) to detect turn on once the speakers get a signal. I'd rather have a true turn on, but I haven't figured that out yet.

BTW, I haven't started on mine because I'm sic as a damn dog right now....dehydrated and gotta stay close to the bathroom....
 
#33 · (Edited)
Red, how did the install go?
Lc6(i) install....
Also installing under the radio.
I will be tapping into the same 12v that the factory amp uses(Red/Yellow also has two 30amp fuses inline).
I will be using the pink/Grey from ignition accessory wire for the Remote turn on(15A fuse inline).
Also plan on using chassis ground.
I've got all the wiring ready, now I just have to pull it all apart and get started.

Let me know how it turned out and if you have any advice on the install....and thanks again for setting me straight on the stuff we discussed. lol
 
#36 ·
Not yet, it looks like this weekend. We will see. I Really did a dick-job on my harness. I've got everything pulled apart--for 3 days now. I will have it completed this weekend. Its been 108 here in OKlahoma, just havent felt the urge to get it knocked out.

I hope all is well with your surgery.
 
#37 ·
Lie2me I feel you. I've been in OKC since July 26 from Tucson for work. Found cheap priced Kicker DS25 and DS693's. Dropped the 6x9's in this afternoon (Sunday) and didn't have the will to do the front doors. No shade and in the hotel parking lot. Big improvement on the higher end freqs but just not sure about the lower end. Stumbled on this forum bored in my hotel room and was inspired.
 
#40 ·
I've all but given up on this project. I am the dumb@ZZ that cut the factory wiring harness rediculously short, so I've spent the little time I have to work on repairing my dumbness. I'm going to finish up what I have done and see how it works, if it don't work like I want it to, I'm going to have an RBZ for sale. If its not to standard by Friday at noon, I'm yanking everything out.
 
#41 ·
DAMN,I did that too on my front door wires coming out of the harness......i feel your pain,it was not fun to fix,good luck.

If it comes down to it im pretty sure you can buy that harness through dodge and just rewire it back in......this is what i am thinking about doing also,just to make it look a lil bit cleaner,next time im under the dash i will have to take a pic...lol
 
#42 ·
I'm done. I just pulled the RBZ out and will be selling it and the new LC6i. I feel stupid for hacking the factory harness up(I knew better and did it anyway). I just do not have the patience to rebuild the two harnesses. I know I will kick myself later because I really like the big ass buttons on the factory headunit. At least I have a solid aftermarket option to install in its place.
 
#45 ·
Stereo Upgrade

Hey folks,

After reading this forum I was pumped to upgrade my stock system with something a little better. After further reading and the challenges that some have had with the wiring harness, and concerns of the sound quality using the AudioControl's LC8i or something similar. I have decided to change course a little bit. I was almost going to follow these instructions word for word, but have changed my mind. Let me know your thoughts.

I am thinking of doing the following:

Keep existing Factory Head unit, and abandon all factory speakers excluding the Sub for now. I'm going to have the local car audio installers run all new wires to the front,rear doors, and sub. Keep the existing speakers in the dash, but not use them. This will allow me to put back the factory stereo when I sell the truck

I have purchased a Audison Bit One Sound processor to integrate to the factory head unit. I have also purchased the Alpine PDX5 amp. The plan is to run the front and rear doors off the 4chanls and use the 5th for the Sub. I was hoping to leave the factory sub stock for now until my bank account says I can upgrade it. Even then I would just like to replace the sub, and keep the housing stock, but add some reinforcement like sound Matt or something to stop it from rattling around.

I am now looking to purchase the door speakers and looking for suggestions.

Currently looking at Boston Acoustics SR60 6.5 for both the front and back. With the plan to mount the tweeter in the front door pillar, and not really sure where on the back door. The local car audio place will make custom spacers mounting brackets from MDF to make the speakers fit. I don't plan on adding any other sound Matt

Or Focal Polyglass 130Vr for the front, and then something cheaper for the back, which Im not sure of what.

Down the road I would like to upgrade sub to a 8" Focal 21v2.

Any suggestions on speakers? Or other install tips would be appreciated. and or am I crazy for abandoning the front speakers in the Dash

Thanks
 
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