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Old 10-17-2015, 08:52 AM
Palehorse99 Palehorse99 is offline
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Hello I have a 95 V10 I am looking for tuning options. If I cannot tune my 95 ecm can I swap out for a later ecm and wiring harness? Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:46 AM
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Welcome to the forumz. Talk to Sean Powell (hemifever tuning)
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Old 10-18-2015, 02:17 PM
Palehorse99 Palehorse99 is offline
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Thank you. I will check into it.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:00 AM
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SummitRacing sells the Mopar Performance PCM which for a little under 200USD was a nice upgrade for my 95.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:12 AM
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69 XS29L 69 XS29L is offline
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The harness upgrade might not be too tough, the more tuneable OBD II 96-97 would seem to be the easiest as the dash is still basically analog. In my case I would have 4 O2 sensors instead of 2. The EGR was eliminated, the crank and cam sensors are different, likely in connection only, but I have never checked the pinout. The fuel injectors are a different part, but your 95s will plug into a later harness.
The 47 RE transmission is a different animal however, don't think there is a high quality work around for that.
Let me know what you find out, good luck, Mike.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:40 PM
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Yea that's what I was thinking. I'm not sure what to do yet. That's why I figured I would ask around to see what some people thought or have ran in to. I want to do some power adders, but didn't want to start spending a bunch unless I could tune this year. From what I have been reading the 96 and up have much better tuning options. What kind of power upgrades have you done? And are you happy? I know there aren't a whole lot of options out there for the v10. So before I start spending on mine I figure I would ask around. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for your input Mike.
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Old 10-25-2015, 07:36 PM
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I had intended to a writeup of what I have done and what I have found out about V-10s, but I am not sure there are that many people really interested in or knowledgeable about these trucks. There are plenty of half ton drivers who have never owned, seriously worked on, or probably even driven a V-10 truck who are more than happy to line you out on what you should be doing with your truck, and their advice about head mods, long tube headers, rocker arms, and cams seems pretty irrelevant.
The V-10 is kind of it's own thing, there was never a lot built for these engines, even from Mopar, and whatever was available retail for performance is pretty much long gone. There is only one type of header commonly available, the small tube mini-header, minimal collector, developed by Mopar and knocked off by Edelbrock, JBA, and the EBay retailers.
Heads, short of gasket matching, what are you going to port? The intake runners are like 1.25 x 2.5 inches, that's MaxWedge territory size wise, and both sides dump pretty directly into or out of the cylinders. What I did notice on the intake side of some of the cylinders is a buildup of fuel residue in places, which means to me there is a low pressure, or low flow turbulent zone where some of the fuel is laying out. If the idea of porting is to maximize coherent air velocity then it seems that these ports could actually benefit from a reduction in cross section by raising the port floor.
Crower still lists a couple of part numbers for cams, but they are pretty spendy. A regrind of your spare cam if you had an idea of what you wanted might be a good choice for the money, but would involve trimming the heads (and) or easily available custom length pushrods. New cam is probably the easiest.
There is some magical thinking around rocker arms for all the Magnums. The old Viper engines, that is the first two generations, the truck V-10 and the other Magnums all have a stamped steel, 1.6 arm ratio, pedestal mounted part. There is one replacement part number common to all of these, even the Jeep engines I believe. I bought a cheap set of used Gen I Viper arms from an outfit that parts out Vipers, and compared them to one I pulled off a spare '97 engine I have, as well as my '95 when I had the covers off, they appear to be identical. Also, I am not sure what the difference is between the X and V stamped rockers, the forums will tell you V parts are for Vipers, X for trucks, but that same '97 came equipped with V stamped rockers, my '95 has X.
The Gen III Vipers have a pedestal mounted, roller bearing fulcrum, forged steel part w/a 1.7 ratio which some of the Viper guys mount to their earlier generation engines. I have a set I bought used and the switch doesn't look too bad. It involves shimming the aluminum bridge and maybe switching to the tapered or beehive springs for clearance. The older Magnum V-10s have a 5/16 stud in the pedestal and there have been problems w/breakage, my '97 has a broken stud on the #9 cyl.The studs were changed sometime in the late 90's to a 3/8 stud which the Vipers already had and it looks to me like custom studs to mount them to my existing heads heads would be in order. What I will likely do is rebuild my set of spare '99 heads w/ the bigger studs, mill them for compression, and just swap them out
I have had this truck about 15 years and like it quite a bit. I need a truck to do anything a truck should be able to do, so I bought a tow equipped, long box, extended cab 4x4, w/an 8800 GVW. The OBD I trucks are simpler electronically and I am partial to the stout old straight axles, so anything newer like a Gen III is not my taste. My daughter wrecked it twice and I have been resurrecting it slowly over the last couple years.
You asked me what I have done for power and efficiency the short answer is in order:
- Simple tune up, Granatelli solid core wires and Bosch+4 plugs. Cleaned the throttle body and IAC. Already had a K&N filter in the box.
- 170F thermostat
- Rebuilt, flow matched '97 injectors. I sent my set to Dr. Injector of Sacramento. Outstanding quick service, and he sent them back with a chart suggesting specific injector location based on the slight variation in flow distribution. Highly recommended.
- Mopar Performance PCM.
- New O2 sensors and TPS
- New 2.25 inch cats and a full dual side exit exhaust dumping out in front of the rear wheels.
- Made an X pipe using a 2.5 inch Cherry Bomb 2 in 2 out CB7481 mini muffler. No room for any other muffler in the system.
Everything except the the thermostat had a positive effect. The most improvement came from the PCM and X-pipe and I am happy with everything I have done so far. I'll make a couple separate posts w/ a few pics about what I have learned and why I did what I did.
I think the way to make power from these engines is going to be old school.
Fortunately I think you are starting with a pretty decent foundation. The engine already has a windage tray. The deep skirt below the crank journals means the block should be plenty stiff. The heads look like they should flow enough to support a decent cam. The crank is a decent forged piece. Some of the guys that sled pull these bore the mains and run a Gen III Viper crank.
To increase power, efficiency and durability for an OBD I V-10:
- Absolutely the compression has to be raised. Flat top pistons, square the block to the mains, maybe shave the heads. This will make power and increase efficiency.
- Lighten the reciprocating weight.
- Camshaft. There's not a huge amount of meat on the baseline circle for a regrind, but I have 1.7 rockers as well.
- Multi angle valve job with back cut valves should pick up some flow through the chambers.
- These are relatively low rev engines so for an automatic the toughest transmission with a tight low stall converter and multi-disc lockup clutch will make sure the power gets to the driveshaft.
- Looking at the factory exhaust manifolds headers would seem to be a given with any kind of cam or head improvements. Maybe a modified version of one of David Vizard's torque boxes in place of the X-pipe.
- Cool air to the engine. My truck always runs better in cool weather up north. However, anybody that tells me that a "cold air" intake that terminates anywhere under the hood will improve my performance is practicing more of that magical thinking. A bunch of that poorly engineered junk was sold to the small block guys.This means most likely building a short airbox to pull air through the hood.
- Switch to some sort of electric fan setup.
Anyways, good luck, keep everybody posted.

Last edited by 69 XS29L; 10-25-2015 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 10-27-2015, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 XS29L View Post
I had intended to a writeup of what I have done and what I have found out about V-10s, but I am not sure there are that many people really interested in or knowledgeable about these trucks. There are plenty of half ton drivers who have never owned, seriously worked on, or probably even driven a V-10 truck who are more than happy to line you out on what you should be doing with your truck, and their advice about head mods, long tube headers, rocker arms, and cams seems pretty irrelevant.
The V-10 is kind of it's own thing, there was never a lot built for these engines, even from Mopar, and whatever was available retail for performance is pretty much long gone. There is only one type of header commonly available, the small tube mini-header, minimal collector, developed by Mopar and knocked off by Edelbrock, JBA, and the EBay retailers.
Heads, short of gasket matching, what are you going to port? The intake runners are like 1.25 x 2.5 inches, that's MaxWedge territory size wise, and both sides dump pretty directly into or out of the cylinders. What I did notice on the intake side of some of the cylinders is a buildup of fuel residue in places, which means to me there is a low pressure, or low flow turbulent zone where some of the fuel is laying out. If the idea of porting is to maximize coherent air velocity then it seems that these ports could actually benefit from a reduction in cross section by raising the port floor.
Crower still lists a couple of part numbers for cams, but they are pretty spendy. A regrind of your spare cam if you had an idea of what you wanted might be a good choice for the money, but would involve trimming the heads (and) or easily available custom length pushrods. New cam is probably the easiest.
There is some magical thinking around rocker arms for all the Magnums. The old Viper engines, that is the first two generations, the truck V-10 and the other Magnums all have a stamped steel, 1.6 arm ratio, pedestal mounted part. There is one replacement part number common to all of these, even the Jeep engines I believe. I bought a cheap set of used Gen I Viper arms from an outfit that parts out Vipers, and compared them to one I pulled off a spare '97 engine I have, as well as my '95 when I had the covers off, they appear to be identical. Also, I am not sure what the difference is between the X and V stamped rockers, the forums will tell you V parts are for Vipers, X for trucks, but that same '97 came equipped with V stamped rockers, my '95 has X.
The Gen III Vipers have a pedestal mounted, roller bearing fulcrum, forged steel part w/a 1.7 ratio which some of the Viper guys mount to their earlier generation engines. I have a set I bought used and the switch doesn't look too bad. It involves shimming the aluminum bridge and maybe switching to the tapered or beehive springs for clearance. The older Magnum V-10s have a 5/16 stud in the pedestal and there have been problems w/breakage, my '97 has a broken stud on the #9 cyl.The studs were changed sometime in the late 90's to a 3/8 stud which the Vipers already had and it looks to me like custom studs to mount them to my existing heads heads would be in order. What I will likely do is rebuild my set of spare '99 heads w/ the bigger studs, mill them for compression, and just swap them out
I have had this truck about 15 years and like it quite a bit. I need a truck to do anything a truck should be able to do, so I bought a tow equipped, long box, extended cab 4x4, w/an 8800 GVW. The OBD I trucks are simpler electronically and I am partial to the stout old straight axles, so anything newer like a Gen III is not my taste. My daughter wrecked it twice and I have been resurrecting it slowly over the last couple years.
You asked me what I have done for power and efficiency the short answer is in order:
- Simple tune up, Granatelli solid core wires and Bosch+4 plugs. Cleaned the throttle body and IAC. Already had a K&N filter in the box.
- 170F thermostat
- Rebuilt, flow matched '97 injectors. I sent my set to Dr. Injector of Sacramento. Outstanding quick service, and he sent them back with a chart suggesting specific injector location based on the slight variation in flow distribution. Highly recommended.
- Mopar Performance PCM.
- New O2 sensors and TPS
- New 2.25 inch cats and a full dual side exit exhaust dumping out in front of the rear wheels.
- Made an X pipe using a 2.5 inch Cherry Bomb 2 in 2 out CB7481 mini muffler. No room for any other muffler in the system.
Everything except the the thermostat had a positive effect. The most improvement came from the PCM and X-pipe and I am happy with everything I have done so far. I'll make a couple separate posts w/ a few pics about what I have learned and why I did what I did.
I think the way to make power from these engines is going to be old school.
Fortunately I think you are starting with a pretty decent foundation. The engine already has a windage tray. The deep skirt below the crank journals means the block should be plenty stiff. The heads look like they should flow enough to support a decent cam. The crank is a decent forged piece. Some of the guys that sled pull these bore the mains and run a Gen III Viper crank.
To increase power, efficiency and durability for an OBD I V-10:
- Absolutely the compression has to be raised. Flat top pistons, square the block to the mains, maybe shave the heads. This will make power and increase efficiency.
- Lighten the reciprocating weight.
- Camshaft. There's not a huge amount of meat on the baseline circle for a regrind, but I have 1.7 rockers as well.
- Multi angle valve job with back cut valves should pick up some flow through the chambers.
- These are relatively low rev engines so for an automatic the toughest transmission with a tight low stall converter and multi-disc lockup clutch will make sure the power gets to the driveshaft.
- Looking at the factory exhaust manifolds headers would seem to be a given with any kind of cam or head improvements. Maybe a modified version of one of David Vizard's torque boxes in place of the X-pipe.
- Cool air to the engine. My truck always runs better in cool weather up north. However, anybody that tells me that a "cold air" intake that terminates anywhere under the hood will improve my performance is practicing more of that magical thinking. A bunch of that poorly engineered junk was sold to the small block guys.This means most likely building a short airbox to pull air through the hood.
- Switch to some sort of electric fan setup.
Anyways, good luck, keep everybody posted.
This is awesome, awesome advice. Very well written and very spot on. These V10s indeed act a lot like older engines when it comes to making power.
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