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  #11  
Old 02-13-2012, 09:18 PM
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Ill stand by mymanual over an auto any day. I have both at my disposal. Ill take my 5.2 2 wheel over dads 5.9 4x4 auto for towing. my sister in laws cavi and tandem axle 20 ft. trailer 45 miles and still got 15 mpg! I was shocked.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2012, 11:42 PM
Mopartruckin Mopartruckin is offline
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Originally Posted by ramfam View Post
Ill stand by mymanual over an auto any day. I have both at my disposal. Ill take my 5.2 2 wheel over dads 5.9 4x4 auto for towing. my sister in laws cavi and tandem axle 20 ft. trailer 45 miles and still got 15 mpg! I was shocked.

I totally agree!!!! I hate automatic chassis oilers!!!! I wish I had a manual in the truck. I would swap it over in a heartbeat if I had the cash and a good parts truck. Hell with my 5.9l I am lucky to get 15MPG doing anything.
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mopartruckin View Post
I totally agree!!!! I hate automatic chassis oilers!!!! I wish I had a manual in the truck. I would swap it over in a heartbeat if I had the cash and a good parts truck. Hell with my 5.9l I am lucky to get 15MPG doing anything.
The 5.9L isn't very efficient not because of the transmission, it's actually the engine. I have had both the 5.2 and 5.9 and I can personally say the 5.9L is thirsty. The 5.2L isn't as bad, but for the most part it does well for what it is. I can tow GCWVR of around 12000 Lbs and manage to get 10-12 MPG doing about 60-70MPH. The 5.2L I think performs well when towing. Some may disagree and say the 5.9L is best for towing but the 5.2L still packs a punch. Their are many little things that could be done to help improve overall efficiency, for example if the front of the truck is lowered and an airdam is installed this will help with the airo dynamics a little bit, also if you can manage to keep the engine cooler when towing you can avoid using higher octane gasolines, when I towed my 32' trailer I managed to tow using plain old regular and had no knocking, amazing part was this was with the original radiator. A small change to the intake and exhaust system can help a bit, and most of all keeping the engine clean will have the largest effect overall. I have read that if you get a high speed balanced driveshaft that is lighter then stock their is less rotational drag thus increasing horse power.

The automatic transmissions sure isn't as efficient as a manual but only by about 5-10% and if you're able to rebuild the auto transmission with the proper performance components then the efficiency is greatly increased. Keeping the transmission fluid cool alone will not only increase life of the transmission but reduce slip. Actually in towing it isn't even the transmission it's really the engine, the only problem is that the auto requires a slightly higher running engine RPM, so gas mileage suffers a little bit.

The choice of manual over auto is strictly personal, their are many studies that have provided information that confirm the efficiency of the manual transmission but you have to think 5-10% isn't a whole lot. When towing aerodynamics are really out the window, but their is still little things that can be done, most of the times with cardboard lol...

I take an auto over manual because for me it's easier to rebuild and cheaper.

Their are some autos that actually outperform manuals in towing!
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2012, 07:37 PM
Mopartruckin Mopartruckin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
I can't wait to I order my dynotech shaft in apri, I am so excited. OH BOY!!!!

So the saga continues. I just got the truck back for the second time and ir running great. When I got the truck back it wasnt throwing any codes, but 2 days ago the engine light came on. I had the code read and I am getting code P1740 TCC or overdrive solenoid perfomance. WTF?????? Shouldnt all this stuff in there be new now? I am gonna call the shop tomorrow. FYI the truck is running fine. What do you think?
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2012, 07:41 PM
Mopartruckin Mopartruckin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
The 5.9L isn't very efficient not because of the transmission, it's actually the engine. I have had both the 5.2 and 5.9 and I can personally say the 5.9L is thirsty. The 5.2L isn't as bad, but for the most part it does well for what it is. I can tow GCWVR of around 12000 Lbs and manage to get 10-12 MPG doing about 60-70MPH. The 5.2L I think performs well when towing. Some may disagree and say the 5.9L is best for towing but the 5.2L still packs a punch. Their are many little things that could be done to help improve overall efficiency, for example if the front of the truck is lowered and an airdam is installed this will help with the airo dynamics a little bit, also if you can manage to keep the engine cooler when towing you can avoid using higher octane gasolines, when I towed my 32' trailer I managed to tow using plain old regular and had no knocking, amazing part was this was with the original radiator. A small change to the intake and exhaust system can help a bit, and most of all keeping the engine clean will have the largest effect overall. I have read that if you get a high speed balanced driveshaft that is lighter then stock their is less rotational drag thus increasing horse power.

The automatic transmissions sure isn't as efficient as a manual but only by about 5-10% and if you're able to rebuild the auto transmission with the proper performance components then the efficiency is greatly increased. Keeping the transmission fluid cool alone will not only increase life of the transmission but reduce slip. Actually in towing it isn't even the transmission it's really the engine, the only problem is that the auto requires a slightly higher running engine RPM, so gas mileage suffers a little bit.

The choice of manual over auto is strictly personal, their are many studies that have provided information that confirm the efficiency of the manual transmission but you have to think 5-10% isn't a whole lot. When towing aerodynamics are really out the window, but their is still little things that can be done, most of the times with cardboard lol...

I take an auto over manual because for me it's easier to rebuild and cheaper.

Their are some autos that actually outperform manuals in towing!
You are wealth on knowledge, I appreciate your help and comments. If I ever need a rebuild again I will take it out, ship it to you and be done with it!!!!!!!!
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  #16  
Old 02-19-2012, 07:57 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by Mopartruckin View Post
So the saga continues. I just got the truck back for the second time and ir running great. When I got the truck back it wasnt throwing any codes, but 2 days ago the engine light came on. I had the code read and I am getting code P1740 TCC or overdrive solenoid perfomance. WTF?????? Shouldnt all this stuff in there be new now? I am gonna call the shop tomorrow. FYI the truck is running fine. What do you think?
Their can be a short somewhere in the circuit, most likely the solenoid was never actually replaced, alot of times people just connect an ohm meter to the solenoids and they're like ok it passes but the solenoid will attract the metal powder that is produced from the planet gears and clog the solenoid up. Another boo boo is that a majority of the original solenoids that came on the transmissions didn't have a gasket with a screen, if you buy a gasket for the solenoid it has a screen to filter out large pieces of debries, honestly I couldn't even tell you what would be causing that code to pop up, it could be anything, even a bad torque converter which is certainly possible, the clutch doesn't last forever. But I would ask them if they replaced that solenoid and bring to bible to scare the truth out of them!

But even though I cannot tell you exactly what's wrong, I can atleast tell you where to look, I would probably first like said check the wiring made sure their aren't any cuts or anything out of the ordinary, the next thing I would do is to have the vehicle connected to a full diagnostic scanner not a plain code reader, I'm talking about a tool such as a snap on mt2500, because you can get sensor readings and activate certain solenoids etc, this is very helpful.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2012, 07:59 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by Mopartruckin View Post
You are wealth on knowledge, I appreciate your help and comments. If I ever need a rebuild again I will take it out, ship it to you and be done with it!!!!!!!!
My garage door is always open, oh did they replace the torque converter, it's always smart to do that with any rebuild. Torque converters well stock replacements only run ball park 150 dollars, I got mine for 120 and it works well.
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2012, 08:06 PM
Mopartruckin Mopartruckin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
My garage door is always open, oh did they replace the torque converter, it's always smart to do that with any rebuild. Torque converters well stock replacements only run ball park 150 dollars, I got mine for 120 and it works well.
I will list what the parts break down says:

Master overhaul kit
Bushing kit
Torrington bearing kit
Valve body kit
Heavy duty torque converter ($261.20)
Front band
rear band assembly
govenor pressure solenoid
govenor pressure tranducer
atf
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  #19  
Old 02-19-2012, 08:08 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopartruckin View Post
I will list what the parts break down says:

Master overhaul kit
Bushing kit
Torrington bearing kit
Valve body kit
Heavy duty torque converter ($261.20)
Front band
rear band assembly
govenor pressure solenoid
govenor pressure tranducer
atf
And how much did you pay for the rebuild? Oh they forgot the OD/TCC solenoid, they probably just did an ohm test and passed it. The signal from the ECM is a PWM which is known to cause issues with the clutch, usually a slight shudder.
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  #20  
Old 02-19-2012, 08:12 PM
Mopartruckin Mopartruckin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
And how much did you pay for the rebuild? Oh they forgot the OD/TCC solenoid, they probably just did an ohm test and passed it. The signal from the ECM is a PWM which is known to cause issues with the clutch, usually a slight shudder.

total parts was $1365.30, labor was $1261
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