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  #11  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
Excellent responses here, lots of good tips and info. I will get the 35's but stay relatively small on the rim size to avoid unsprung weight as much as possible. An 18'' rim should be fine although a 20'' looks better IMO. My 4:10's are pretty torquey, I couldn't imagine what 4:56's must be like.
Lets just say it easily makes a smoke show out of 37" swampers
Click Below.....

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  #12  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:39 PM
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I almost got the Kore kit, I liked it a lot. The only thing I didn't like was even though it lifts the front about 2 1/2-3", it does not re-center the axle and it uses the stock control arms. The wider 35" tires are still going to rub some. Even Kore and Carli state you should buy the adjustable track bar to center the axle with these kits, and then your priced higher than several of the 6" kits. Thats one reason I ended up doing a 5" (4" rear) kit, and so I could run 37" tires if I wanted later.

The 1/2 ton P/U is usually closer to optimal gearing (for MPG) than the 3/4 tons. The 1/2 tons have to print their MPG, the 3/4 ton trucks don't, so they gear them low to claim big towing numbers. IMO, unless you pull heavy loads, crawl it or want drag racing type performance, your better off with a little higher gearing than stock (2500s). I pull a Toyhauler, but never pull anything close to what these things are rated at. If I had 4.11 gears, I'd probably have gone with 37" tires, but with my 3.73, I decided I'd play it safe and stay with 35". I doub't I'd see better MPG with 4.10 gearing, probably worse. But a tuner on a program to get better MPG would help, probably a lot. If you decide to get 4.56 gearing, I'd be interested in the 4.10, because that would be great gearing for me with 35" or 37" tires.

Heres a chart you can use to understand the gearing/tire sizes better;



The chart is divided into three categories. The rpm highlighted in black are optimum for the tire size and ratio combination. These will most closely give you the best overall drivability. If you're looking for a ratio that will give better fuel economy for highway driving at the expense of some acceleration and overall performance, choose a ratio in the yellow shaded area. If you're looking for a ratio that will improve acceleration and towing power at the expense of some fuel economy, choose a ratio in the blue shaded area.

Again, with almost 400 H/P, I think we can easily get away with the bottom end of the yellow section. With a 230 H/P motor, I'd want to be in the black. I'm pulling my Toyhauler loaded up to a race this weekend, so I'll see how she does pulling.

If your really bored, this was the link of my build. It includes the installation with pics of my lift kit, Bilstein shocks, Bilstein stabilizer, Detroit Tru-track in the front Diff, 35" tires, Magnaflow muffler with a Y-pipe and even a axle flip on my Toyhauler to get it lifetd 5" as well.

http://ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=98599

Last edited by Raynval; 02-24-2012 at 10:42 PM.
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  #13  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:51 PM
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^^ Thats a very very generic chart.....generic enough its off 600rpms with my truck with 4.56s and 37s



EDIT.........what and where are those rpms at?? Is it saying optimum performance or what. Now Im just confused and my post is retarded haha
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  #14  
Old 02-24-2012, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by candy08 View Post
Lets just say it easily makes a smoke show out of 37" swampers
Click Below.....

Holy crap! spinning 37's!??
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  #15  
Old 02-24-2012, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raynval View Post
I almost got the Kore kit, I liked it a lot. The only thing I didn't like was even though it lifts the front about 2 1/2-3", it does not re-center the axle and it uses the stock control arms. The wider 35" tires are still going to rub some. Even Kore and Carli state you should buy the adjustable track bar to center the axle with these kits, and then your priced higher than several of the 6" kits. Thats one reason I ended up doing a 5" (4" rear) kit, and so I could run 37" tires if I wanted later.

The 1/2 ton P/U is usually closer to optimal gearing (for MPG) than the 3/4 tons. The 1/2 tons have to print their MPG, the 3/4 ton trucks don't, so they gear them low to claim big towing numbers. IMO, unless you pull heavy loads, crawl it or want drag racing type performance, your better off with a little higher gearing than stock (2500s). I pull a Toyhauler, but never pull anything close to what these things are rated at. If I had 4.11 gears, I'd probably have gone with 37" tires, but with my 3.73, I decided I'd play it safe and stay with 35". I doub't I'd see better MPG with 4.10 gearing, probably worse. But a tuner on a program to get better MPG would help, probably a lot. If you decide to get 4.56 gearing, I'd be interested in the 4.10, because that would be great gearing for me with 35" or 37" tires.

Heres a chart you can use to understand the gearing/tire sizes better;



The chart is divided into three categories. The rpm highlighted in black are optimum for the tire size and ratio combination. These will most closely give you the best overall drivability. If you're looking for a ratio that will give better fuel economy for highway driving at the expense of some acceleration and overall performance, choose a ratio in the yellow shaded area. If you're looking for a ratio that will improve acceleration and towing power at the expense of some fuel economy, choose a ratio in the blue shaded area.

Again, with almost 400 H/P, I think we can easily get away with the bottom end of the yellow section. With a 230 H/P motor, I'd want to be in the black. I'm pulling my Toyhauler loaded up to a race this weekend, so I'll see how she does pulling.

If your really bored, this was the link of my build. It includes the installation with pics of my lift kit, Bilstein shocks, Bilstein stabilizer, Detroit Tru-track in the front Diff, 35" tires, Magnaflow muffler with a Y-pipe and even a axle flip on my Toyhauler to get it lifetd 5" as well.

http://ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=98599

The chart helped but it put me at 33's. Like you said with 400HP there is room there to play so I'll go with the 35's. Thanks man.
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  #16  
Old 02-24-2012, 11:48 PM
StoneyWV StoneyWV is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by candy08 View Post
^^ Thats a very very generic chart.....generic enough its off 600rpms with my truck with 4.56s and 37s



EDIT.........what and where are those rpms at?? Is it saying optimum performance or what. Now Im just confused and my post is retarded haha

Most of these charts do not take into account the gearing in our transmissions. They are designed around the average transmission in trucks and jeeps from about 8-15 years ago and haven't changed since. The final gears in the new transmissions allow for better MPG, so you can get away with a lower gear. Like 4.56 instead of 4.10 easily without seeing a nasty MPG impact.
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2012, 02:17 PM
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I've got the 295/65/20 Nitto Trail Grapplers and with the factory wheels have a little bit of a rub when you turn the steering wheel all the way to the lock. I picked up some 1/4" spacers but haven't put them on yet because I was told the "hub-centric" wheel might have some problems with spacers....now my guys might have been talking about REAL spacers so I'll have to see.

Anyhow, the Nittos run fairly true to size, if not a little big, I think the final figure on mine was 35.5. Currently I have 3.92, but was thinking of going to the 4.56s in the future because going from the factory height (33) to 35 killed about 2-3mph.

Thoughts?

Luke
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneyWV View Post
Most of these charts do not take into account the gearing in our transmissions. They are designed around the average transmission in trucks and jeeps from about 8-15 years ago and haven't changed since. The final gears in the new transmissions allow for better MPG, so you can get away with a lower gear. Like 4.56 instead of 4.10 easily without seeing a nasty MPG impact.
The chart is really just for comparison between the ratios, for example, if he wanted to match the stock ratio with 35" tires, 4.56 would be the closest match. This one is set at 65 mph (I think, which is lower than any of us drive on the highway), so obviously it's not going to match yours at 71. Also, the tranny and the gear your in obviously makes a huge differance (I'm not sure but I think the chart uses a typical top gear, but not overdrive), your actual speeds/RPMs will vary whether you have a manual, auto, if your in overdrive, if your in "tow" mode etc etc. I think you still need to take several other factors in consideration, mainly whats more important to you MPG or maximun towing, city or highway driving, MPG or performance (I never plan on smoking my tires), when offroad do you crawl or more open Baja style, whats kind of H/P and torque does your motor make, and often the biggest factor with our 3/4 ton trucks, do you pull often and how much?

Don, there are lots of guys running 3.73 and 4.10 gears with 35" tires no problems. If money was no object, I'd probably be running 4.56 with 37" tires right now, but money is something I have to throw into the equation. After a season of pulling my trailer, I'll have a better idea of what tire size/ratio I might change to later down the road. Unless you pull 9,000# or more often (I assume you do not or you would have a diesel), and your obviously concerned with MPG, then I think 4.10 with 35" is a great combo.
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2012, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raynval View Post
The chart is really just for comparison between the ratios, for example, if he wanted to match the stock ratio with 35" tires, 4.56 would be the closest match. This one is set at 65 mph (I think, which is lower than any of us drive on the highway), so obviously it's not going to match yours at 71. Also, the tranny and the gear your in obviously makes a huge differance (I'm not sure but I think the chart uses a typical top gear, but not overdrive), your actual speeds/RPMs will vary whether you have a manual, auto, if your in overdrive, if your in "tow" mode etc etc. I think you still need to take several other factors in consideration, mainly whats more important to you MPG or maximun towing, city or highway driving, MPG or performance (I never plan on smoking my tires), when offroad do you crawl or more open Baja style, whats kind of H/P and torque does your motor make, and often the biggest factor with our 3/4 ton trucks, do you pull often and how much?

Don, there are lots of guys running 3.73 and 4.10 gears with 35" tires no problems. If money was no object, I'd probably be running 4.56 with 37" tires right now, but money is something I have to throw into the equation. After a season of pulling my trailer, I'll have a better idea of what tire size/ratio I might change to later down the road. Unless you pull 9,000# or more often (I assume you do not or you would have a diesel), and your obviously concerned with MPG, then I think 4.10 with 35" is a great combo.

Thanks Raynval, I do pull a trailer sometimes right at 10K in weight but maybe once every month so its not a big issue. I heard that, and reading from the chart that once on the highway the mileage gets better with bigger tires? when looking at the chart and driving at lets say 65mph, tires that are smaller run a higher RPM and the bigger the tire the less RPM's. Its only in the stop and go situations that seem to effect mileage, would you agree?
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  #20  
Old 03-02-2012, 08:37 AM
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I have 3.92s and from stock size to 34s i lost abouy 2-3mphs average not exactly 35s but just my personal experience good luck
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