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Adaptive learning table reset, yes or no?

13K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  brad12kx 
#1 ·
First off I didn't know exactly where to post this since it potentially effects electronics and propulsion as well and various engines across several years. I figured general was as good as any. If a mod. wants to move it please feel free.

So, I installed my CAI but did not disco. the battery. Now, I know that the adaptive learning curves get cleared from the table if you do (correct?), but how nessisary is this? Does anyone know exactly how this works (Randy)? Is the value table limited or does it just keep growing with additional data? If it is limited, how does the stack work, first in first out? What I'm getting at is, if I don't reset it will the old data eventually tummble out, or does it just collect new data on top of the old.

Other considerations ... I have been having an intermittant hesitation issue while accelerating. Could this be related to the air fuel tables and if so would wiping the table perhaps help resolve the issue? I also do radically different (used to be 25 mile nonstop commute at 55-60mph and almost no city driving, now 35 mile commute at 75mpg mixed with more city driving) driving now than I do when I first purchased the truck and have seen a decline in MPG, could reseting the table help with that?

I've heard opinions that you should not reset the table since it's all good data, and other opinions that you should reset it if you have a significant change in driving habits or equipment as the system will learn the new conditions faster from a blank slate.

What does everyone here think.
 
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#2 ·
What I know from having re-set the block learn on my Jeep, and this was only after I checked for codes (which, for it being a '91 and I did this in '05, and, to my surprise, not one code had been sent to my computer), with the proper diagnostic equipment, first, it didn't hurt anything. For the first few weeks, it was like I was driving my Jeep when it was brand new all over again. Randy may agree or disagree with my thought, but to me, and this is just my opinion from having done it myself, my advice would be to check for any codes first before re-setting the block learn, but at that point, the computer will then learn your driving habits/style in conjunction with any performance mods you have done, which, to me, will give a more accurate picture should a code come up in the future.

- Cajun
 
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#3 ·
It really won't matter if you reset the adaptives after a couple of drives because the adaptives will change, hence the term adaptive fuel trims. If memory serves, there are 24 adaptive cells in use. I don't have all the info for adaptives with me at the moment. Resetting the adaptives won't hurt anything, so if you want to give it a try, feel free. Relearning after a significant change to engine hardware will be quicker if you reset the adaptives but it isn't neccessary.
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys, I'll probably give it a try (disco. hot on battery for 5 minutes?). I've only driven maybe 100 miles since I put in the CAI so I'm not really far in. I know I don't have any codes so I'm not worried about clearing those.

I was curious about if the adaptive used long term averages or a short table. I would say 24 cells is a really short table. I have a hard time figureing how that would even be all that usefull as it can't possible give that good a picture of driving habits or conditions, more of a snapshop.

Randy, I'd still be interested in any additional info you happen to dig up (as I'm sure would be others). Thanks for all your help.
 
#5 ·
Here again, Randy I'm sure has performed this procedure a hundred times to my one, but from the way I understand it, until you completely re-set your block learn, the computer has stored everything. In my case, my Jeep computer had stored not only my driving habits/styles, but also those of the previous owner, so I guess you could say that is a long term memory. I'm curious, now, too since this comes up, how exactly this works.

- Cajun
 
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#6 ·
Adaptives are just that, adaptive. Not all the cells will change permanently but some will "adapt" to the new air in situation. Some other adaptives will relearn from initial inputs but my experience is without some program designed to set a permanent value, the adaptives will revert to last known best parameter, depending on how you normally drive.
 
#7 ·
For many years now, I reset the computer twice a year to help the computer learn 'temperature'. In our climate, the extreme from the hottest to the coldest appears to be too much for the computers to handle without a little assistance. If I do not, I will get the MIL in the winter on the first day to hit about -35C, and in the summer on the first day that hits about +35C, so I starting doing the reset at -15C and +20C.....Usually November and June.

Aside for fixing the MIL issue, I have noticed improved overall performance within 100 miles after each reset....so I say....go for it! :smileup:

To reset, after you remove the battery cables, touch them together to fully discharge the residual voltage in the system, then you can re-connect them right away.....or let it sit overnight.
 
#8 ·
I understand where that shuts off the MIL, but I didn't see where just disconnecting the battery cleared the computer memory (goodness knows I disconnected my battery enough times, lol). My car still acted the same until I hooked the Genesys to it and manually went through the menus to reset it. Albeit my Jeep is an OBD-I vehicle, but that shouldn't be a determining factor.

- Cajun
 
#9 ·
There is so much that goes on in the vehicle electronics now, that even a reset, may not reset everything.....and likely doesn't. Having said that, doing a battery disconnect resets enough stuff to clear the MIL, adaptive table(s) and probably a few other things....enough that I get to drive my vehicles in the heat of the summer and cold of the winter without the MIL coming on. Funny thing...most people around here drive for about 3 months in the winter with the MIL on. It's considered 'normal'. Then when they do die on the road, they are shocked that the vehicle never alerted them of a problem. I just laugh......when my MIL comes on, I take notice, and do something about that doesn't include placing a piece of black E-tape over it. :LOL:
 
#10 ·
LOL, I agree with you, light goes on I pay attention also and, surprisingly, this past winter was one of our coldest on record for down here, we were below freezing with record low temps for a solid week and yet besides a slight pulley squeak and the one time my low tire light came on, that was it. Guess my truck can handle the winters better than I can and, granted, you guys have it waaaay colder than I even care to imagine, you're the first I've heard mention that you reset it like that. Do you notice a huge difference if you don't?

- Cajun
 
#11 ·
Yeah, I could see how the cold would do that. I moved down to florida from michigan (where I grew up) two years ago. trust me Cajun, the cold snap this winter here is nothing by comparison. -35C is about -30F (without doing the conversion but I'm pretty sure that's close). At those temp's things start to crack and spliter due ot the bitter cold and your tire will even freeze enough you can get a flat spot you can feel and hear where each tire was touching the ground where you parked. Once the tires warm up they become round again.

Brad, if you happen to know, is there anything that can be damaged by touching the contacts together? I would think the gradual discharge would be more gentle but if it makes no difference I'm all for speeding the process up.
 
#13 ·
......Brad, if you happen to know, is there anything that can be damaged by touching the contacts together? I would think the gradual discharge would be more gentle but if it makes no difference I'm all for speeding the process up.
The procedure is completely safe. I normally pull the 'neg' and immediately hold it on the 'pos' post for about 2-5 sec, then put it back on the neg and go. Just don't take the 'Short' cut I saw a guy try. He figured that to save time, he'd just put a wrench across the battery terminals......that was cool!!!!! :hah:
 
#12 ·
If I don't, I get a persistent MIL and starting problems. The truck will fire up, rev to about 2500rpm, and die. Repeat that same procedure 4-5 times, then it will usually run, hesitate allot, misfire sometimes, rev on it's own sometimes.....all the normal winter driving stuff! The lucky ones accidentally leave their lights on and kill the battery (this is almost impossible anymore). When they get it boosted, the computer is reset and runs great for the rest of the winter, but then on the hot summer days....MIL again....starting issues....etc. The part I find amazing, is the garages here haven't figured it out yet! :doh: I've been doing my reset procedure since my 89 Ford, and with the exception of the first winter and following summer of a new truck, I don't deal with this problem. With a new truck, I always leave it until it screws up.....mainly to see if the manufactures have figured it out yet. I will try again this winter with my 2010......but I don't expect it will be any different than my 08 was. :4-dontknow:

BTW - I do NOT plug my vehicles in, in the winter. With my job, I have to park for extended periods of time where there are no plug in capabilities, so to ensure I have a vehicle that starts 'all the time', I treat it the same at home, as I do at work. I only ever had 1 that wouldn't start when the temp dropped below -32C.(91 Ford).....replaced the ECM, and problem fixed. I have been told this is hard on an engine......I have no experience that would substantiate this. My trucks start....and run great....all the time. I have company trucks (various brands), the oldest being a 94 with 325,000kms (~200,000miles), and it's still fine. Uses 1qt in 5000km (3000mi), but only when pulling a heavy trailer. :smileup:

When asked what my secret is -:thk:- "Regular maintenance and a good battery"
 
#14 ·
I was going to ask if you used a block heater, but you answered that question, lol, but this is interesting to me as I don't experience the climates that some on here do. Sheesh, it gets to 60F here and I'm looking for a jacket! Seriously though, and by comparison, this past winter, to me, was the second coldest here. '03 was worse, I pretty much had to scrape ice off my Jeep every morning to go to work (and that's a lot of windows, lol), but even then, my car and my '81 Ram always started right up even on the coldest of days, but, like you said, regular maintenance is essential.
 
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