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Custom Dodge Ram - Complete Builds When you are modding everything on your Dodge Ram, this is the place to showcase the build.


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  #81  
Old 06-14-2012, 03:28 AM
double0ram double0ram is offline
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well there has been no shortage of photos... the masses are pleased!
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  #82  
Old 06-14-2012, 05:11 AM
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Reading through this is making me think about cam work now for my truck. Also makes me think that I can do it myself.. which if I followed this write up I probably could. Hmmm... this may be something for me to look into next Spring... Engine work is coming along great and the photos with detailed how-to's is amazing man, keep it up
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  #83  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:54 AM
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I was nervous to try this myself without any supervision from a mechanic friend, but after failing to get our schedules to match for 2 months I finally gave it a go myself. Overall it wasn't too bad and very do-able for anyone with moderate mechanical skill.
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  #84  
Old 06-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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I do know that I will be purchasing a lot more tools before I try this myself though. My buddy down in York has a garage that I will be able to use so that will be nice instead of trying to do it all outside. It's coming along great man, can't wait to see more pics of your progress. I got a feeling I don't want to know but how much did your parts cost come out to? PM me if you don't want to put it up on the main page.
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  #85  
Old 06-14-2012, 07:47 PM
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It's no secret on parts cost, you could look it up online if you really wanted to, but this time cost is around $5k, but that includes the cost of having the heads ported. There aren't too many tools that you need to do this swap, and the specialty tools can all be rented from parts stores.
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  #86  
Old 06-14-2012, 11:31 PM
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Really? that's actually pretty good for having the heads ported along with everything else.
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  #87  
Old 06-16-2012, 01:17 AM
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It's been a couple of late nights getting it all finished up, not to mention making the fiancee fairly mad because I haven't been home at night because of the 'damned truck'. But after firing it up today and taking it for a 'gentle' rip up the highway, it was ALL worth it.

So, continuing with the write up...

Installed the new water pump, the old one had a broken impeller blade and I put a few coats of DupliColor 'clear effex', just a clear coat with metallic flake in it, turned out pretty nice if I do say so myself.





I then reinstalled the heads with the headers attached, going in was MUCH easier than the removal for some reason, it could be that I finally succumbed and pulled the A/C compressor out of the way by bleeding it down and removing it from the condenser cooler by the rad (need to get the system recharged now though). When installing the heads I used the extra thick Cometic layered gasket, make sure you align the head gasket properly, they are clearly marked with TOP and R or L; the driverside gasket has an extra drain hole so it's important to make sure all holes are ligned up properly. Take your time with the head torque sequence until each step in the sequence has been completed properly before moving onto the next torque. We don't have enough room to really do a full 90 degree turn on the bolts, but if you are good with angles and have a 250ft-lb toque wrench or a ratcheting break bar you can get pretty darned close with 'best guess' torquing. In this pic you can see that I have begun to rewire the oem engine wiring harness.



I followed this up by installing the new dampner; I went with the Summit 20% underdrive pulley. I had rented a balancer puller/installation kit, but sadly it really doesn't do that well with our dampners due to the very long depth of the crank shaft's nose compared to the face of the dampner. My friend has done a few of these and recommended a much simpler and overall easier way to do it... if you have air tools (which we did). I set a heat gun to heat the dampner's shaft for about 30 min and using gloves push the dampner onto the crank sharf as far as it will go. Thread the old crank bolt into the shaft and using a 21mm socket and impact driver, drive the dampner onto the crank shaft until it won't go anymore. A small tip here is to run some lubricant on the oil seal to help it slide along the dampner shaft rather than stick and pull it in.



Once that was all set in place I continued with the heads, installing the push rods and rocker arm assemblies. With these, the longer push rods are the exhaust and the shorter ones are the intake rods. Set the rods in place making sure you get them aligned with the holes to the lifters and not in one of the oil galleries (a common mistake I've been told). Try to tighten all the rocker rods down evenly so you don't warp them and then torque them to spec with the proper sequence.





After the push rods and rockers are in place I installed the valver covers. A word of caution, check the torque setting of your torque wrech before torquing anything down to save yourself the headache of twisting one of these small bolts off

With the valve covers in place it was time for the intake maifold. Using the OEM Eagle intake manifold gaskets, take your time and get everything aligned properly, having either tiny fingers or a very long and small allen wrench you can move the gasket around to match the bolt holes of the manifold. Torque the maniofold down using the recommended torque sequence, basically just make an X across the manifold each time and it torques down nicely.



Next up is what took me a while: getting everything to work with the modified timing cover, bracket, nitrous plate/throttle body, and accessories. This would have been much easier if I did not have the nitrous plate, however I was determined to keep the plate and not tap my new carbon fiber ram air intake.

Using a grinder I took more off of the timing cover and the Inertia mounting bracket. This took a fair amount of grind and check, but in the end it was worth it. Everything fits nicely, the bracket is still strong with plenty of mounting strength and I got keep the nitrous plate.

First is the way the mounting bracket comes, note the large allen socket in the center, the threaded hole had to be ground away to fit the throttle body and nitrous plate.




You can see the tolerances are VERY tight, but it all fits.
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  #88  
Old 06-16-2012, 02:17 AM
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CdnoilRAM CdnoilRAM is offline
I push the skinny pedal


 
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Vehicle: 2009 Blown 349 Hemi
Trim Level: Sport - Modified
Color: Brilliant Black/Snake Skin Green
Engine: 2009-2012 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 390hp 407lb/ft
Rep Power: 20
Rep:3236
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Here are some in progress shots, thank god my friend had a big shop, I have a very bad tendancy to spread out when I'm working on stuff!





The next day I started to tackle the accessories, fuel system, vacuum lines, and wiring. I apparently did not take any photos of the fuel system, but i used the Billet Technology -8AN fuel rails, Speedlogix cross-over kit, many -8AN fittings from my local speed shop, as well some good ol' trial and error. I also had to mount my nitrous management unit at this point so I would not have to bleed the fuel system down to install the nitrous on my next set of days off.

Let's look at the accessories. Both the alternator and the A/C compressor reuse the old mounting bolts, so be sure to keep the around and label them accordingly as I had stated to do in an earlier post. The alternator is VERY straight forward, it just bolts into place, simple. I did run the alternator-fuse box wire under the intake manifold as there is lots of room and it really keeps everything tidy.



The A/C compressor has been getting in my way this entire time and has been a headache... so why should that change? Getting this to fit does require permanent modification of the unit. You need to cut off a mounting lug that is no longer used once you use the new bracket.





Once this lug is removed, the usit just drops into place and bolts up nicely.



Here's what it looks like once everything is mounted properly



Next up is the wiring. There are 3 things that need to be rerouted, and they are the MAP sensor plug, IAT sensor plug, and the throttle body plug. The MAP sensor wiring is long enough once you remove all the OEM looming to reach the back of the manifold where the 6.1L MAP sensor is located. The ones that require modification are the TB and the IAT plugs. You can see that the plug isn't long enough to reach the new locations.



I spliced and soldered one foot of 22ga lead to each of the wires in the harnesses as that was enough to reach the new locations. Every time I do a modification there must me some sort of personal injury, it's inevitable, and typically painful. Now is the time for that injury... I ended up trying to solder my thumb to the soldering iron and that made the remaining 2 days interesting since I was now only working with 1 good thumb.

After treating my thumb for second degree burns and being laughed at by my friend (what else are friends good for?) I moved on to the vacuum lines. There are 2 that need to be dealt with. The easy one is the Master Cylinder line. Using a 54"length of vacuum rated 3/8" hose (I used rad/oil heater hose) I plugged it into the back of the 6.1L manifold's port (next to the MAP sensor) and routed the hose around the back of the motor to plug into the master cyclinder's vacuum port. Simple.

The harder one is the small 1/4" vacuum line to the device below the fuse box. I have no idea what it is to be honest, but having looked at all of the hemi powere vehicles, it's there, I just wish I knew what it was called.



You can see that I cut the existing hose away from the main fitting as this allowed to me use some regular synflex line (available from your local parts store, or if you're lucky to have a parts jeep like my friend did).



Using the rubber coupler from the old intake manifold, I ran the line up and beside the #1 coil pack and to the vacuum port on the driver-side of the intake manifold directly behind the throttle body. Using a 8" piece of rubber hose I made a nice gentle sweep to the *unknown named device* and then for appearance's sake, wraped it all in looming.





With that all completed I mounted the power steering pump, belt tensioner, idler pulleys, and hooked the heater core hoses back up to the water pump. Then I ran the new serpentine belt. You can see the new routing of the belt; it is not the same as OEM and has much less contact with the underdrive pulley. The belt used is the same length as the stock one, just different routing.



Mounted the radiator, the new Legmaker carbon fiber Hammer intake, Big Bully catch can, relocated the washer fluid tank, filled the rad, did an oil change, hooked the transmission cooler lines back up and made a few cosmetic changes.

Here is the final product! A total of 42 hours of work, one burnt thumb and sore back/knees, a few choice curse words, support and help from a great friend, a mad fiancee, and one bad assed truck... audio/video will coming, but my camera sucks at video and sound.



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  #89  
Old 06-16-2012, 02:25 AM
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CdnoilRAM CdnoilRAM is offline
I push the skinny pedal


 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Calgary, AB, CA
Age: 30
Posts: 16,989
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2009 Blown 349 Hemi
Trim Level: Sport - Modified
Color: Brilliant Black/Snake Skin Green
Engine: 2009-2012 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 390hp 407lb/ft
Rep Power: 20
Rep:3236
CdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond reputeCdnoilRAM has a reputation beyond repute
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In all, I would say this project requires only moderate mechanical ability, if you can change spark plugs or change a water pump then you can do this. Time, patience, good resources (like this forum and others out there), a helping hand for some of the akward/heavy stuff, and access to a parts store are the most important things. I did a lot of referencing of my *other* forum as it has a detailed how-to on cam/head swaps, so if anyone wants that link, just PM me as I can not post it in the open forum; and my Hanes manual was good for torque specs and other misc info.

If anyone else wants to try this themselves, I say go for it, it's not nearly as difficult as I thought it would be considering I went into this never having taken a motor apart before and believed that engine internals were all hoodoo-voodoo and black magic.

Video/audio to come, as well as a few pics of the fuel system, probably Sunday since I have to make the fiancee happy with me again as I neglected her all week to work on the truck.
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  #90  
Old 06-16-2012, 06:53 AM
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Looks absolutely amazing man. Can't wait for the audio and video on this. This will definitely be on my list of things to do, but won't be happenin for a little bit yet sadly lol. Really like how everything comes together and it definitely suites your truck just right. Reps for all of this, the write up and the pics. (When I can that is lol) I do know though when I do attempt this that this section of your thread will definitely be open.
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