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  #1  
Old 02-02-2012, 12:03 PM
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Question Sudden starting issue, again?

Yesterday evening around 3pm I went to the store and back, parked in the drive and started dinner about 60 degrees outside ( last and only time it was driven yesterday ) I got up this morning to go to the doctor at 8am, its cold only 34 degrees out and windows are frosted, got it the truck and tried to start it but it wont fire up. It cranks over but just wont start.... WTF? It has been running fine ever since this summer when you guys said it was probly the fuel pump relay ( which it was ) but now what? Why would it run just fine one day and not even try to start the next? I tried to locate the crankshaft position sensor on the passenger side of the bellhousing but dont see anything from the bottom and I cant see anything at all from the top ( view obstructed from the top ) where exactly is it located on the passenger side ( refering to a clock face looking at the motor from the front eg: 10 o'clock , 11 o'clock ect...ect... )
Thanks for any help on this issue... I am going to go out and see if I can hear the fuel pump as soon as I can get a hand from someone to turn the key while Im under there.

I am hoping to get this fixed today since its nice ( up near 60's already ) but gonna rain tomorrow and all weekend here.... really sucks that it wont start, tested the battery and it tested good.
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Last edited by sonocativo; 02-02-2012 at 01:15 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2012, 11:03 PM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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You may think I'm nutz, but if you can't see spark at the distributor end of the coil wire, get yourself an electric fence tester for $9, ground one end and stick the probe in the coil wire end, don't do the test 1st at the coil end of the wire, cuz you're checking the coil wire too, if no leds light up, check it at the coil. fence checkers are easy to see illuminated. I've had coils just up and die on me before...
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:37 AM
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Nope, I can agree with that. I listened and had my wife listen and cannot hear the fuel pump.... sooooo, the relay gets replaced first since its cheap. Then Ill keep checkin stuff and the site for suggestions. Next Ill try starting fluid.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:58 AM
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Caled the autoparts store and the relay is under warranty so, gonna replace that first and see what happens, hoping it isnt the pump itself but at 246863 miles on the odometer it very well could be. Gonna check spark in a bit here... hope its good from there.
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Old 02-03-2012, 02:38 PM
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Thump tank with a shovel handle if you cannot hear it pump up, you can generally get a little more life out of em that way, Good luck!!!
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:47 PM
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Got the relay, glad it was under warranty as I paid $12 for it and the new replacement one was $23... different brand... wow. That didnt fix it so its raining now if it stops Ill check for spark tomorrow.....
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Old 02-04-2012, 12:29 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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RamFan let me know about an air temp sensor mounted behind the alternator on the intake, which would definately affect cold startability. I have a cold idle prob with my 98, and I think he has the cure, When I dig out of this snowbank, I'm going to look into this, I tend to not drive the 98 in the winter, trying to save the body from the salt. It strikes me as this sensor may be exactly what ails your truck, as well. (It may be simply unplugged!!) And Many Thanks, RamFan!!!
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Old 02-04-2012, 03:10 PM
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Thanks, I will look into that as well since I had that stuff off to change the water pump and a tune up, might have knocked it loose. But still dont know why it would run and drive then not start the next morning...weird huh...lol
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:15 PM
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sonocativo sonocativo is offline
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Ok, It cranks good, battery tested good, I got spark, it just wont fire up so I guess that narrows it down to 2 items... fuel pump or crankshaft position sensor? How do I test to see if there is fuel pressure at the rails? and I cannot get to the crankshaft position sensor, I see the 2 wires in the loom and can feel them till they go into what feels like a nickle sized hole in the 10-11o'clock position of the bell housing... but I cannot see anything, does anyone have any pictures or know how to change that easily? Thanks. And if anyone is up to changing the CPS let me know, I am in Festus, Mo.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:31 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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I made my own gauge, out of a fix aflat can (well, the hose, that is). The pressure check is a schrader valve, very similar to a tire stem. BUT, not quite. the core sits down a little further than that of a tire, so to depress it, you have to do one of two things, 1. remove the core, 2. get your depresser thing longer, (OK, 3.) buy the gauge assy, for a few $$, (pretty expensive actually, or I'd've bought one, as I remember) I've always got junk laying around, so I was fortunate and found a used up fixaflat can, took the hose assy off, extended the hose to about 5', put a gauge on it, and whah lah. I was quite lucky, as I had a pop rivet readily available, and I deformed the part that squishes, removed the stem, and it works quite well. The pressure check is on the drivers side top of engine, sort of in the middle, above the valve cover, with a screw off dust cap. 45 PSI and rock steady. Bet you haven't any pressure, but in the past, my pumps have always died a slow death, either intermittant, or HP gradually decreasing. They aren't like the old days, when starvation was obvious. The crank sensor idea is just plain no fun, from what I've heard, sounds like a job I'd pay someone to do, b ut I don't think its the prob anyway...
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