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  #11  
Old 01-15-2012, 10:06 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by Steffenaj14 View Post
right after i got it

Good turtle wax treatment and it will look good as new.
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2012, 10:15 PM
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i will have to really pay attention next time i drive it. but the way i know is that it feels like its second gear. ya know? like if you're driving a manual transmission and you start in second gear it starts slow with not a lot of pickup or torque like first will have. and i am familiar with cars and working on them. i can understand a lot of what you're saying but i do appreciate the dumbed down version because i don't have a ton of experience. i have done my fair share of work on cars though. do you think that the shift solenoid has anything to do with that?
Well, If it is starting out very very slow then the transmission could be slipping. If you are low on fluid it will usually slip, that simple. If you were really really low on fluid then the transmission wouldn't work because it uses the fluid as hydraulic fluid in the servos to apply the bands etc...

I don't think the shift solenoids would have much to do with it, it is also possible the clutch pack is burned out. This is hard to diagnose because I rebuilt my 46RH that had eww 128K miles and the frictions and steels were in perfect condition, I had some hard parts damage which is the worst but expected. Then again I read of posts by people who put no more then 25 miles on new parts and the new frictions and steels burned to a crisp. It's not uncommon to find these transmissions with to loose of a total end play, mine measure .08" the maximum is .084" and the minimum is .032" I think I know it's in the .03 range. I replaced my rear planet and washer and came out with a total end play of .06" which is perfect, the end play is important for the total life of the transmission, especially the washers.

But I'm not going to jump to a conclusion and say your transmission is shot that's it, I don't want to destroy your hopes or anything like that because I know how it feels when a vehicle you really love and enjoy dies!

But I don't know I need some time to think about it, first just adjust the bands, replace the filter and gasket and fill up with atf+4 and see how it does. Then we will know what to do, cause it actually could be something as simple as low fluid then it can be something as extreme as a shot overrunning clutch.
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2012, 10:27 PM
Steffenaj14 Steffenaj14 is offline
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which it is very possible that the fluid is low because the pan is leaking. so i will get the gasket and seal kit, some tranny fluid and filter, and some motor oil and work on that one tomorrow hopefully. i will let you know. and as far as the paint its in good condition. the guy decided to not clean a thing. so its pretty dirty. it'll get a wash here soon and a good cleaning in the spring. winter/salt/mud lol
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2012, 10:33 PM
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which it is very possible that the fluid is low because the pan is leaking. so i will get the gasket and seal kit, some tranny fluid and filter, and some motor oil and work on that one tomorrow hopefully. i will let you know. and as far as the paint its in good condition. the guy decided to not clean a thing. so its pretty dirty. it'll get a wash here soon and a good cleaning in the spring. winter/salt/mud lol
Ok, be sure you get ATF+4 fluid only.
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2012, 09:14 AM
Steffenaj14 Steffenaj14 is offline
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how much fluid do i need?

also i don't have an owners manual.. how much motor oil does it take?
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  #16  
Old 01-16-2012, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
The pans actually tend to leak because the bell housing is aluminum and with the heat the bolts seem to loosen them selves. Anyway's get a filter kit they come with the pan gasket so 2 in 1. Advanced auto has one for 5.99 Pro-King brand part number FK-119. I replaced my filter and gasket after rear band adjustment.

I doubt that replacing the pan gasket and topping off the fluid is going to help but many problems can trace to fluid level.

I have always used Valvoline, though I have tried others and even tried the different types of Valvoline oils. I use Valvoline for everything, axle, transmission, brakes, the works. It's been around for a long time and works great!

The kickdown band is a flexible metal band lined with friction material, the band is wrapped around a drum known as the front drum which houses frictions and steels which make up the front clutch. The purpose of this band is to hold the front drum in place during 2nd gear operation. If the front drum also known as the direct drum is help in place it also holds the sun shell in place because the front drum is interconnected to the sun shell, the sun shell houses the sun gear which is also interlocked to the shell. The sun gear is then placed into the rear planet and the front planet is placed onto the front of the sun gear. Now, if the front band is applied it will stop the front drum from spinning which would also stop the sun shell from spinning and the sun gear would then be stationary, this would have an effect on the gear ratio. How it has an effect is based on the principles of the planetary gear, if you have a certain part of the gear held stationary you can make the output spin in a different direction as the input thus reverse gear, you also can have the output speed be either faster or slower then the input speed.

The whole purpose of the kickdown is really so you can have a 2nd gear. The kickdown though is also for acceleration purposes. If you floor it while in 3rd gear for example you would put less strain on the engine if the transmission kicks down to 2nd gear then if you stayed in 3rd gear.

Now for adjustment. Bare with me!

Ok the adjusting nut is located on the driver side of the transmission. When looking at the driver side of the transmission you are going to see a cluster of shift linkage and then behind that linkage above the transmission cooler line output you will see a stud that will have either a square head or a torx head, and their will be a regular nut that is screwed onto it.

What you need to do is loosen that nut I believe a 3/4" Socket is the size. Once that is loosened then you can tighten the adjusting stud by turning it clockwise. Using a inch lb torque wrench torque that stud to 72 inch lbs exactly. Then turn the stud counterclockwise exactly 3 and 1/4 rotations. Then holding the stud finger tighten the nut. Then take your 3/4" socket and torque the locknut to 25 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench for the locknut then just tighten it wrist tight with a little extra force, tighten it to you can tighten it much but be careful.

You would normally back the stud 2 and 7/8 turns however when you go to tighten the locknut the stud will move with the nut and have an effect on the adjustment of the band.

That's it kickdown band all adjusted. You need to adjust the band every 20K miles if you tow with the vehicle, if you are a casual driver then you only need to adjust the band every 35-50 K miles depends on how you drive. The rear band doesn't need to be adjusted often because you use your drive range alot more often then you do reverse or manual 1st gear.

To adjust the rear band it's the same procedure except you band the adjustment stud 2 turn instead of 3 1/4. To adjust this band move over to the passenger side of the transmission and remove the fluid pan, then on look for an arm with a stud and locknut. And goes without saying now.
sorry to quote that huge reply but i have a few questions. first.. can i take it to a shop and tell them to adjust the kickdown band will they be know what i'm talking about/be able to do it right? i have a pretty knowledgeable and experienced mechanic that i take it to BUT not a transmission specialist
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2012, 01:30 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by Steffenaj14 View Post
how much fluid do i need?

also i don't have an owners manual.. how much motor oil does it take?
The engine needs 5 and a half quarts of oil and the transmission will use roughly 6 quarts of atf+4 if you change the fluid out of the pan.
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2012, 01:32 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steffenaj14 View Post
sorry to quote that huge reply but i have a few questions. first.. can i take it to a shop and tell them to adjust the kickdown band will they be know what i'm talking about/be able to do it right? i have a pretty knowledgeable and experienced mechanic that i take it to BUT not a transmission specialist
You certainly don't need a specialist or even a mechanic to adjust the band. As long as the person has a inch lb torque wrench then it can be done easily. Just be sure you tell him to adjust only the kickdown band and that it must be torqued 72 in/lbs exactly and then backed off exactly 2 turns.
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2012, 02:15 PM
Steffenaj14 Steffenaj14 is offline
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i just left aamco transmissions. i told them everything thats going on and had one of the guys drive it to feel it. he said it's slipping from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. it is also starting in 2nd gear when at a stop. but if you need it to start in 1st gear you have to shift into "2" and back into "drive" and it will start in 1st. we put it on the scanner and there were no codes. the check engine light is not on. but it said it had transmission hydraulic problems.

any input??
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2012, 06:46 PM
Steffenaj14 Steffenaj14 is offline
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yeah after talking to my trustworthy mechanic it looks like the best route to go is getting a jasper transmission dropping me down about 2600.

so much for an even trade
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