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  #31  
Old 02-03-2012, 12:13 AM
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Just because you have never heard something, doesnt make it not true. I never said you would ALWAYS have a problem. i said in time you can and that its not good for it. pressure change can be caused by slippage between the rings because of pitting. BUT im thinking about pre1950 restoration deserving cars anyways sooo, thats my educated opinion, i've never changed to synthetic in a modern vehicle after a few thousand miles. My tolerances in my vehicles might be a little tighter than yours. you do what works for you.
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  #32  
Old 02-03-2012, 12:18 AM
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and in 5W30 the W doesnt stand for weight, it stands for Winter lol
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  #33  
Old 02-03-2012, 03:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixxertricks View Post
and in 5W30 the W doesnt stand for weight, it stands for Winter lol
Exactly right,....the first number references an oil's resistance to flow at zero degrees F . The second number references the resistance again at normal operating temperatures (210-212)
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  #34  
Old 02-11-2012, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2welee View Post
How did you come to this conclusion about Amsoil? They say on their own site that they do not divulge thier base stock and that the only thing that matters is performance. I am not taking offense, just trying to figure out how we actually know that Royal Purple and Amsoil are actually any different than Mobil 1 or any of the other lesser "synthetics" that you speak of.
My apologies for not answering sooner; I just saw the post.

I didn't just "come" to this conclusion but I should have been clearer. When I am talking about Amsoil I am almost always referring to the Signature Series since that is all I ever use or recommend. While Amsoil does not divulge the Sig Series recipe it is widely known that Amsoil's Sig base stock is a PAO (or Group IV) synthetic oil with Group V in the blend. Secondly it was confirmed by an Amsoil engineer when I asked. However the OE and XL series are not all PAO based oils. They are, from my understanding, mostly Group III oils like Castrol and Mobile one. I believe this info was in the newsletter but I can't remember. This was done to lower the cost obviously and create an Amsoil for people who like to change their oil frequently.*

Personally I don't think the OE and XL oils are worth the cost; I use the Sig Series with a bypass filter so I can take advantage of extended drain intervals. I drive approximately 30,000 miles a year (75% towing a trailer) and I change my oil twice a year.*

I do wish they were more forthcoming but I'm sure it's a legal thing.*

I hope that clears things up for you.*
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  #35  
Old 02-11-2012, 11:22 PM
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I switched to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. For my warranty on my truck, I purchased the oil and had Dodge dealership do the oil changed so they still had records when oil changes were done.
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  #36  
Old 02-12-2012, 06:52 AM
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Is anyone using the new Royal Purple oil filter? I seen whats inside and I am sold, but the problem is no one stocks them locally. I am going to have to order over the internet, and its a real pain, when I want to do a spur of the moment oil change. Is anyone else have trouble finding them in their town?

I just switched over, but it was snowing oats here, so I stopped at the Valvoline shop. Never again will I do that. I do want to get mine on a time frame so I can change it in the fall and spring so I don't have to worry about it in the middle of winter since I don't have a garage. I can tell a difference in using the synthetic oil. It seams like the engine is able spool up a little faster, and runs a couple hundred rpms lower while cruising. I know it could be a placebo effect, but I will give it time.
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:25 AM
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I understand that synthetic oil lasts longer before loosing it's lubrication properties.
So in theory, you can go longer between oil changes.
But, isn't the other purpose of changing your oil to dump the contaminants that get in the oil?
Isn't that why the oil is dark after a while?
I plan to put in synthetic at my next oil change, but I'm not sure about extending the oil change interval as much as some do.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:31 AM
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^you are right, but that's also what a good filter is for.
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  #39  
Old 02-12-2012, 09:07 AM
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So, if you use synthetic, you still change the filter at the recommended interval?
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
So, if you use synthetic, you still change the filter at the recommended interval?
It depends; There are extended interval filters that are good to 15k or some good to 25k miles. Even a "regular" filter though should be good for at least 5k miles, maybe even 10k miles.

Some things I want to say to maybe clarify the synthetic/conventional oil debate:

Just because oil is synthetic, you can't say it's good for X miles. There are different types and qualities of synthetic oil. Some lasts 5,000 miles, some 7,500 miles, some 10,000 miles, some 15,000 miles, some 25,000 miles, etc... The use matters as well; if you race regularly, tow regularly, etc... the oil probably won't last as long.

I like synthetic oil but still like to change it often because I prefer to flush/cycle it. I change mine at about 7,500 miles and use Amsoil OE oil(cheapest amsoil oil) and use a WIX filter. I sometimes race/drive hard so I don't want to push it. The oil is usually black by the time I change it.

Conventional oil is typically good for at least 3,000 miles. Now the maintenance schedule in my truck says I think 6,000 miles or something, and you can use conventional. I'm sure it would be fine, but it is probably pretty well broken down I'd bet by that time. The synthetic should hold up much better at that mileage(even cheap synthetic).

There are bad filters (cheap frams for example) and good filters (WIX, Napa, mopar, etc...) and this has to due with the type of seals in them (cardboard vs rubber) and the type of drain back valve (if it even has one). There are also "regular" interval filters and "extended" interval filters. If you change your oil anything under 10,000 miles a regular filter should suffice. If you go beyond that you probably will want a extended interval filter or change the filter in between oil changes.

Basically just because an oil says it's good for X miles doesn't necessarily mean that's spot on, it depends on MANY variables, so the best thing to do is pick an oil that fits your needs (mileage based, time based, and use based) and monitor it to see how the color of it changes, and more importantly how the viscosity of it changes. When it gets black and more importantly "watery" instead of "oily" then it's time to change it.

I hope this helps at all...
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