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2010 Ram Factory Trailer Brake Controller Install

215K views 347 replies 149 participants last post by  Scottfpollack 
#1 ·
Picked up the factory trailer brake controller from the Dealer I bought my truck from. Supposedly there was a high 200 unit backorder nationally but it took only a week to get it in.

The controller P/N is: 56029431AF
The beige trim is: 1EB13DK2AA

Installation took 15 minutes after discounting the fact that I was taking pictures.

This is where the factory controller is mounted.



This is the new bezel.



Face of new controller.



Bottom of new controller.



Mount the controller into the bezel. There are 2 screws you'll need to dig up and they're both different sizes. Careful not to attempt to use a screw that's too big or you'll split the plastic casing.



Remove these two Philips screws and don't lose them.




After the screws are out, carefully pull the panel straight back. The ODBC connector and hood release can be left attached.



Once the center panel has been removed, the first of two mounting screws for the cubby are exposed. It a Torx screw.



On the left side of the dash panel is a small access door. It pulls out from the leading edge. Be careful not to just jam a screwdriver in there and pry it open or you'll mark up the sharp edge of the dashpad. I inserted a small screwdriver just enough to get my fingernail in and pull it out. Take it easy here because you can see any marks you make. Plastic trim tools would work well here also.



Now that the access door is open the second retaining screw for the bezel is exposed. Remove both screws now and pull the cubby straight out of the dash.



Up under the left side of the dash (fairly close to where you're working) you should find two grey connectors that are taped to the harness. Untape them and route them to the opening you'll be inserting the new bezel and controller into.



Carefully insert the controller and bezel assembly into the opening and press it firmly into place so the secondary clips on the bezel seat properly into the dash. Plug in the connectors you untied above (they are two different sizes so you won't mix them up) and reinstall the two Torx retaining screws. Turn the ignition on to ensure that all the LEDs illuminate then go off. If it functions correctly then close the left access panel, replace the lower trim and secure it with the original screws.




This is the finished product with protective film removed from controller face.



Very nice!!

Paul
 
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#7 · (Edited)
This is only for the 2010 models. As far as I know it won't work the same for the 2009 since the harness plugs aren't all present. I imagine it would mount exactly the same, but without the harness connectors you'd need to figure out what to tap into. There are other forums that show the connector pin-outs and what needs to be done to rig this up in a 2009.

Yes, you only need these two parts for the 2010 models.
 
#13 ·
Update: Took the truck into the Dealer for its 10K maintenance and spoke to the Service Manager about adding the Brake Controller into the build on DealerConnect and flashing the truck. He got the techs on it and the Controller is now in the EVIC under Vehicle Information.

So, at least for the 2010 models, adding the factory brake controller into the build is now a reality. It seems to work as if it was factory installed now.

Great news.
 
#15 ·
Hey guys. When the factory controller is installed, the dealer needs to add the trailer brake to your vehicle options through chrysler, then the vehicle needs to be reconfigured. This then allows you to control the trailer brake with your steering wheel buttons and the display is on your cluster.
 
#22 ·
They told me the same thing, something about there is a bulletin out that they don't work. But they still booked me in to flash the computer. there are no controller available here in BC, all on back order so i had to get mine from the States. installing it was super easy.
 
#21 ·
Yes - for a 2010 model.

The EVIC does not need to be flashed for it to work as a normal brake controller, however, once connected to the CANBUS it will log an error to the computer (no light) which may be an issue should there ever be something else wrong that requires them to read any codes to troubleshoot.

But it will work fine.
 
#23 ·
I phoned various dealers here to get one. The answers ranged from:
- we don't fit the factory one, we use a different one
- you can only have one fitted if you order one with your truck
- been on back order for months
- we don't have any but this dealer does.
I went with the last response, called the dealer and picked one up next day.
Fitted it in a few minutes, took the trailer out today, it worked fine.
It doesn't show up on the EVIC as the truck hasn't been updated but at the moment that's not a great concern to me.
Thanks for the original post Netman66 it made the install easy.:smiley_thumbs_up:
 
#25 ·
Great post. My new 2010 Ram 1500 SLT Crew was suppose to have both connectors installed with the "trailer tow wiring with 4-pin connector" option, but is missing the second small grey connector. No, my dealer cannot explain why. Would you have a clear photo of the back of the small grey harness connector? I've figured out which wires to run, but haven't figured out how they map to the pins on the connector. Again great job documenting your efforts.

Ken
 
#26 · (Edited)
Pinouts are as follows:

The large connector is wired as follows;
Terminal A1, Ground
Terminal A2, Brake Lamp Switch Output
Terminal A3 12 volt Positive
Terminal A4, Trailer Tow Brake Wire

The small connector is wired as follows;
Terminal B1, CAN C Bus (-), Circuit D51 22g WT/LB
Terminal B2, CAN C Bus (+), Circuit D52 22g WT/LG
Terminal B3, Fused Ignition Run/Start Control Output, Circuit F943 20g PK/LG
Terminal B4, Unused
 
#27 · (Edited)
Pinouts are as follows:

The small connector is wired as follows;
Terminal B1, CAN C Bus (-), Circuit D51 22g WT/LB
Terminal B2, CAN C Bus (+), Circuit D52 22g WT/LG
Terminal B3, Fused Ignition Run/Start Control Output, Circuit F943 20g PK/LG
Terminal B4, Unused
Thank you for your help. Since I don't care if I have the canbus related features installed, I suspect I only need to wire the pink/light green wire to B3.
 
#29 · (Edited)
My pleasure. I hope it helped.
Netman66 - Can you confirm that I have the canbus or B connector correctly mapped? I was able to find a schematic on the net mapping the main module connector (aka, A connector), but nothing for the small one. I'm using the same logic on the B connector as the A. Since the pink/lg wire has some amperage, I fear connecting it wrong could be disasterous.



Ken
 

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#37 · (Edited)
Hi Ken,

I am in the same boat as you with only one connector for the trailer brake module. Would you mind posting some pictures of your connections to the harness?

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Just wondering if it is working ok. I ordered one from my local Dodge dealer and it came in but they advised that there has been problems with it and Dodge is working on a fix. If you are not having any problems (they suggest it affects a computer setting possibly) then I am going to try it on my 2010 Ram 1500 Quadcab.
Guys - My notes are summarized in the attached PDF file. My dealer didn't indicate this modification would cause problems, they simply insisted it could not be done. When I informed the parts dept that I had been able to make the controller work in my truck, they admitted Chrysler has issued TSB stating an adapter kit to retrofit the "B" harness would be available in late 2010. Until then I guess the "official" word is the factory controller cannot be made to work with these trucks.

Ken
 

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