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Drag Racing Discussion Post your questions and info about how to best get these beasts down the 1320!


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  #31  
Old 04-19-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ramrt1993 View Post
Yes, I know, I've weighed mine on a shop scale while rotating my tires. But that's with the tires. Wheel for wheel without tires, the R/T wheel is about the same weight as a sport wheel or any other 20 wheel. Although it looked like the 17 inchers were a good bit lighter.
I carefully weighed my 2011 ST 17" X 7" steel spare w/new Goodyear Wrangler SR-A 265/70R17 tire = 68.5 lbs.

Also, FYI:

Spare tire cable and ratchet assembly = 5.7 lbs.
Jack and handle = 9 lbs.
Tailgate = 57.5 lbs.

So, the mere removal of these parts saves 140 lbs.
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  #32  
Old 04-19-2012, 07:35 PM
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Very nice. Would love to lose that weight up front vs the rear. I think i have lost about 100-120lbs up front though so its getting there. Need to relocate my battery to the rear one day.
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  #33  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:35 PM
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Ha...it's interesting that you mentioned battery relocation. I am in the process of doing exactly that with a generic Summit kit. I figured that the weight loss from the rear would complicate launch traction and decided to redistribute a few pounds from the front to the rear. I just bolted the new plastic battery box to the passenger side behind the wheel well. I haven't run the cables yet but the kit came with 20' of 2 gauge cable. I've done this before and it definitely helps.

By the way, you have an awesome truck.
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Last edited by WarBaby; 04-19-2012 at 08:52 PM. Reason: To add an afterthought!
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2012, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarBaby View Post
Ha...it's interesting that you mentioned battery relocation. I am in the process of doing exactly that with a generic Summit kit. I figured that the weight loss from the rear would complicate launch traction and decided to redistribute a few pounds from the front to the rear. I just bolted the new plastic battery box to the passenger side behind the wheel well. I haven't run the cables yet but the kit came with 20' of 2 gauge cable. I've done this before and it definitely helps.

By the way, you have an awesome truck.
do you have the part number on summit..I think I'm gonna go that route to although does anyone know about the nhra rules about battery location? or is that just battery shutoff switch..
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  #35  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:37 AM
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The Summit kit I chose is SUM-G1200A although they have many different kits.
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  #36  
Old 04-20-2012, 05:05 PM
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My installation of the box...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BatteryBox1.jpg (120.6 KB, 17 views)
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:42 PM
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Nice, mind posting pictures of the rest of the wiring?

chefred, I think when relocating a battery to the trunk you also need a vent(but if the bed is open then it's all good I'd assume). I also don't think gel type batteries need to be vented. I don't think you can run the cable through the cabin either, but you probably wouldn't likely do this with a truck anyway...
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  #38  
Old 04-20-2012, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Nice, mind posting pictures of the rest of the wiring?
Sure...but I am just now doing this and haven't run the cables yet (probably this weekend).
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarBaby View Post
My installation of the box...
I will apologize in advance for hijacking the tread, but I am starting to see the potential to fail tech inspection at the track:

First, a bungee strap will NOT pass track tech to mount a battery. If not using the OEM mount, you must use at least 3/8" bolts/threaded rods (j-bolts are not acceptable either).

Second, I'm pretty sure you will require the battery disconnect switch with the relocated battery. I will be at Virginia Motorsports Park in Richmond this weekend for the Mopar Spring Fling - I will ask the tech inspectors to confirm, but I know this is the case for a car. Disconnect switches can be tricky as not all switches are NHRA approved. Also they must be tied in to the POSITIVE cable, not the negative cable, yet still shut a running vehicle down when switched off. If you wire straight between the positive battery terminal and the rest of the wiring circuit and turn the switch off while the vehicle is running, it will continue to run on the alternator and fail tech inspection.
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  #40  
Old 04-24-2012, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011lilred View Post
I will apologize in advance for hijacking the tread, but I am starting to see the potential to fail tech inspection at the track:

First, a bungee strap will NOT pass track tech to mount a battery. If not using the OEM mount, you must use at least 3/8" bolts/threaded rods (j-bolts are not acceptable either).

Second, I'm pretty sure you will require the battery disconnect switch with the relocated battery. I will be at Virginia Motorsports Park in Richmond this weekend for the Mopar Spring Fling - I will ask the tech inspectors to confirm, but I know this is the case for a car. Disconnect switches can be tricky as not all switches are NHRA approved. Also they must be tied in to the POSITIVE cable, not the negative cable, yet still shut a running vehicle down when switched off. If you wire straight between the positive battery terminal and the rest of the wiring circuit and turn the switch off while the vehicle is running, it will continue to run on the alternator and fail tech inspection.
Thanks for your constructive comments. The battery relocation job is incomplete. Most of my projects tend to be works in progress. I do things that are supposed to be fun when I feel like it. Otherwise, it is not much fun.

The bungee cord does not "hold" the battery. It only secures the plastic lid of the battery box. The box itself is bolted through the truck bed floor with three 3/8" bolts. I am working on a hardware retainer for the battery that should meet inspection standards--again, at my leisurely pace. Your comments about a cut off switch are well taken however and I'm pondering that.

Pics are here: My Hemi
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