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  #11  
Old 03-15-2012, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
^ok, didn't know that. I don't see how you could get the seal on without removing the flywheel though. Two piece seal?
Yes it's a 2 piece seal, Chrysler has almost always used a two piece seal. GM vehicles on the other hand are notorious for having a one piece seal which requires remove of the transmission which I personally think is stupid and expensive. I just replaced my rear main seal about 1 month ago at 129K miles, but the vehicle had sat dormant for 5 years prior to my ownership so neglect took it's toll Anyways it's a good 3 hour job so something nice to do on a Sunday.

Last edited by ramvan2500; 03-15-2012 at 11:24 AM.
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  #12  
Old 03-15-2012, 12:45 PM
FLKeysRam2004 FLKeysRam2004 is offline
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The truck is a 1996 with a little over 137,000 miles on it. It runs pretty good and after putting Seafoam into the gas tank the other day it runs pretty well with little idle issues. So i'm a little confused on everyone's postings. Would I have to move the transmission to get to the seal? Would it honestly be easier to take it to a mechanic and tell him exactly what's wrong with it and try to avoid a diagnostic fee, even though I'm not 100% sure what's wrong with it?
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:47 PM
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ramvan says the rear main seal is a two piece seal, you wouldn't need to drop the trans. You'd have to pull the oil pan to get to it though. Depending on your skill level, probably not too hard of a job, but if you've never changed oil or something like that probably better to take it to someone.

First you need to identify the leak though.

Sorry for the confusion on pulling the trans, I'm used to GM's they almost always use a 1 piece seal and you have to pull the trans to get to it.

I'm still a bit confused on how you'd get the two piece seal in with the trans bolted up, but I don't know...
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  #14  
Old 03-15-2012, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
ramvan says the rear main seal is a two piece seal, you wouldn't need to drop the trans. You'd have to pull the oil pan to get to it though. Depending on your skill level, probably not too hard of a job, but if you've never changed oil or something like that probably better to take it to someone.

First you need to identify the leak though.

Sorry for the confusion on pulling the trans, I'm used to GM's they almost always use a 1 piece seal and you have to pull the trans to get to it.

I'm still a bit confused on how you'd get the two piece seal in with the trans bolted up, but I don't know...
The chrysler 2 piece seal is a internal seal, it works similar to the old (1960/70) GM Vettes, one half of the seal is recessed in the main bearing cap and the other half slips between the block and the crank.

The sealing property occurs because oil pressure from the pump builds up behind the sealing lip which then creates a positive seal around the entire crank.

Here is a photograph: http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...terpump/23.jpg
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:17 PM
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Ok so for the portion of the seal that is between the crank and block, do you "push" it around the crank (through it's groove)?

I think I understand.
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  #16  
Old 03-15-2012, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Ok so for the portion of the seal that is between the crank and block, do you "push" it around the crank (through it's groove)?

I think I understand.
Yes pretty much. What I do and I think it is good practice is to use a small punch and a household hammer and position the tip of the punch on the center of the seal and give it a couple of firm hits, then once the seal moves on the opposite side use a needle nose pliers and pull the seal around the crank. When you go to install the new seal lube the seal lip first then using the shoe horn provided in the seal kit, position the tip of the shoe horn behind the seal and push the seal up around the crank, be sure to offset the seal about 1/8" at the block this helps against leaks.

Now if the engine shows a small leak after the seal job is done properly that is perfectly normal because the oil pressure builds up behind the seal lip to actually do the sealing, after a while the seal lip will form to the crank.

Oh yea, another thing is to be sure the large lip faces towards the front of the engine. And be sure you put a drop about 1/8" diameter of black RTV sealant on the cap next to the between the seal and edge of the cap. The bolt the cap up onto the block tighten to 85 ft-lbs, I always give it a little extra to be sure. Make sure you install the bolts wet (oil) so you don't get false torque readings. After the cap is torque you have to put sealant on the cornor of the block and bearing cap, their will be a little hole in the corner for this. Then put sealant on the front of the engine in the corner of the oil pan and timing chain cover. Pretty much where ever you saw sealant when disasembling the engine put new sealant

It's a pretty fun, quick, easy job. Something nice to do on the weekend
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:29 PM
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Ok it makes sense now thanks for the explanation. Would still probably take someone a day if it's their first time though I bet(for the "average" DIY mechanic).
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2012, 05:29 PM
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Here is some instructions with photos of a rear main seal replacement on a magnum engine, found it on the web. http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html
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  #19  
Old 03-15-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Ok it makes sense now thanks for the explanation. Would still probably take someone a day if it's their first time though I bet(for the "average" DIY mechanic).
No problem, thats what I'm here for.

It depends on the person, some people can do stuff fast others well lets just say dealership slow. But it's preperation that will knock off hours, I mean if you are missing a tool or a part then it adds on so many hours but if you have everything laid out all ready to go then the whole job takes 3 hours or so. I must say this, the hardest part of the job is actually getting the oil pan back on without the pan gasket sliding off, their are dowels that you're suppose to install to aid in installation but it can be done without them, just need some good old cheap patience.
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:18 PM
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The way to easily tell where your leaking is coming from & really tell you what color it is

Just take a larger cardboard box, like the size of a coffee table, open it up flat & slide it between your tires. If you can, lay it where it will cover the ground from the radiator all the way back to the back of the transmission, maybe use 2 boxes if you have to.

Things that leak could be the radiator, power steering pump & hoses, engine pan, valve covers, oil pressure sensor, rear seal, transmission & tubing lines
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