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Electrical 4th Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 03-13-2012, 10:26 PM
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Default Door lock not working

My rear driver's side door lock is not working properly. I've noticed over the past weeks that I'll use the key fob to unlock all the doors then I open the front door, set my stuff on the seat, then go to open the rear door but it's still locked. I'd then hit the unlock button on the front door and it'd unlock the rear door. My wife noticed this weekend (she had the truck saturday) that she locked all the doors with the key fob but the rear driver's door sometimes wouldn't lock. I then played with it and it seems like it sometimes responds and sometimes doesn't respond to both unlocking and locking (with the key fob or front door button). It works manually. I checked the child safety lock it's unlocked.

What do you think, motor going bad? Anyone know what these cost and is it as easy as swapping it out? I'm not very keen on electrical things...

Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:27 PM
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Thanks, stopped by dodge today. They said it's not covered. I bought used and think I only had the bumper to bumper for so many miles and I have nearly 60k so seems reasonable...

I don't know a lot about electrical stuff but if someone could help me out on a step by step on how to test if the motor is good/bad I would appreciate it, I have a voltmeter and all just don't really know how to set it up and use it. Now's as good a time as any to learn, right?

The motor is like $85 so that's not so bad. The BCM (he called it a PITM I think?) is like $600 or something....so I'd like to test the motor and hopefully that's the culprit. Any help appreciated!
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:24 AM
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Default

He was talking about the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module), and it directly controls the power to the door lock motor. If it works sometimes I doubt it's the module, but it is possible, and yes, they are expensive!

First thing I would check is the ground connection behind the kick panel on the drivers side (by the park brake). Behind it are 2 ground points. One low and close to the door and easy to get at....that's not the one you want. Your after the one that's a little higher up and toward the firewall. You may have to change the position of the park brake pedal to get at it. make sure it's 'Tight'. Doesn't hurt to remove it, clean the connector(s) and re-attach.

If you still have an issue, reset the whole system before proceeding, just to make sure the computer(s) are not just acting stupid. Then open the door panel and check the connector on the lock motor. Sometimes just removing at re-connecting (cycles contacts) is enough to fix the issue. While you have the door apart, it is also a good time to check the condition of the wires between the door and the B pillar. Your specifically interested in the 2 Tan wires. One has an Orange stripe, the other has a Violet stripe. These 2 wires have opposite power depending on whether it's asking for lock or unlock. These are the actual motor power wires. Hooking up a voltmeter between these 2 wires will show about 12V for lock/unlock and -12v for the other. If the power is good, then you can be somewhat confident that a new motor will fix the issue......assuming no mechanical issues are binding the mechanism.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:10 AM
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snrusnak snrusnak is offline
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Thank you! Will mess with it over the weekend.
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