Okay I've waited long enough, time to start photo-whoring this site up =)
My new Bone Stock 10' Sport Reg Cab 4x4 Sport...but not for long...
after (just before installing drop kit)
De-Badged, 28% Tint, Ground Force 2/3 Drop Kit, BedRug, BakFlip, BullyDog GT Tuner, Magnaflow CatBack, AirRaid, Nitto 305/50R20 Terra Grappler's.
Head's and Tails are GTS removable Covers. The Third Brake Light, Puddle Lamps, Front/Rear Ram Head emblems were done with NiteShades then cleared.
...all work Done by Myself and my little Bro' ... who has an impressive Body Shop at his disposal on weekends.
My dedicated Drag Tires/Wheels: Mickey Thompson 295/45R17 Street ET's on 17"x9" Black Moto Metal wheels.
Truck runs low 14's, at 3500+ DA. (13.7 Corrected) Next year with Headers hope to break into the 13's
I still need new spark plugs, A-pillar gauge pod, boost gauge and maybe a wide band.
also in the process of lining up an ATS transmission to handle the extra power.
I likely wont do the install (like my buddy did) until I have a back up trans,
he is pretty careful with his right foot most of the time, but I just don't trust myself to have that much self control.
I was thinking of getting a set of those Billet Badges. Have you ever had an issue with someone trying to pry them off? I am worried some punk would try and make a trophy out of mine if I got some.
Also, still got the Vantage? Aston Martin makes some of the most amazing sounding and looking cars in the world.
No issues with my badges, very thin layer of industrial strength 3M over the entire surface.
I doubt they could be removed without significant damage to the truck or the badges.
Astons will last forever here, 5 years old and still like new.
We only get nice weather and pot-hole repaired roads for 3-4 months out of the year.
hey BlackRamHemi, as you're getting a new trans and converter, what will you be doing with your edge converter? curious if being an edmonton local and all i could possibly take it off your hands, i have nearly an identical truck as well, just a 2011. just a thought.
My Bud and I made a run for the border in his Cummins a couple weeks ago
(to save shipping/brokerage fees to Canada)
To pick up our L&M Customs built transmissions and ATS Torque Converters
It was 12 hours round trip, but only cost us $65 ea for diesel to get there and back on one tank.
UPS/FedEx charges would have been easily $400+ ea shipped to our door.
Picking them up at Sweet Grass Montana, AtTheBorderStorage fee $25/pallet, Customs fee at the border was $83 ea.
Mike didnt' have time to get them cleaned up on the outside, but we degreased them and painted them the following weekend ourselves easily enough.
Here's after paint ... Silver (BRH) and Copper(MGRAM)
Now I can finally get started on my Ripp Supercharger install!!!
While waiting for the paint to dry between coats I drilled my crank for the dowel pin
Spark Plugs and Front Brakes/Rotors were done in an afternoon last Friday
...about 4 hours total working leisurely with several beer breaks (it was HOT)
Spent $240 for pads and rotors (Wagner)
I would have liked to step up to a 4 piston SSBC Big Brake kit, $1500
...but it wasnt in the budget right now, and as you can see I couldn't wait much longer...
With the Stopping power taken care of it was time to get the Go Power back on track...
Removed the grill so I could install my Ripp intercooler Rad, and more room to lay down on my engine to do the spark plug swap.
a light coat of black heat resistant paint so the aluminum rad wouldn't be visible through the grill...
Pump installed and routed the hoses to run to/from the heat exchanger
I matched up all the hardware, brackets, couplers and band clamps with the rest of my kit to make sure nothing was missing...
So it looks like injectors, PCV valve,MAP sensor, belt, boost/vac line tap for the little stuff
then everything else should go in within an hour or so... Awesome Kit anyone can DIY with basic hand tools.
I would like to know how the brake pads work out for you. It seem like the pads that come from the factory are always nice and quite, but the next set of pads are always noisy unless you spend a boat load of money on them.
I'll try to remember, but it was 3 years ago and I am getting older ld:
I just realized some of the links I provided on earlier pages for CarId are dead now.
You should still be able to navigate their site to find the Remin dash Kits for your year/model though
BlackRamHemi - Thanks for taking the time to do that. I'll see what kind of extra funds I have this month and maybe I'll purchase a set before the sale ends. If it's ended already then I'll at least know what to buy. :wavey:
install was a breeze with basic hand tools, 100% driveway install, no help required...
Launches like a scalded dog, shifts are firm and solid, pulls like a freakin Freight Train!
Next up, installing the new MGH trans, Alcohol Injection System
...and get my Wide Band, Fuel Pressure and Boost Gauges wired in.
For now the stock trans feels pretty solid,
must be the Sonnax line pressure booster, absolutely no need to "lift to shift".
BTW, the Ripp tune will still allow full spark and fuel adjustments,
and shift points and rev limiters can still be adjusted on my Trinity ...nothing locked down.
I didn't want to max out my shift points until I get my gauges wired though,
If it runs too lean on the top end and boost goes too high I want advanced warning.
looks killer. i'm guessing the BT catch can cant retain its original position lower down with the ripp kit? i wanna feel the power of one of these things in person...and why the choice of alcohol injection rather than water/meth or nitrous?
Methanol = Alcohol
and you run it on -20 winter windshield washer fluid
that is a perfect water-methanol pre-mix available anywhere.
and will boost regular pump gas up to 116 octane
You can even tap into your stock washer fluid tank, that way you get a low warning light.
It gets set to spray only when boost registers over 4psi, so doesn't use much.
I upgraded to a dual nozzle kit , just for a more even spay pattern.
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Lower air temperatures by 50-200+ degrees
Reduces cylinder temperatures by 200+ degrees
Increase your 87-93 pump gas by 15-20+ points
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Cools and protects the tops of your pistons
Longer more stable combustion expansion and progression
Removes carbon build up from combustion chambers, pistons and valves
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