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Old 02-27-2012, 12:43 PM
micar71 micar71 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Texas
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Vehicle: 2011 Dodge Ram
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Engine: 2008-20?? 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 310hp 330lb/ft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidNightExpress View Post
Well I thought I read here that by locking into 5th gear it shut off the MDS? I could be wrong on that cause I have only had the truck 1 week.

The 150 miles is how many the HEMI has. His truck has about 2,600 miles. I'm 100% sure he has no mods on truck.

What did you all do or NOT do during the break in period? At what mileage is it considered broke in?

Thats true about the fuel my truck has the bigger 32 gallon tank. That could be an extra 200 lbs in fuel.

You guys talk about eating these 5.3 what years are your trucks?

Does anyone know if something changed in the 2012 model?
Break in period: Be kind to the metal parts and drive like feeding your family depends on MPG. Everyone has different opinions on "break-in" periods. I believe it depends on what the truck had already been put through/exposed to. Maybe 1000 - 2000 miles. Change oil. Me, personally, driving 20 miles one way to work, I drive like an old man for MPG reasons, but after my first oil change I had to get on it just once

I have a 2011, 4.7. I took a 5.3. ....but at the .5 mile mark I swear I saw wings, jet air intakes, external fuel tanks, and rocket pods because he was gaining on me like a jet fighter, as if I took my foot off the gas. I believe the Hemi would have made a HUGE difference at that point. At least I know what mine will do at the beginning (damn near dry weight - shhh... no one knew).

Gears: As mentioned earlier, manually placing your transmission in 2nd gear will only allow you to proceed to 2nd gear and not beyond this gear. Growing up we were exposed to true "manual" transmissions in which WE decided which gear to place it in when "WE" wished to do so. If you wanted to start in second or third gear then you could. Now days, everything is electronic. Which means you kinda have to out smart the computer. You can't bypass a gear, BUT what you can do is control how long you stay in a gear, how high you run the RPM for that gear, and when you want to up shift to the next higher gear.
*THERE ARE MANY CONTRIBUTING FACTORS THAT WILL/WOULD EFFECT HOW/WHEN TO UPSHIFT:
-How much throttle
-Rate of acceleration
-Drag factor (resistance of the surface - traction, rate of acceleration, weight)
-Tires *(I've heard people in passing make reckless statements such as "...let some air out of your tires for greater tread to surface contact..." DEAR GOD DON'T DO THIS!!! Your side walls can heat up quickly and weaken the integrity of the seam between the tire tread and the sidewall. ALSO, if you should have to take evasive action, a quick turn of the wheel WILL cause a significant weight shift to the front trailing wheel, causing that one tire to take the brunt of the load, causing the side walls to bulge, and because of the combo of outward lean from cintrifugal force and overheated sidewalls, the tire bead that is supposed to be sealed against the wheel rim by means of proper tire inflation, will break loose. Basically, the tire breaks loose from the wheel, your sharp edged wheel rim has now become an anchor point to dig into the ground and stick and you might get to see the world in a clockwise or counter clockwise point of view as you roll your truck (depending on which direction you turned your wheel). I hope I scared the hell out of you or at least gave you a greater respect for tire inflation if you didn't already. I've investigated some BAD crashes.

Without killing your engine and hopefully I'm not insulting your intelligence, here's a simple guide:
-Don't upshift to the next higher gear until the current gear is high enough to place the next higher gear in or about it's mid-range. EXAMPLE (emphasis) If it is normal for the automatic transmission to upshift from 2nd gear to third gear under normal driving conditions at or about 2300 - 2400 rpm, then it would be greater during harder acceleration before the automatic transmission upshifted from 2nd to 3rd. As long as there is a certain amount of force placed on one particular gear during acceleration, the computer is not going to upshift until it knows the next higher gear can safely handle the current speed with the lack of torque that the next higher gear does not possess.
- The higher the gear, the less torque. Don't confuse torque with horse power. Torque is what lifts your dead @$$ off the couch...lol
- Now, lets take it a little further and make sure you gently practice this from normal driving and work your way up to what it is you are wanting to accomplish.
- Find some flat ground.
- GET ON IT!
- Pay attention to the RPM for each gear and at what point it shifts to the next gear. Keep an eye on your speed, but for now mostly the rpm.
- Listen to the sound of your engine during this and get used to it - by the way, my factory exhaust actually got a little louder around 7000 miles
- If you have to, write it down, or have your smart phone or digital recorder running as you call out the rpm number when it shifts.
- Now, lets try manually up shifting. Place it in 2nd. Start out with normal driving for a little bit. Up shift manually to 3rd, 4th, ..... until you get the feel for it.
- When you think you are ready, go find some flat ground.
- GET ON IT!
- WATCH THE RPMs FOR EACH GEAR!!!
- This time you are going to have to give a little more attention to the speed while continuing to focus on the RPM.
- When you have obtain about or close to the max speed for that gear *AND your RPM's are a little bit higher than what the automatic decided was good for upshifting, then you should upshift.
- This will allow the vehicle to continue to accelerate more efficiently in terms of speed because the next higher gear will not have to focus on dishing out as much torque because the previous gear already covered the lower spectrum of the next gear. (2nd gear mowed his lawn and crossed in to 3rd gear's lawn and mowed the first 1/3 of it for him - just an analogy for an example) - depending on how much speed and gas.

The next step (you'll like this part because it will help the with the earlier step). Manually place it in 5th by hitting the "tow/haul" activation switch.
-If you didn't know this already, guess what this does? That's right! It runs the RPM's up higher because it's saying "...Hey! I've got something to haul!" It just doesn't know that it has to "haul" @$$... lol.

Good luck
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Be true to yourself so you can be true to others.
Be good to yourself so you can be good to others.
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