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  #1  
Old 04-08-2013, 08:54 AM
CoalMinersDodge CoalMinersDodge is offline
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Default Iridium Spark plugs

Trucks got 70000 miles on in and im deciding to do an oil change and plug change... i bought the iridium plugs... are these already spaced accordingly..also any tips on changing these would be appreciated..

MY engine bay is filthy ....what can i use ??
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:59 AM
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Tip - return them. The Hemi seems to respond poorly overall to fancy plugs, just use the factory copper style plugs (NGK and Champion) and be happy with no headache.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:01 AM
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you should always check the gaps for the best result overhall,.. a gap tool can be bought at local autopart store for about 5$

the specific gap is in the owner manuel,

for your engine, at the same autopart store you'll find some engine bay cleaner that you can spray on and rinse after,.. try to avoid direct water pressure on the electronic connections, howeever a little water won't hurt them, just not direct pressur on them,..

for the tips on how to do it, do a search the are many threads on this
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:09 AM
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Yes, i second that vote in that many Hemi owners here in past threads have described poor running conditions using anything other than NGK's or Champion Copper plugs. Some police departments have stated they utilize platinum plugs and I believe just recently, RamTech recommended an NGK platinum plug with the designation of a PLZFR5C-11 from the standard copper of LZFR5C-11. Correct me if I misquoted you RamTech.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:13 AM
CoalMinersDodge CoalMinersDodge is offline
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thanks guy... i dont have the hemi..just the 4.7....should i still return them?? i check the gap ...looks good.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:59 PM
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You have a 2008+ 4.7L, there are 16 spark plugs on that engine. The upper bank(intake side) is a copper plug enriched with yttrium. It is essentially just a copper plug(the yttrium provides longer life and nothing else). These are supposed to be changed at 50,000 miles. I literally just did mine this weekend and I have about 75,000 miles on my truck(they've never been changed). Going from memory, the part number for these 8 plugs is FR8TE2. They are not extremely easy to locate. I got them online, wherever was cheapest. They come pre gapped(should be right at 0.040") but I checked mine and yes they were correct.

The lower bank(exhaust side) are iridium yttrium enhanced. Same concept as the others. It is essentially an iridium plug and the yttrium provides some more longevity. These are also a very specific plug, the part number is FR8T1332. These last 100,000 miles. Gap should be ~0.050". Do NOT gap these unless you have the special wire gapper. The iridium tip is brittle.

You CAN put the iridium plugs in all 16 holes if you want to. The benefit will be longevity(nothing else). I'd recommend not using any other plugs other than oem. I only know one person that is using a different plug in a 2008+ 4.7L and it is a copper plug, colder heat range, and he's using them to run nitrous.

BE CAREFUL CHANGING THE UPPER BANK. The ignition coils(8 of them) sit right on top of the upper bank spark plugs. There is a rubber boot that attaches to the coil and then over the spark plug. If ample dialectic grease wasn't applied to the boot, it is likely stuck to the plug. When you loosen the bolt holding the coil down(also holds the intake manifold down) you can't remove the bolt from the coil housing, so you can't twist the coil to break the seal. So when you pull the coil up there's a good chance it will rip the boot in half(happened to me on several). Then you have to replace the entire coil to get just the new boot. Also the boot stays in the head, difficult to remove. I found another guy having the same issue online and used his tip. After you remove the coil, if the boot rips off, us a piece of 3/8" copper pipe to stick between the plug and the boot, and force it down, and this will break the seal. Then use needle nose plyers, etc. to remove the boot. The coils cost ~$25 from the dealer, and ~$20 from autozone. I'm replacing all 8(tuesday....had to order them). I could reuse some but the boots are in bad shape.

There also another spark plug wire that goes from the coil to the exhaust side plug, I had no issues with these wires.

You also need a "thin wall" spark plug socket. I used one I had it fit but was tight so I used a grinder to make it thinner and it worked fine.

I spent 3 hours on the first plug because of the boot ripping. After that, knowing to use the copper pipe, the remaining 7 only took me a few hours.

FWIW, my intake side plugs were fairly worn down, they were all showing about 0.050" gap.

Both plugs for this engine are Bosch.

Copy and paste from online owner's manual(note they say to change the upper bank at 30k miles....I swear my manual says 50k):

"Required Maintenance Intervals
NOTE: ** Vehicles built with the 4.7L engine are
equipped with sixteen spark plugs, one set is located on
the top of the engine under the coils and the second set is
located on the side of the engine.
The spark plugs located under the coils are a standard
plug and must be changed every 30,000 miles (50 000 km)
The spark plugs located on the side of the engine are a
premium plug and must be changed every 102,000 miles
(170 000 km)."

Also the plugs under the coils are Bosch FR8TE2 (Nickel Yttrium) Gap .039
The plugs that are connected to the wire are Bosch FR8T1332 (Iridium) Gap .051
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Last edited by snrusnak; 04-08-2013 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:41 PM
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Thanks so much.. that was extremely helpful ... and i was just about to ask how the hell do i get my spark plug socket down in there... it was so tight on the first one i bout lost it ... it got stuck but i got it out.. went down my buddies and got a different one that worked just fine... i havent decided if i want to tackle the bottom ones... actually didnt even know they were there.. ill look into it...

thanks again ..
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:02 PM
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I always check the gap on spark plugs
Those boxes of plugs get dropped during shipping & during stocking the shelves, so checking the gap is just smart

My friend has a Dakota '08 4.7L & he needed to replace his passenger side front O2 sensor
Yesterday when he got to my house, he opened the box & inside was a USED sensor, he got it at AutoZone, someone there had pulled a sensor switch & the store manager said that my friend must have done it himself. I don't trust cheap chain type parts store employees
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:22 PM
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No problem, glad it helped. You lucked out since it's fresh in my head lol. Did you use oem plugs? Did you put the exhaust plug part number in the intakes? Just curious how it worked out if you did, haven't talked to anyone who has done it, just read it was ok.

Yeah I always check mine too GT, but you just have to be very careful with iridium tipped plugs as they are fragile. I've even bought brand new iridium plugs that had a broken tip.
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  #10  
Old 04-10-2013, 12:50 AM
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Always gap them because you wi always find 1 or 2 off usually and with 16 probably more that that. I have no exp with iridium in the Rams. When my 09 hemi needed plugs I got some copper core champions from Napa. $30 for all 16. Cheaper than 4 NGK iridium's for my cobalt turbo. They worked great it my truck. Didn't drive like it had 110k anymore and the mileage was good again.
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