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  #1  
Old 03-11-2012, 03:58 PM
ragtopmfw ragtopmfw is offline
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Angry still won't start, gonna try dynamite

ok this is a 94 ram 4x4 standard cab 5.9 mag. 205k miles and has always been a good and dependable truck, and well taken care off, anyhow the other nite coming home from work it started to die at anything over an idle, i got home and still couldn't get to to rev up to over an idle, and this is a perfect idle with no missing or problems, but once yo tried to rev it up it would die again, I started the truck up six or seven times that night, started right up each time and sounded totally normal each time. so I figure i'd check sensors in am.

so the next morning I went out to start the truck would crank but not turn over, if you push the pedal all the way to the floor it sounds like it wants to start but don't, and if you take the plugs out blow out the cylinders and puts plugs back in, the truck will attempt to start for a couple rotations and then almost seems to flood out, the spark plugs seem to have alot of fuel on them. almost seems flooded.

my first thought was bad fuel,,, so I changed the fuel,, I put the a little bit of fuel in my Durango and once insured it was ok, put the rest in in.

put new fuel 91 oct in truck, truck still wouldn't start.

since truck won't start.. did a fuel rail pressure test and is at 35 psi key in start position

changed idle air sensor
changed throttle position sensor
changed camshaft sensor, verified pulses back to computer
changed crankshaft position sensor, verified pulses back to computer
changed distrib, plugs,
changed coil

then i changed the plenum gasket, and most of the vacuum lines

tried two other computers and niether seem to help

I did a compression check and my left bank, cylinders 1,3,5,7 all have in the neighborhood of 125 psi

compression on the right bank were alot lower cylinder
2: had 105psi dry 110 wet..
4: had 80 dry 100 wet
6: had 95 dry and 110 wet
8: had 85 dry and 100 wet

now this truck have been messed with alot so do not know if oil has been washed of pistons by fuel or is this compression is so bad this is why truck still will not start, oil is starting to smell like gas now since all the crankig, still seems to smell and act flooded.

won't start with any starter fluid, but if I pinch off the fuel line it will attempt between flood stage till it runs out, fast cranking start,

I have also checked each injector for power and fuel flow in and on the bench, they seem to be okay

truck has never thrown any trouble codes

my question is if I have fuel, and spark, air ,and the timing is right on what am I missing I am leaning on fuel pressure regulater (possible flooding conditions) or maybe a bad valve (s),, but with no warning.


my question is exactly what sensors will stop truck from starting beside the camshaft and crankshaft, I have good spark and timing is right on, can this possibly be a fuel regulater hidden since I can't get vehicle started 35 psi with key in start position, will any other sensor egr, mapp sensor or any other sensor create a no start code.

sorry for the book, and will appreciate any help, I am at my wits end and am not sure what to do next,,,,

o yeah one more question checked code with key, on,off, etc and all i get is a 12 which is common, and a 55 end test code. if I go and get (rent) a obr1 scanner will it be any more help than the truck codes,,, does anybody know the difference.

thanks again,,,HELP

Last edited by ragtopmfw; 03-11-2012 at 04:05 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-11-2012, 05:14 PM
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shaun M shaun M is offline
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I would check to see if the cat is clogged.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:20 PM
ragtopmfw ragtopmfw is offline
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would a clogged cat cause a no start or a rough idle..
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:37 PM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Fuel should be shut off if you hold the motor mashed while cranking engine. I would leave the gauge connected to the fuel rail, so see whats going on consistantly. I would pull the plugs, spin the engine over for a minute or so, warm the plugs up with a hair drier to evaporate any fouling influences. Or, buy new ones, cuz the old ones can short out and send spark sideways instead of jumping the gap properly, in which case the fuel air mix will not reach the spark, as there is no turbulence to get the mixture to the recessed part of the plug, where the insulator is, and thus, no fire. Put the plugs back in, fire a little ether down its throat, and holding the pedal to the rugs, turn the key and see if she comes to life. If you have no life at that point, I would consider the possibility that she has jumped time, this for some reason seems to happen most often when it's cold outside, Timing sets arent that bad to change, just time consuming, tho I haven't had the pleasure on these particular motors.This timing jumping issue should only be considered seriously if you have, in fact changed the ignition coil with a known good one, already. You mention that she didn't want to run properly to begin with, and the symptoms you mentioned sound like low fuel pressure, which would cause the 'puters to lean out your engine, causing possible backfires, both from intake and exhaust, leaving a worn timing set vulnerable to jumping a tooth. low fuel pressure, (toasted fuel pump) went that route for me, intermittent, and that can be a real pain to t'shoot, unless your gauge is stuck under your wiper or somewhere that you have the ability to monitor constantly...
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:11 PM
ragtopmfw ragtopmfw is offline
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i checked the fuel pump it has 37psi key in on position I left it there to see what it would do, I also did a leakdown test and believe I have one or two bad valve, so am gonna take heads off for further inspection, took valve cover off and could smell gas on top near valve springs,, gonna get to work...thx
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:52 PM
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How are you checking timing? I had an old Jeep Cherokee with a 360 drive home and run perfect. I got in it the next day and it wouldn't start no matter what I did. It ended up being that the timing chain was so loose it hung down off the crank gear and jumped timing like that the next time I cranked it over.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:45 AM
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I had this same issue with my truck and went to a ton of guys and no one could figure it out.. I resorted to a craigslist mechanic who took a quick glance and pointed at my battery, I laughed and said ok, whatever. He put a new battery in and it fixed my problem. I know it sounds dumb, really dumb, but may be this simple.. before, Mine would start but if i tried driving or even rev, it would just die. I also had no codes to go by or anything, and everything you stated was checked by other mechanics as well. ended up just a battery, apparently its a touchy deal in dodge trucks
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:46 PM
ragtopmfw ragtopmfw is offline
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wow, battery i went ahead at put another one in earlier in the process, i went ahead and took of the heads and took them to be redone, I also found a head small gasket leak between two cylinders (4,6) , looks newly developed, gonna change timing chain whike waiting for heads to get finished,
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:41 PM
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Make sure the timing chain is a double roller.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:35 AM
ragtopmfw ragtopmfw is offline
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yep, ordered the double roller chain, making sure it is "Made in America" thats not as easy as it use to be, chain set should be here today, heads will be done thursday, also took oil (cam) drive out and inspected / serviceing it, so everything on top end will be done, timing chain seemed to be the culpret, I believe the slack it the chain resulted in compression boost in the cylinder compression, causing a head gasket leak, anyhow, thats my theory, it has been a super motor so it earns a facelift. now everything is clean, inspected and tools are standing by ready to start putting her back together.

last oil change I averaged 130psi on compression check dry, (before truck went down.)
so the new heads (compression) hopefully shouldn't be a problem, because I have had new heads wipe out old rings, but I think Im good,
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