Also, the JL Audio harness XD-CLRAIC2-SW was used to connect to the stock sub harness providing an RCA signal to the amplifier. This harness is detailed here:
Now that all of that is out of the way, let's get to the good stuff!
I did not follow the JL Audio instructions which asks you to drill through the floor and bolt the sub box down. Instead, I fashioned a black bracket similar to the stock sub enclosure and bolted the JL box down in the exact same location.
The wiring was uneventful as the plastic block off plate beside the brake master cylinder made for an extremely easy location to run the line. I hate to see audio wiring in the engine bay, or anywhere for that matter, so everything was loomed identical to stock and hidden.
The amplifier was mounted on the non-sub side of the cargo area. All wiring was run under the carpet and amp and then connected. The HD-RLC was mounted under the steering wheel and to the left. Easy to get to and adjust and not highly visible.
Results: Wow! Absolutely breathtaking bass response and finally, the entire system rocks! This sub setup can play everything from Rap to Orchestra and sound like it's perfectly suited to all formats. I couldn't be happier!
This is the second stage in the conversion of the stock Alpine speakers in my 2011 Ram CC Sport to JL Audio.
Also, the JL Audio harness XD-CLRAIC2-SW was used to connect to the stock sub harness providing an RCA signal to the amplifier. This harness is detailed here:
ironchef...the install looks great! definitely think of going in the same direction.
ram, this is the sub used (noted at the beginning of his post: The subwoofer used to replace the stock Alpine 8" subwoofer is the JL Audio SB-D-QDRAM/10w3v3. For more details, go here:
I recently put a set of subs beneath my seat also, but when people sit in the back they can feel the grills under them. Are you running into the same problem? If so, do you know how to fix it.
im running to 10" w3s on an mb quart 500.1. i had 2 w1v2s, not loud enough. w3s are ok. doing a custom box with 2 JL Audio 13TW5-3s and a class d 1000w jl amp. gonna be redonkulous. got a wicked deal $450 a sub and 400 for the amp. gonna raise the bench seat in the back to get more space
im looking to go this route (alpine to jl sub) all i want to do it upgrade the sub for more bass but in this case it looks like im going to have to cut the wire harness at the sub and splice in the rca conectors for the amp what is the wire polarities on a 2012 ram quad..i took the stock sub out to look there is four wires green and grey whith black stripe / green and grey with white stripe any info would be helpful thanks
Thanks for the info. I've got the same fact. system and was a bit let down when I first heard it. Bass is good on some music, pretty average on others. I might try what you've done now.
I wouldnt mind some info myself..Just a lil more bang from the sub would be nice cause i listen to alot of glam rock/hair bands on sirius and its not to to bad there but on the electronic shit its fine..I have 2 infinity 6x9(few yrs old but new) that i have never used and might install them in the back door,hell i have no idea how they sound either..No clue where stock sub is either on my sport..I have the storage bins under passenger seats so no clue as to its location..
I'm looking for a lil more clarity on your install.
Does your amp merely drive your sub only & door speakers are run as they come from factory?
Also, you made no mention of using a line out converter. Was this not required?
I added a bare wire/RCA harness. There are four wires going to the stock sub, a left and a right feed. So one pair translates to one single RCA. Both pairs equates to two RCA's. then I just plugged these RCA's into my amplifier that was designed for this application.
Why would there be a left and right feed going to the sub? The amp is not in the sub. The OEM Alpine amp should be mixing the left and right feed and sending one signal to the sub.
It makes sense that you could trick your aftermarket amp by feeding it one pair as a left feed and the other as a right feed.
As for the harness, I bought the same connector the factory uses and I'm going to make a harness that plugs into the truck and has RCA connectors on the other end.
Sorry for the confusion. What I meant by right and left feed was for the RCA, not the sub. The factory amp, not located in the sub, send two pairs of outputs to the single, dual voice coil sub.
Like you, I also sourced a stock harness connector and then wired it into a pair of RCA's.
Exactly. I disconnected the entire factory sub enclosure and unhooked the wire harness which is under the enclosure. I then connected my new harness and solder/heatshrunk the new RCA ends.
i've tried access this page but the pics are not showing up. do you happen to have those pics and can you upload them again. either you or ironchef? i would greatly appreciate it.
What turns the amp on and off? Remote wire? Or does this amp turn on and off through the RCA's? Another question is there is no line level converter. Isnt the feed coming from your connector you made an amplified signal?
I still need to get a signal from the CANbus to control the amp. Various companies make such adapters.
JL amps allow for speaker level inputs, so this should be OK. I could get a line level input from the back of the OEM amp, but that would be more work.