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2010 Ram Factory Trailer Brake Controller Install

215K views 347 replies 149 participants last post by  Scottfpollack 
#1 ·
Picked up the factory trailer brake controller from the Dealer I bought my truck from. Supposedly there was a high 200 unit backorder nationally but it took only a week to get it in.

The controller P/N is: 56029431AF
The beige trim is: 1EB13DK2AA

Installation took 15 minutes after discounting the fact that I was taking pictures.

This is where the factory controller is mounted.



This is the new bezel.



Face of new controller.



Bottom of new controller.



Mount the controller into the bezel. There are 2 screws you'll need to dig up and they're both different sizes. Careful not to attempt to use a screw that's too big or you'll split the plastic casing.



Remove these two Philips screws and don't lose them.




After the screws are out, carefully pull the panel straight back. The ODBC connector and hood release can be left attached.



Once the center panel has been removed, the first of two mounting screws for the cubby are exposed. It a Torx screw.



On the left side of the dash panel is a small access door. It pulls out from the leading edge. Be careful not to just jam a screwdriver in there and pry it open or you'll mark up the sharp edge of the dashpad. I inserted a small screwdriver just enough to get my fingernail in and pull it out. Take it easy here because you can see any marks you make. Plastic trim tools would work well here also.



Now that the access door is open the second retaining screw for the bezel is exposed. Remove both screws now and pull the cubby straight out of the dash.



Up under the left side of the dash (fairly close to where you're working) you should find two grey connectors that are taped to the harness. Untape them and route them to the opening you'll be inserting the new bezel and controller into.



Carefully insert the controller and bezel assembly into the opening and press it firmly into place so the secondary clips on the bezel seat properly into the dash. Plug in the connectors you untied above (they are two different sizes so you won't mix them up) and reinstall the two Torx retaining screws. Turn the ignition on to ensure that all the LEDs illuminate then go off. If it functions correctly then close the left access panel, replace the lower trim and secure it with the original screws.




This is the finished product with protective film removed from controller face.



Very nice!!

Paul
 
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#198 ·
Bully TC 301 brake controller users may run into the problem to drain the trucks battery.

Its Molex connector pins are:
Pin 1 red receives the 12V Accessory ignition switch wire. = black on Reese pig tail PN# 20273
Pin 2 Blue comes from the stop light switch. = red
Pin 3 black is negative = wt
Pin 4 is the output to the brakes = blue
(RAM 2010 2500 4x4 Diesel with factory wired trailer plugs has constant battery power from fuse J02 30 Amp. on Pin 1 of the Bully unit using the larger of the two under the dash trailer brake controller plugs)

I installed a relay to switch the Pin 1 power off. Its coil power came from an ACC wire.

Thanks to the OEM money saving skinny wires be aware that 20A draw is the limit!

Do not trust the 30A fuse looking at the lenghts of the 20A rated wire to the rear trailer plug hauling 6 or more electrical brake magnet trailer. Mobile home axle trailer users watch out for even four units.

The second OEM brake controller plug may has the secret that turns the OEM brake controller off when you turn your ignition off. What is its pin layout?

Please edit this matter.
 
#199 ·
Great detailed post :smileup:

I tried to order the control with my local dealer and was told that the OEM module can not be sold for a truck that was not originally equipped with because of troubleshooting risks. (Even if all the wiring is in place, from the factory)
Dealer told me Chrysler now has a new kit available but it is on backorder for god knows how long (475 on B/O and only 124 scheduled for delivery at the end of April) and it is way more expensive... 354$:doh:
Anyone knows about this???
 
#200 ·
I tried to order the control with my local dealer and was told that the OEM module can not be sold for a truck that was not originally equipped with because of troubleshooting risks. (Even if all the wiring is in place, from the factory)
I wonder what the difference in trouble shooting would be for a OEM controller and the exact same controller sold as OEM option for more money...It would make sense to me to simply pull two plugs is trouble shooting were really a problem.
 
#202 ·
Sorry if I didn't see this answer, but can anyone tell me? I just installed my controller and haven't made it to the dealer to have it flashed yet. I can see a trailer LED in the background but it doesn't light up when I'm connected to my trailer. Is this something that only shows up once flashed? Everything else works fine when connected.
 
#204 ·
Just installed unit on my 2011 Laramie.

Took about 25 minutes ... 10 for the two connections. Kinda tight.

Used the new kit - Part # 82212548.

Kids got it for my birthday through Wyckoff.

Since it is a kit, hoping the Dodge (Ram) Boys don't hit me too hard on the flash.

Directions no better than what is shown on this thread, but they come several languages .....
 
#205 ·
i got quoted $90- $100 for the flash they considered it 1 hr diagnostic charge brought out the doz donuts i brought for the shop and got a call 5 min later giving me a $50 discount cost me $40 plus tax (and $7.50 for the donuts) also got a ride to work and the truck delivered to me freshly washed
 
#208 ·
factory instaaled brake controller

has anyone had problems with there factory installed brake controller. i just purchase a 2011 3500 4x4 with a brake control installed but it will not work on mu trilaer that has a electric over hydral. system. the dealer say it suppose to work but it does, jsut wanted to know if anyone else experience this issue.
 
#210 · (Edited)
A big thank you for making this install so simple.
It was so nice to look under the dash of the 2011 Crew Cab Sport and see the white faced and orange faced plugs, just waiting to be plugged into the ITBM part#56029431AH ($97.92) and my black/gray bezel part#1EB13XDVAA ($6.50) ordered with a quick call to mopar-wholesale.com which I had to call a couple times to catch them when the ITBM was "in-stock". Did the install and drove to the dealership (Papik's) where they added the ITBM to the vehicle options with code "XHC" and then reflashed. Now everything shows up on the dash also.



 
#212 ·
Hi All,
I am new to the forum, I was the recent owner of a 2007 Dakota and it was a great vehicle. I recently upgraded to a 1500 SLT, man what a great truck. That being said I was disappointed to find that I only have the one big connector for the factory TBC. I appear to have all of the towing options XFH Class IV Receiver Hitch, XFKS 7 Pin Wiring Harness, XFUS Trailer Tow w/4-Pin Connector Wiring, GPG Power Black Trailer Tow Mirrors. So I have discovered this fact after purchasing the TBC, not received yet still on order from the dealer. Any way should I go with my current Tekonsha P-3 or try and T into the into the wiring to install the factory TBC. I just don’t want to run into warrantee issues.
 
#214 ·
Thanks for the thread. All pinned down. Very easy mod once I confirmed I had both the connectors waiting on me.

I did add a third screw to the back, driver's side of the brake controller unit and it's a lot more stable. Not necessary, but it made me feel better especially as I was inserting the connectors. My dealer will get my build detail updated and reflash the car when I bring it in.

HemiSam



 
#215 ·
Setup

I have seen a lot about the install, but after what about the set up.
I had mine installed by Dodge after I bought the truck.
But the trailer does not seem to slow much. My settings go in 10's, but I can only get it to go up to 30. If I manually pull the lever over, it goes to 99.
I can see it in the console (by my gauges) and a bar does go all the way across. When I hook my 5th wheel up and run with it, I pull the lever manually and the trailer barely slows, not really at all. Both the console and the controller always say 1.5

Maybe my trailer breaks are out of adjustment. Anybody had issues with it actually slowing the trailer down.
 
#216 ·
This last Friday my Brake controller showed up at the stealership BUT the bezel that came in had busted screw attachments. Showed this to the parts counter person and they got annoyed that I spotted the problem. I didn’t even take the part out of the bag. Well short story shorter I now have to wait till Tuesday to pick up the part and get the controller installed. By the way the last two digits on the controller are AH
 
#217 ·
Maybe my trailer breaks are out of adjustment. Anybody had issues with it actually slowing the trailer down.
It is pretty common for trailer brakes to be way out of adjustment. I would start there. My oem controller works as good as the Prodigy I used to use, so all is good on my install. I did read that it will not work with electric over hydraulic.
 
#221 ·
well I've been to 2 dodge dealers in town and neither can hook up the 2010 brake controller. I also tried myself but my truck does not have the white wire with blue stripe needed. I've tried everything I can think to find a wiring diagram to locate the matching CAN bus wires but no luck. maybe it is not possible on the 2009. bummer
 
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