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  #1  
Old 03-16-2012, 03:21 AM
dsellet dsellet is offline
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Default newbie '97 Laramie tranny problem

I've got a high mileage 5.2L (with 46RE tranny), which I just changed the transmission fluid on (at 199,000 miles). Replaced filter, and adjusted bands per specs, and used Valvoline ATF+4 fluid. Trouble is, now it shifts into reverse really harshly, with a nasty CLUNK, -it can't be good for the tranny or drivetrain. It also downshifts (at speed) with a quieter but noticeable clunk. I tried adjusting the Throttle Valve cable, -made very little difference. Should I readjust the bands, -maybe different from what's recommended (front band backed-off 2-7/8 turns, rear band backed-off 2)?? Somebody in a thread somewhere mentioned adding limited-slip rear axle fluid to the tranny fluid when changing fluid on high-mileage vehicles?? Any suggestions greatly appeciated.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:33 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsellet View Post
I've got a high mileage 5.2L (with 46RE tranny), which I just changed the transmission fluid on (at 199,000 miles). Replaced filter, and adjusted bands per specs, and used Valvoline ATF+4 fluid. Trouble is, now it shifts into reverse really harshly, with a nasty CLUNK, -it can't be good for the tranny or drivetrain. It also downshifts (at speed) with a quieter but noticeable clunk. I tried adjusting the Throttle Valve cable, -made very little difference. Should I readjust the bands, -maybe different from what's recommended (front band backed-off 2-7/8 turns, rear band backed-off 2)?? Somebody in a thread somewhere mentioned adding limited-slip rear axle fluid to the tranny fluid when changing fluid on high-mileage vehicles?? Any suggestions greatly appeciated.
You have already made this thread before and I responded to it.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:40 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Okay, don't put limited slip axle additive to the transmission, the transmission fluid is a very high friction modified fluid, the purpose of the friction modifier in the fluid is to help reduce friction and parasitic drag cause by the planets but mainly for the friction discs as they are modified friction discs and the friction modifier in the fluid helps reduce clutch pack noises also. Anyways, it is actually common what you describe, the harsh shift into reverse is caused by the stock manual valve, it doesn't have a very good fluid regulation, sonnax makes a replacement manual valve to correct this. Another commonly associated problem when shifting into reverse is hydraulic noises this is caused by the regulator valve, to much pressure builds up behind the pressure regulator valve and causes cross leaks.

Now the downshifting clunk could still be the throttle valve cable if not that then it could just be a sticking valve which wouldn't be a surprise for a vehicle with 199K miles. Try readjusting the front band but be sure to hold the adjuster screw why you tighten the locknut.

Never add any transmission fix fluids, that stuff is used when you know you need to rebuild the transmission and you want to get away on some borrowed time.

But I wouldn't worry too much about it, I use Valvoline ATF+4 and other Valvoline products in my vehicle and I have never had a single issue with Valvoline so it's certainly not the fluid.

I can only offer suggestions to what I think it is based on my experiences with these transmissions. If I had the truck in my possession I certainly would be able to tell you whats wrong, but again I can only suggest. But hey any questions I am more then happy to answer them.
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:23 AM
dsellet dsellet is offline
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Default response to tranny advice

Thanks for the responding, -ramvan2500. I just thought I'd put it in the help forum, since someone said the newbie forum doesn't get the most viewers. For the reverse-shift CLUNK, is the Sonnax replacement Manual Valve a difficult repair, -for a guy who's never worked on trannys before, -only replaced a clutch on an old Toyota 4-banger? If I readjust the front band (for the downshift clunking I'm getting), should I do it to specs, or a little different from spec (2-7/8 turns out)?
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dsellet View Post
Thanks for the responding, -ramvan2500. I just thought I'd put it in the help forum, since someone said the newbie forum doesn't get the most viewers. For the reverse-shift CLUNK, is the Sonnax replacement Manual Valve a difficult repair, -for a guy who's never worked on trannys before, -only replaced a clutch on an old Toyota 4-banger? If I readjust the front band (for the downshift clunking I'm getting), should I do it to specs, or a little different from spec (2-7/8 turns out)?
Replacing the manual valve should be very easy if you have replace a clutch before.

When adjusting the kickdown band it should be to spec, torque to 72 inch lbs then backoff 2-7/8, I usually do three because when I go to tighten the locknut the adjuster will rotate a little bit more until the locknut is tight.

It's imperative you do adjust the band to spec, if you overtighten it then you can ware out the band and overheat the transmission, if it's not tight enough then you will get a soft shift and excessive ware to the clutch pack. I have a small feeling that the clunking is from something other then the band but give it a shot, I could be wrong but I don't think I am.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:00 AM
dsellet dsellet is offline
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Thanks for answering, ramvan2500. When I mentioned replacing a clutch, I meant a manual-transmission dry-plate clutch. Not sure if I got that across. I've never really worked on autom. transmissions before, but I'll look into it and see if I can do the job (the Manual Valve replacement). Thanks again.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dsellet View Post
Thanks for answering, ramvan2500. When I mentioned replacing a clutch, I meant a manual-transmission dry-plate clutch. Not sure if I got that across. I've never really worked on autom. transmissions before, but I'll look into it and see if I can do the job (the Manual Valve replacement). Thanks again.
I know you meant a manual. The manual valve is in the valve body all you have to do is remove the valve body to replace the manual valve, you just remove the transmission fluid pan, the shift linkage levers, the OD/TCC connector and then you can remove the I think it's 9 bolts holding the valve body to the bell housing then valve body falls out. Then you just replace the manual valve, sounds complicated but trust me it's as easy as changing your engine oil. These torque flites are very simple in design.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:41 AM
dsellet dsellet is offline
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Cool, -I'll give it a shot. Maybe this weekend if the weather's good.
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