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Alpine to JL Audio- Dash, Center and Headliner Speakers

71K views 62 replies 32 participants last post by  Daws5.7 
#1 ·
This is the first stage in the conversion of the stock Alpine speakers in my 2011 Ram CC Sport to JL Audio.

The goal for me is to increase clarity, improve the soundstage and reduce the overly mid bass oriented stock sound system.

The speakers I chose to replace the stock Alpine 3.5" dash and center channel speakers are JL Audio C2-350x speakers. For more details, go here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/s_136C2350X/JL-Audio-C2-350x.html?tp=96&nvpair=FFBrand|JL+Audio

I used the Crutchfield/Metra harness #12071039 so there would be no need to hack into the stock wiring. Just plug and play and move on with your life! The harness can be found here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12071039/Mazda-Speaker-Harnesses.html?tp=3097

The dash and center channel speakers are easy to remove. First, gently pry up on the front of each grill to remove the cover. Next, use a 7mm socket and small ratchet to remove the two bolts holding each speaker in place. On the center channel grill, you will need to unplug the sensor built into the grill if so equipped. Installation is as simple as clicking in the new harness and performing the reverse of the aforementioned.

However, in an effort to provide higher frequencies to the front door effort to improve the soundstage, I wired in a signal line from the dash speakers and ran that wire to the door area. I'll use this later in stage two to be the signal line for a crossover for the tweeter separates. More on that later....

Next up was the headliner speakers. Gently pry on a corner of the grill and then carefully remove. It's held in place by four clips and is a little stubborn to remove so be patient. With the grill out of the way, you'll find a little 2.5" speaker and a special mounting bucket. Remove the speaker bolts with a Torx 20 driver. Once removed, I chose to use JL Audio VR-075CT for its silk dome tweeter and position adjustable mounting bucket. This is no longer for sale but information on them can be found here:

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=248

Since the 0.75" tweeter was far too small to mount into the headliner bucket, I fashioned a tweeter pod from a 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey to fill the gap and angle the tweeter accordingly. See photo for details. Please note that this tweeter uses a passive, in line crossover which is between the harness and the speaker to filter the undesired frequencies. Also, you can use the same harness as above simplify hookup.

Results- All I can say is wow. I had to readjust the EQ settings and am now completely flat on the midbass and treble settings with improved sound quality. It's not breathtakingly good yet, but an improvement nonetheless. I've heard mixed reviews on the replacement of the Alpine speakers but so far, I couldn't be happier and look forward to the four door replacements next week.
 

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#5 ·
Update: As I indicated in another thread, I tested both with and without the center channel speaker. But first, a little background as to why. In my opinion, a center channel speaker is beneficial in two scenarios: Cinema/DVD audio or regular music, but in both instances the center has to have DSP to provide just a touch of spatial imaging.

The Alpine center channel though is not DSP modified, but rather a crossed over and combined signal from the left and right channels. This might be better if it was also a speaker rated at a much higher ohm resistance to reduce its volume, but instead it's the same as the dash speakers. The result is an overly loud presence that diminishes the width of the sound stage. My JL Audio C2-350x center channel speaker actually made this situation a little worse.

By removing the center channel altogether, the width of the sound now goes from door to door. Further the newly added tweeters, combined with the reflective property of the windshield, make it so there are no gaps in the sound. In other words, it's like the entire dash is like one big stage where as before, my ears would go to the dead center and stay there.
 
#30 ·
Update: As I indicated in another thread, I tested both with and without the center channel speaker. But first, a little background as to why. In my opinion, a center channel speaker is beneficial in two scenarios: Cinema/DVD audio or regular music, but in both instances the center has to have DSP to provide just a touch of spatial imaging.

The Alpine center channel though is not DSP modified, but rather a crossed over and combined signal from the left and right channels. This might be better if it was also a speaker rated at a much higher ohm resistance to reduce its volume, but instead it's the same as the dash speakers. The result is an overly loud presence that diminishes the width of the sound stage. My JL Audio C2-350x center channel speaker actually made this situation a little worse.


By removing the center channel altogether, the width of the sound now goes from door to door. Further the newly added tweeters, combined with the reflective property of the windshield, make it so there are no gaps in the sound. In other words, it's like the entire dash is like one big stage where as before, my ears would go to the dead center and stay there.
So you just removed or disconnected the center speaker entirely?

I am definitely going to copy you and put those JL dash speakers in. Nice that the grills pop right out.

Are the factory front door speakers low frequecy only? At low volume virtually no sound comes out of my front doors. At mid to high volume I do get low frequency, but no mid and no highs. Is this normal?

Overall I think this 10 speaker Alpine system in my Ram is ok at best. I was expecting a lot better sound.
 
#8 ·
For now, yes. Until I find a suitable plug/play harness that allows me to simply bypass the amplifier all together while keeping the stock head unit, I won't be adding external amplification to the full range speakers. I'm not a fan of cutting, splicing or doing any permanent changes on any vehicle.

PAC Audio almost has it. They have a harness that connects to the back of the head unit to add signal to a new amp but no return harness to connect it to all the speakers. Close!
 
#19 ·
Ironchef2011, thanks brother for this post and information on the other ones. It is so funny I was looking at the same JL Audio speakers for my 2009 Ram. I was also going to have 2 JL 10W1V2-4s under the backseat in place of the 1 factory sub. However, I was looking at installing the C2-350x in the ceiling also. I see from your picture they may not fit. I was looking at pushing all of the speakers with a JL XD700/5. Well at least that is what my installer suggested. He was looking at installing a JL LC2I to have the factory head unit push it all. If you could let me know what you think about all of this. For that matter if anyone else has any input let me know.
This all came about when I installed a pair of JL TR650-CXi and a pair of JL TR650-CSi speakers in my son's Chevy Colorado. I hooked up a JL JX360/4 to push them all. No sub as of yet because he is only 15. The sound is crazy coming from those speakers. Couldn't have his truck sound better than mine...LOL

I was uncomfortable in doing this myself to my truck even though I did it to his truck. Thanks for the confidence booster.

ChiefRam
 
#20 ·
What do you have mounted around the tweeter? or is it just the whole? do you have pics of the full install?
The tweeter itself is mounted in a tweeter pod from a 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey. This pod is then easily mounted inside the speaker baffle which resides in the headliner while allowing the tweeter to be positioned as well.
 
#21 ·
Ironchef2011, thanks brother for this post and information on the other ones. It is so funny I was looking at the same JL Audio speakers for my 2009 Ram. I was also going to have 2 JL 10W1V2-4s under the backseat in place of the 1 factory sub. However, I was looking at installing the C2-350x in the ceiling also. I see from your picture they may not fit. I was looking at pushing all of the speakers with a JL XD700/5. Well at least that is what my installer suggested. He was looking at installing a JL LC2I to have the factory head unit push it all. If you could let me know what you think about all of this. For that matter if anyone else has any input let me know.
This all came about when I installed a pair of JL TR650-CXi and a pair of JL TR650-CSi speakers in my son's Chevy Colorado. I hooked up a JL JX360/4 to push them all. No sub as of yet because he is only 15. The sound is crazy coming from those speakers. Couldn't have his truck sound better than mine...LOL

I was uncomfortable in doing this myself to my truck even though I did it to his truck. Thanks for the confidence booster.

ChiefRam
Hey Chief,
Glad I could help my friend. As for your thought of installing the 3.5" in the headliner, don't do it. They won't fit and that's not where you want sound coming from. The two most important areas in the Ram to improve IMO is the dash speakers first and then the sub. By eliminating the center and using the JL 3.5's in the left/right dash, it was a huge improvement. The door speakers weren't nearly as important and if I had it to do over again I wouldn't waste the time or money there. The sub however was a nice bonus but be sure to install the line output control knob with the amplifier. It's really nice to be able to control the bass depending on the style of music and volume. As for the number of subs, it all comes down to your music preference. But I've yet to find an installation whereby a single JL 10W3v3 wasn't able to hold its own and impress the hell out of it's owner. I simply can't say enough about the amazing combination of the small, digital JL amplifier and their enclosure/sub set. If you just did the dash, amp and sub, you'd be thrilled with the results.

And in my opinion, the speaker amplifier, door speakers, headliner speakers and converters are all a waste unless you're going to replace everything and go high end. But at volume 20-24, my system is powerful as hell and has wonderful imaging.
 
#22 ·
Thanks brother for the reply. It is sad when people try to take advantage of you when you go to get information. If the installer knew they would not fit he should have said something. He even stated that they have done that before, yeah right. Glad I checked here first before spending any money. I did the same thing with my son's truck @ coloradofan. The cool thing is I never tell them that I have been repairing medical equipment for the last 16 years in the Navy. Just want to get their recommendation for sound since they do this all the time. Thanks for people like yourself.

I looked at your sub setup and was wondering did you build the box or did you buy it? If so, where from if you do not mind me asking. Also, my music taste varies and thanks for the info about the line output control knob with the amplifier.

If I have questions when I start I will give you a holla, if you do not mind.

Thanks,
ChiefRam
 
#25 ·
This is one of the most detailed threads on the site! Very informative for all of us who need pictures! I plan on putting the JL dash speakers in later this week! I have run into an issue with the subs in the back. I recently put 2 10JLW3's in the back with an JL XD600. When I have passengers in the back they can significantly feel the speaker grill, with one comment "It feels like it is spreading my cheeks." Is there a fix for this? I've seen some reference to raising the seat, which I'm open to doing. I appreciate all of your help!
 
#26 ·
LMAO!!! "spreading my cheeks".... :LOL:
No fix for cheek issues but a company by the name of "JEGS" has some solid raisers on eBay. You should be able to just do a search on eBay.
There's Home Depot of course as well (my local one was out of stock for so long that I found some on eBay instead). There is also other threads around the forum that talk about that as well.
Good luck buddy!
 
#31 ·
Question.... Any idea of the watts to the speakers from the stock amp?

I also have a 2010 300S with the kicker system. It is a really good system...alot better than the Alpine I have in the Ram. But, the kicker system turns down the sub with increased volume. So, I added a 10in kicker in a sealed box. Not enough. Bought a 12in L3 solobaric in a ported box. Not enough. I now have a 13W7. Could not get that thing loud enough to even get noticed lol. So, I replaced my stock radio just so I could feel my sub. Also, the door/dash speakers are all crossed over. So, the best thing to do as was mentioned by Ironchef is to just replace the dash spkrs. This will brighten up the sound alot. If you have to replace the door spkrs, go with separates. Soundstream has a Pro Audio line that offers 6x9 midrange. Alot of people dump on Soundstream but I have been using them since 94. They are cheap too! This is just a suggestion. If anyone needs any advice on audio stuff I am more than happy to help out. I have totally stripped the stock system out of my 300 and replaced it 3 times. About to dig in to the RAM. Just got it last week.
 
#32 ·
I went to Crutchfield a perused the 3.5" selections. I was considering the Infinity Reference X REF-3002cfx. They were more efficient 91 db than the JL Audio speakers 83db. Then I noticed Polk Audio db351 at the same 91 db AND a 50% off deal for second set. I was thinking to replace the center speaker also and seems the only way to get 3 is to buy 2 pairs. So I was happy to see the deal. Now after reading your post about the center channel I'm thinking just a pair. When I put the speakers in the Cart it says that the original speakers are 2 ohm and that replacing them with 4 ohm speakers may reduce volume. I had put JL's and Infinity's in my cart a week or so ago and didn't get this pop-up. I'm assuming they are getting customer complaints? Suggestions?
 
#34 · (Edited)
I always got the warning when placing 4ohm speakers in my cart. The "Alpine" system speakers are all 2ohm. I assume to get more power from the amp.

I went with the Infinity Reference 3032cf model rated at 2ohm. I didn't need to take a chance that replacing my speakers could negatively affect how loud the stereo can get. I have installed them and before I removed my "centre" channel speaker, they were just as loud.
 
#35 ·
I ended up put the Infinity Reference 3032cf in the dash. Initially with the center channel playing. (if I had it to do again I would order the Kappa 32.9cf for the higher quality tweeter and power handling) There was a noticeable difference in clarity, depth, punch and brightness. I then bought Infinity Kappa 60.9cs for the front doors and 692.9i's for the back. It was quite a tranformation but did not really come together sound wise until I pulled the plug on the center channel. The stage is much better as well as clarity and depth. The 60.9 cs's made a complete transformation to the mid punch. ( I did not use the supplied crossovers because this channel already has them inline somewhere in the original system) I still need to install the tweeters from the 60.9cs's in the headliner. It's pretty straightforward just haven't had the time yet. The volume still isn't there nor the bass. I figured I'd stick to the lower ohm and higher efficiency speakers to keep as much volume as possible. I think it is a tad louder. It's funny how I took my 2000 from Infinity to an Alpine system and now my 2012 from Alpine to Infinity. If I would have had my druthers I think I would have gone with all Type R's with a PDX-9 and the IMPRINT processor. I just don't have the money or time to go all out, so i decided I'd do a piecemeal approach. I'm happy with the improvements so far. I'm doing wheels and a leveling this week so my audio dollars won't be available for a couple more months. Next will be a JBL Stealthbox, Amp and Processor. Maybe in time for Christmas???

Here's a few pics...
 

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