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Got a lighting issue...12v system, 24v lights.

7K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  ArmyofOne 
#1 · (Edited)
OK, so I have the ok to grab up some LED Lights we use for Route Clearance here in afghanistan. My boss said they were going to throw/give them away anyway. I checked them, and they work fine. Except for one problem...

They require a 24V system. I am wondering if there is a fairly inexpensive way to make this work. I am going to purchase a smittybuilt light bar for mounting. These lights are made by KC under contract for military use. They have 10 individual LED's that are BRIGHT. We are talking probably nowhere near legal bright (would be used off road only and kept covered when not in use). They have the same color as a 4300-5000k HID bulb, with about a million candlepower per light.

So is there a way for me to make a stand alone 24v electrical system? or would it probably be cheaper for me to just order a set of 12v KC's for my lightbar. I only want to do this if it will end up being cheaper in the long run. I dont want to have to buy batteries all the time so I would like to have a way to recharge (like an alternator) if possible.

The only way I see this working is:

1. Purchase 2 optima batteries.
2. Mount lights and lightbar.
3. run wiring to wherever.
4. Install optima's before playtime, connected in series.
5. Go play.
6. Come home and disconnect/remove batteries.
7. throw them on the charger/keep them trickled when not in use.
8. Reinstall when playtime is imminent.

However, the only thing this will do is make a mess (because the only place I have the ability to keep 2 batteries wired series is under my rear seat=not a good idea) and become a pain in my ass. Not to mention buying 2 optima batteries is stupid expensive.
 
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#2 ·
Do you know what kind of current/amp draw they have? You could probably just run them off of 12v but they wont be nearly as bright.
Being LED I would recommend a hobby battery over 2 optimas. A123 cells are a li-ion battery that are 3.3 nominal volts. They make 3 different capacity cells. I have only used the 2.3 Ah but they just came out with a 4.4 Ah cell. They are extremely safe especially compared to li-po batteries. Of course you would have to buy a charger (around $100-$150 dollars typically) but this would be a MUCH smaller package then the optimas(you could easily have two packs in your truck and still be smaller then a single optima). I think they 2.3Ah cells are usually 8 or 9 dollars.
If you choose to go this route be careful of knock off A123. Let me know if you wanna look into this anymore and I could try to point you in the right direction
 
#3 ·
i dont know much about the batteries he is talking about ^^ (i always had nitro RC cars not electric, which i know isnt what we are talking about but the battery technology is the same) but what about building a battery bracket that mounts in the bed and run it with 1/0G wire?? seems like the safest set up to me?
 
#4 ·
I had a whole post written and it didnt let me post it.
From the military lights KC has on there website, although none are 10 LED, are all rated for 9-32v
Before getting batteries and everything I would definitly try them out at 12v
The 18 led light was 54 watts I believe which I would guess is at 32v giving you 1.7A
The 4.4Ah battery would only give you about 2 hours of lights so you would have to do a 2s7p pack or something and it would probably get a little expensive
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Next option:

Went back to the Motor Sergeant, he said: "Oh, you need 12v ones instead of 24? Here ya go!" and handed me 4 of these:





They have 3 wires, I am guessing High Beam, Low beam and Ground. I will only want the highs hooked up. Trust me if I turn these on, there will be nobody in front of me.

They are on mounts already. So all I have to do now is get a smittybilt light bar. :D And I was wrong on the brand, they are TruckLite. I will need to get some light covers (preferably the vinyl kind) from somewhere. Suggestions?
 
#7 ·
Hey just wanted to throw in my 2cents.........
If the 24v are still offered to you, grab them.
Chances are the can operate at 12v perfectly.
These lites are probably very similar to the ones we use here in the aircraft industry.
The 24v lites usually have the same setup as the 12v in some form of resistor, driver or voltage regulator that breaks the 24v down to 12v before the LEDs.
The same circuit would be used to guarantee 12v to the LEDs no matter what the input voltage is(within reason).
As stated up above, higher grade, high power DC lighting systems can usually operate in a range from 9-32v.
If you do take the 24v as well, and they dont seem to be operating at full efficiency, pop them open and post a pic of the insides.
Replacing a couple resistors should do the trick to convert them to 12v operation.
Hope this helps.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I have no way to get 8 lights back to the states, And I have plugged the 24V into a 12, they are NOT bright enough. They are about as bright as DRL.

These lights are 7" in diameter and 4 inches deep. Can you think of any fitment issues on a smittybilt light bar? I may only be able to mount 2. Be that as it may, they give off a STUPID amount of lighting as they are used for route clearance.

Again, please note these lights will stay covered unless I am OFF ROAD. These are bright enough they are likely to kill someone. They will blind everything 1/3 mile or more in front of my truck. They are THAT BRIGHT.



Current draw is less than 2 amps per light according to my multimeter on a set that was connected, not sure how that is possible?
 
#9 ·
Those are actually a DOT approved LED headlight. The wires are like you said, Ground, Low beam, High beam. They draw 2.5A on Low, and 4.5A on High. Because the color temp of the light is very close to daylight, the effective light output visually appears more than what it is. These will make great auxiliary lighting for your truck, and since they are designed as a sealed beam replacement in the PAR56 size, finding a suitable housing with covers should not be difficult. It is possible that covers designed for 7" auxiliary lighting will fit them perfectly.

Great find! :smileup:
 
#10 ·
Anyone want some? :p kidding, this was a one time deal. what a hookup. You dont think they will look to gargantuan on the front of my ram?

Specs are:

Improved Low Beam Performance
DOT Approved, High Beam and Low Beam
Provides light output closer to the color temperature of daylight, dramatically improving light projection distance and overall visibility
Solid-state design resists damage from shock & vibration
Offers as much as 50x longer life (10,000 hrs vs 400 hrs) than comparable incandescent lamps, saving the time and expense of replacing lamps multiple times
Hard wired design, fully encapsulated electronics & anodized aluminum housing protect from damage caused by corrosive elements
Impact resistant polycarbonate lens protected against damage caused by debris and other hazards
Direct replacement for Par 56, H6014 and H6024 lamps
3-Year Limited Warranty


From TruckLite.com
 
#11 ·
You could mount all 4 on a light bar at the back of the cab. That would make for some serious off-road lighting, and you won't need separate alternator to run them. :)

Then add a switch to select between 'far and wide' and 'really really far'. :D
 
#12 ·
I need a 3 way switch (preferably with a blue LED) that I can use for a control.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Dillon, when you drive down a dirt trail looking for buried bombs for a living, the military spares no expense. I work on and recover the vehicles that these guys do that for a living with. I ride in their convoys on every mission as well. These were a case of "someone ordered the wrong thing for the wrong truck". They have literally been sitting in a box for months. So I asked the Motor Sergeant if I could take them, he said sure, so I hooked them up to a battery real fast to make sure they worked and that was that.

Its fun getting badass shit for free. But I gotta wonder how rediculous this will look on a smittybilt light bar across the front of my 4th gen.

Time will tell. I got a year to figure it out. As for that switch, it is awesome lookin, but its only rated at 3A, I need one rated 5 or higher (4.4amp draw from lights) and I would prefer a 3 way for Highbeam/Lowbeam/off. with low beam it only lights up 4 LED's and I can possibly use it for a driving light.
 
#15 ·
I would definitely run those off a relay, You'll probably have to if you want an LED switch as most are low amp.
Most off road lights are 6" so they shouldn't look to out of place. My brother used to have 2 Hella 100w halogens on the bumper of his jeep that he relayed with his high beams. He had to be really careful when he turned his high beams on and off but the were bright!
 
#16 ·
Can you explain that a little better? Electrical Systems is the only ASE Cert. I havent earned yet. :doh:

I have a VERY basic knowledge of electrical systems. This is my understanding of the circut I will need (not nessecarily in this order)

Switch>Battery>Lights>Ground (I intend to ground back to the neg battery terminal). Where would the relay fit in there?
 
#17 ·
A relay is basically another switch that is closed once it gets a current, basically a switch to a switch. I would think the safest way to wire it would be with a inline fuse and a relay.
For your switch any low amp switch you would like connected to a hot accessory wire(ex. Cigarette lighter). Your typical 30 amp relay has 4 prongs on it, low current in from your switch, power in from the battery, a ground and power out. Once I'm on a computer instead of my phone I'll have to figure out how to do it with a high beam and low beam
 
#19 ·
Good info! When the time comes, I may just recruit a couple WA members and have a mod party!:thk::LOL:
 
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