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Change the color of your Door controls, Dash, and overhead console!

85K views 98 replies 54 participants last post by  WSUMiller 
#1 · (Edited)
Props to Leebroox on the ChallengerForumz! His write-up inspired me to do this one.

I had been toying with the idea of doing this swap since I got the truck. I never really cared for the generic green that Mopar uses everywhere. I wanted to do a how-to on this and document everything, since I figured there are probably more that may wanna give this a shot.

Let me preface this by saying that I am not a pro electrician by any means. I simply grew up around this stuff and have a bit more knowledge than most when it comes to this. I hope this helps any of you guys that may have some doubt about doing this type of swap. It's not for the faint of heart, but it's definitely not impossible either.

I will be documenting these mods separately, and will keep them all in this thread for easy reference.
1. Door Lock/Window Controls
2. Dash Center Stack Controls (AC and Heating controls, traction control buttons, etc.)
3. Headlight Switch
4. Overhead Console including the Homelink buttons
5. Center Console PRND Shifter indicator
6. Steering Wheel Controls

The first mod is for the door lock/window controls. I am only showing the drivers door, but the other doors are all the same.
(stay tuned for the rest of the mods later, but in no specific order...)

Here's what you'll need to get started.

1) Soldering iron with a pencil tip. The smaller, the better.

2) Solder (preferrably 60/40 rosin core solder - the thinner the better)

3) De-soldering braid (solder-wick)

4) T20 Torx screwdriver

5) 2 small flat screwdrivers

6) Assorted Trim tools

6) 11 3.2mm x 2.8mm Blue LEDs (or whatever color you prefer) These are SMD (surface mounted devices) and are VERY tiny! ORDER EXTRAS! You may need a magnifier to work with these. The 2.2mm x 1.4mm LEDs are literally the size of a fleas ass! Just ask Leebroox!

These are the ones I used and recommend:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...ReHwWQlob9AISq6jrHwbBHG9J94KQHNKevPv2k5b2IKR3



Removing the controls is very simple on our trucks. Just use your choice of trim tools and pry up/remove the switch control module from the door. I'm only showing the driver's door control, but all the others are the same.

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Once that's done, simply unplug the harness.

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Take the switch inside to your workplace and disassemble.

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Be very careful when taking it apart! Make sure you do so with it upside-down so as not to have everything fall apart on the floor.

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Now we're down to the nuts of it. I opted to leave the amber on/off indicator LEDs alone. (personal preference) The hardest part here is removing the button contacts from the PCB. This piece must be de-soldered completely before removing it from the board. Try to to not get the board too hot when removing the LEDs. The traces on the board may lift, forcing you to replace the whole thing. Also, make sure you don't get the LEDs too hot when soldering them to the PCB. You will ruin them, or at the very least, shorten their lifespan.

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You MUST make absolutely sure when you're doing this mod that you have the polarity correct on the LEDs!! I can't stress this enough. These are hard enough to change as it is. You don't want to have to go back and re-do them because you got them backwards! Check the cathode on the original LED first.

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Once you have them all changed, simply reverse the above procedure for reassembly. I opted to test my work first by just plugging in the module itself in the door. You must turn on the key to see the door switches illuminate. The pic below sucks, I know. Trust me, these are very dark blue and look absolutely awesome in the dark! They are NOT white.

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I hope you guys can make some sense of all this. I'll be documenting the other stuff soon.

Scott
 

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#33 ·
The 3rd gens are different, they have vertical switches and the smd leds are mounted inside the switch housing, a complete bitch to get to with a soldering iron. I pulled mine apart when I did my amber lighting swap. The center controls use warm white leds for everything and have a green-tinted gel on the underside of the display panel. The gel can be removed carefully using acetone, but too much and you can remove the white diffusion material and distort any lettering/numbers. I believe I did a write up on this a while ago, but I'd have to search for it. I wasnt that impressed with the switches and replaced then with a stock unit.
 
#3 ·
I would think they'd be the same. I never touched my '04 controls, so I can't say for sure though.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I finally got out my "good" camera tonight and got some much better shots of what they actually look like.

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#7 · (Edited)
Here is the headlight switch mod.

Parts Needed:
1 3.2mm x 1.8mm LED from Mouser.com http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Avago-Technologies/HSMN-A100-P00J1/?qs=/ha2pyFaduhXUMGm9eZReHwWQlob9AISq6jrHwbBHG9J94KQHNKevPv2k5b2IKR3
1 2.2mm x 1.4mm LED from DigiKey.com Electronic Components and Parts Search | DigiKey Electronics

Remove the vent with the headlight switch in it, then unplug the switch and pop it out of the vent. It just pushes out from the back.

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Once you get it out, back at your workplace, remove these screws.

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At that point you will see the board, all greased up. Leave it greasy, but be careful not to get it everywhere. Especially where the LEDs are. Take note of the retainer tab.

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This is what we're working with. There are 2 different size LEDs in the headlight switch. The main one is just like we used before on the door switches. The smaller one is a 2.2mm x 1.4mm LED.

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Same as before, just reverse everything to put it all back together.
Here's a pic of the finished product.
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#12 ·
Another superb idea and write up! :smileup:
Your link for the second LED from DigiKey.com displays "Part not found." Could you try posting a link to the LED again? Thanks! Keep up this awesome work!
 
#8 ·
killer dude...to me thats takin it to another level
 
#9 ·
thats freakn sweet! love this mod. RED would be so cool for my set up. thanks for the super detailed write up.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the reps, guys!


...more mods to come...

Scott
 
#13 ·
I went back and re-did the link. It works fine for me. Dunno....

Here's the part number if it'll help.

TLBD1060T18DKR-ND

Scott
 
#14 ·
This is just Awesome!!!!!! I've transitioned to all LED's inside my truck except for these surfaced mounted ones. I forsee this being very useful to complete my transformation. Thank you for taking the time to share this up here.:smileup:
 
#16 · (Edited)
For those of you that may be doubting just how small these SMD LEDs are, here's a size comparison for you. First compared with a dime, and also with a single grain of brown rice.

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#19 ·
I noticed on my wifes 2011 durango the controls on the doors are white, I wonder if other vehicles came with other colors other than green. It looks like at least with the switch panels that they would just swap out, cant say i have ever seen any red ones though. just thinking out loud.....
 
#21 · (Edited)
The LEDs were $50-$60 altogether. What do you need to solder? I guess I should try to show more of that, but it's kinda difficult to take a pic while doing it. There are contacts on the sides of the LEDs that need to be soldered to the PC board. You can see on this pic where they are soldered to the board on the ends of the LEDs.

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#23 ·
Holy crap those are small!
 
#24 ·
Great write up man. Once you get the write up/pics done for every location you should talk to a MOD and make a new thread that just has your posts in them and have it stickied
 
#25 ·
I should be finishing up the dash, Homelink, and AC controls tonight. Stay tuned....


Scott
 
#34 ·
LOL. Well, the stock ones are "green"... but not GREEN green. Green would look very cool if you had everything else matching or color-coded to that. That would look killer!

Scott
 
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#27 · (Edited)
Finished up some more tonight. Everything is done except for the overhead console and steering wheel controls. I'm going to try to do those tomorrow.

AC Controls, PRND, Tow mode, etc.

Tools needed:
#2 Philips Screwdriver
T20 Torx Screwdriver
Trim Tools

Parts Needed:
(1) LED-74
http://www.dav-electronics.com/DAVCart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_31&products_id=91

(10) 2.2mm x 1.4mm SMD LEDs
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kingbright/AA2214QBS-D/?qs=/ha2pyFaduh7ksMvnEMMuamhuIyaAfZVqFOsUVRCc5MtfxM19Op4WA==

Getting to all of this stuff is the fun part.
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Once you get to this point, all you have to do is pull up on the lower part of the center console cover and it'll snap right out.

Now we get to the center stack controls.
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At this point, pull out on the lower left and right corners of the center bezel to remove it from the snaps. It may be very tight, but it will come out with a little persuasion. Pull all the way around to disengage all the snaps and just tilt it towards the shifter. This will give you access to the wiring harness plugs that you will have to remove in order to completely remove the center bezel. Sorry I don't have any pics of this part, but you should be able to easily see what I'm referring to once you get to that point. It's really pretty simple. Once you have it removed, lay it flat on a towel so as not to scratch the face, then follow these steps below.

Now, we're finally down to the switch modules.

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Don't forget, I'm not changing out the amber on/off indicator LEDs. I'm leaving those alone. I prefer to have some contrast on the dash so I know when something is on or not. The LEDs for the knobs themselves are a total bitch to get to. You could remove the entire knob assembly, and risk breaking something, or you could just use a very steady hand and some skill, and replace the LEDs like it is. I'm glad I have steady hands!



This is the button row above the AC controls.
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