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Led fix!

41K views 58 replies 32 participants last post by  13LoneStarDriver 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay guys, I think i finally made a breakthrough...


For the guys having filckering/glowing/stupid LED issues... It seems that regardless of the bulb color/style/location a 100Ohm 1W resister soldered to the LED fixes any issue so far i have ran across. the only possible issue I can see affecting this would be the weird when the trucks not running they work but when the tuck is running they do.


I know i said i would never go there, but from now on it is going to be my recomendation where if you have one of the trucks that has LED issues, those are the resistors to try.


I do not know if this will work with the blinkers and the "bulb out" notification. I ran out of resistors tonight when I did my neighbors truck, Imma pick up a few more Monday afternoon and try it, but until the the answer to 921/194 style problems appears to be this little baby resistor to actually create the right load in the circuit.

I will get some pictures up in the next few days, I jsut figure there are a few people dying to know this

pictures in post #5 of the correct way it should look when soldered. Credits to Mikeski
 
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#30 ·
Okay guys...I bought a 2009 4x4 Lariet with 60k miles, I want to do the obvious things that others want to do...HID lights (which ones to use?), interior LED's (problems with LED's compatibility with truck so must use/solder resistors), blinker, brake lights, etc...it seems like it is not as simple as going on a website (which website?) and ordering bulbs...is there anything online or this forum that a person could read in regard to a certain year truck and putting in LED tail lights, blinker lights, interior lights? I am surfing all around and am driving myself crazy...what to order, what to make sure I have on hand, etc, etc...I cant be the only one, am I? Thanks, Kevin
 
#31 ·
If you buy a electronic flasher to replace the mechanical one the truck it will solve the fast flash issues I use them on turn signals as opposed to resistors. I find it a cheap easy one part install fix.
 
#37 ·
I installed projector/LED headlights and LED tail lights and 3rd brake light. I have a 2nd gen, and my blinkers flash VERY slowly. I've heard that an LED flasher relay from superbrightleds.com will fix the problem. I ordered the relay and will update the result when I get it put in.
 
#40 ·
Okay guys, I think i finally made a breakthrough...


For the guys having filckering/glowing/stupid LED issues... It seems that regardless of the bulb color/style/location a 100Ohm 1W resister soldered to the LED fixes any issue so far i have ran across. the only possible issue I can see affecting this would be the weird when the trucks not running they work but when the tuck is running they do.


I know i said i would never go there, but from now on it is going to be my recomendation where if you have one of the trucks that has LED issues, those are the resistors to try.


I do not know if this will work with the blinkers and the "bulb out" notification. I ran out of resistors tonight when I did my neighbors truck, Imma pick up a few more Monday afternoon and try it, but until the the answer to 921/194 style problems appears to be this little baby resistor to actually create the right load in the circuit.:shy2:
I have LED lights for the following ... Side marker Lights ... the dome light ... map light... inside the heater control nobs... instrument cluster... over head console... and even my cargo light... and I have no Resistors on them and the only resistors i have are on my LED Turn TIPM problem...:4-dontknow:
 
#42 ·
I have LED lights for the following ... Side marker Lights ... the dome light ... map light... inside the heater control nobs... instrument cluster... over head console... and even my cargo light... and I have no Resistors on them and the only resistors i have are on my LED Turn TIPM problem...:4-dontknow:
3rd gen wiring is different than us 4th gens, we need resistors for more LED's than 3rd Gens
 
#43 ·
i had such a nightmare with my leds in the tail lights i gave up and am running stock. what sucks is i bought some cree led with 20 smd leds on the side that are brighter then hell only because i have smoked tail lights. i used a common load resistor that you hook up to the wires but i was faced with every problem. one way the lights would work but no break light the other way only break lights would work and no running lights. then i flipped the bulb and every thing worked and i got a bulb out error and they stopped working after that so then i put the resistor on another cable since there are 3 and then they wouldnt work. would soldering in this little resistor fix my problem?
 
#45 ·
yup i did it exactly like that. i have them sitting in my garage collecting dust as of right now i think the bulbs only are meant for on/off function or something idk what the deal was.
 
#46 ·
license and reverse lights

i have a 2014 slt big horn 1500. I just installed the license plate lights, and reverse lights and cargo lights. The problem i have is with the license plate lights and the reverse. It comes up on my display when i start the truck that the license plate and reverse lights are out. Which resistor should i install to correct this problem. Thank you for your help.
Anthony
 
#47 ·
i have a 2014 slt big horn 1500. I just installed the license plate lights, and reverse lights and cargo lights. The problem i have is with the license plate lights and the reverse. It comes up on my display when i start the truck that the license plate and reverse lights are out. Which resistor should i install to correct this problem. Thank you for your help.
Anthony
You need to add a resistor to make up for the lower current that the LED's draw.
Check out the Load Equalizers / Resistors section here: http://www.autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

Page down to Load Equalizers / Resistors.

I think you will need the second one (Rated 25 watt LED Load Equalizer) It goes by amount of watts so you may need a higher one depending on what bulb you replaced.

Greg
 
#49 ·
Hmmmn... I wonder...
I added two LED cluster type lights under my tonneau cover and tied them into my cargo light wiring. They work just fine...except occasionally they don't. I first noticed that occasionally the "illuminated entry" feature did not work reliably. In other words, the cargo light would not illuminate when using the key fob.
Here's how they fail: If the truck is running with headlights on...and I turn on the cargo light using the switch by the headlight switch...the cargo light flickers one time and dies. It will be a week before the cargo light will work again. Then... If the truck is NOT running the cargo light works fine. But if I start the truck, turn the headlights on, and then request the cargo light... it flashes just momentarily...goes out for another week.
Anyone believe this has anything to do with the LED lights in parallel to the cargo light?
 
#51 ·
Hmmmn... I wonder...
I added two LED cluster type lights under my tonneau cover and tied them into my cargo light wiring. They work just fine...except occasionally they don't. I first noticed that occasionally the "illuminated entry" feature did not work reliably. In other words, the cargo light would not illuminate when using the key fob.
Here's how they fail: If the truck is running with headlights on...and I turn on the cargo light using the switch by the headlight switch...the cargo light flickers one time and dies. It will be a week before the cargo light will work again. Then... If the truck is NOT running the cargo light works fine. But if I start the truck, turn the headlights on, and then request the cargo light... it flashes just momentarily...goes out for another week.
Anyone believe this has anything to do with the LED lights in parallel to the cargo light?
Ok, Issue resolved: The TIPM thinks the circuit is shorted due to the increased electrical loads placed by the cargo bedlights. Fix: Install/Insert a relay to join the bedlights to the circuit, so that bedlights are still controlled by cargo light switch and illuminated entry feature, but actually obtain power directly from the battery thru a dedicated fuse.
Hope this helps anyone else with this sort of issue.
 
#53 ·
So my interior lights are different then the ones on Post #5. Mine are the old fuse looking light with the metal on both ends. I should still be able to solder this resistor to each end of the bulp to fix this issue if I'm thinking right correct?
 
#57 ·
And I retract my previous statement. DO NOT USE 10 OHM RESISTORS! THEY WILL MELT YOUR FESTOON LIGHT AND MAKE YOUR TRUCK SMELL LIKE CRAP! I left the door open for maybe 10 minutes yesterday unloading stuff out of the backseat, and noticed a funky smell. Looked up, realized my LED is off and the dome light is black. Opened it and found the culprit. Now I get to ride around with my windows down for the next couple days until that smell goes away :smiledown:
 
#58 ·
I have white interior LED's in my '08 1500. Essentially what what happens when you install LED's (which only draw milliamps) in a legacy incandescent system is, the LED's "feel" every little voltage drop and rise. This causes the flicker we all have come to loathe. A resistor causes the output downstream of it to be a little more refined and with the right one causes it to all but disappear. I am not able to add resistors due to lack of housing space and the unwillingness to cut up the housings.

Now I am new at this whole LED thing but after getting on 12volt.com and doing a whole lot of research to wire up my Bussman Relay box and courtesy lights, I have learned the benifit of resistors and capacitors. Capacitors will take care of the flicker on the theater lighting. Just FYI, you lose the effect afterwards.
 
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