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  #21  
Old 04-12-2012, 11:41 AM
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I installed P/N 82211668AB in my 2012 Sport yesterday ... the wiring went as follows:

From the lock, red wire is the unlock sense - black wire is the lock sense.

Connector C5 ( brown ) letter "E" cavity 7 splice the red wire to the tan wire ( some may have a LB tracer.

Connector C6 ( grey ) letter "F" cavity 20 splice the black wire to the TN/DB
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  #22  
Old 04-12-2012, 02:13 PM
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Just to update I haven't done this yet as work has been too busy. Will let you know when it gets done and share my experience.
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  #23  
Old 04-12-2012, 03:26 PM
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The choices are
MOPAR
EDWARDS
POOP N LOCK, this companies manual lock can be bypassed fairly easily, just lift the handle higher than normal

The 2013s will have a FOB operated Power Locking Tailgate, the RAMBOX lock will work on it too, it will be an option of course
http://www.autoblog.com/2012/04/05/2...t-stop-air-su/

The new 2013 Ram 1500 now features available Keyless Enter 'n Go technology, which allows the doors to be unlocked and the vehicle ignition to be started without having to touch the key fob. Also new for 2013, remote central locking includes the RamBox® cargo management system and tailgate powerlocks, creating a convenient solution for locking down the truck with the push of a button. An available remote start feature allows a driver to start their vehicle from up to 300 feet away. Door controls, illuminated entry, engine immobilizer and panic alert are standard features with the Keyless Enter 'n Go system. Auto rain-sensing wipers and SmartBeam® also find their way into the feature availability list, adding to a truckload of content offered in the new 2013 Ram 1500.
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  #24  
Old 04-12-2012, 04:04 PM
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Has anyone done this with the bac-up camera option?
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  #25  
Old 04-12-2012, 04:18 PM
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I installed mine yesterday and I have the backup camera ... you don't need to unplug the cam. The install is pretty straight forward, but the two screws holding the lock cylinder are a tight fit!
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  #26  
Old 04-15-2012, 06:35 PM
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Just finished installing it on my 2012 1500, for those who are interested, this unit is a Mopar genuine product. My instructions were for 2009-2010, and another page for 2011. I used the 2011 info and on connector C5 "letter E labeled on the bottom of the TIPM" the wire at cavity 7 is all beige, in the instructions it does not indicate which wire to solder to this wire but in case it has not been said anywhere in these posts, the RED wire from the tailgate solenoid you just installed goes there. The black wire you solder to the cavity 20 of the C6 connector "letter F labeled on the bottom of the TIPM", that wire was Beige with a small Blue line. The kit comes with ample tie wraps and ample length of cable, I actually had to cut about 5' off. Give yourself about 3 hr's to do the job, its really easy to do. Also when you drill the holes for the small bracket that get riveted to the lock assembly, in the instructions they show you to drill the holes right next to the lip of plastic, you might want to drill you first hole not right up against that lip, and rivit that one hole first, then see where your other hole lines up, it will probably be 2mm from the plastic lip and not right up against it. If you drill both holes as they show, you end up with the holes a bit to far and you need to screw around trying to get them aligned. Just a heads up. Oh and also for the tools needed to do this job, a 1/4 ratchet with universal jointed 8mm is a nice one to have handy when you need to re-screw in the lock unit with the key barrel. 3/8 will work but its tight in there.

The idea I seen by brad12kx to remove the pins and then solder and shrink the connection is cool and the best way to do it, you will need a very small screwdriver like those for eye glasses to UN-clip the pins from the socket. Also doing this keeps the integrity of the wiring and by removing the wire from the connectors it makes it easy to put the shrink tubing on top. You might want to use a smaller shrink tubing than the one that comes with the kit, since your soldering them direct to the wire, a smaller shrink works better.

The last thing I can think of is when you put the connectors back on the TIPM and put the TIPM unit back at its location, open it up and before you reconnect the + cable to the TIPM, re-seat all the relays and fuses, by pushing the connectors back on, you can loosen them and best to re-seat them all. Just a small push down on each one will make sure they are back in there proper seating.

All in all, its a great mode, love it, I just did it so if anyone has questions let me know.

Last edited by Asur; 04-15-2012 at 06:39 PM.
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  #27  
Old 05-13-2012, 04:15 PM
NorthOFortyNine NorthOFortyNine is offline
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Hey, Asur, do you have the part number for that kit? Thanks.
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  #28  
Old 05-13-2012, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthOFortyNine View Post
Hey, Asur, do you have the part number for that kit? Thanks.
Genuine MOPAR Part Number:82211668AB

Picked it up on ebay for 109$ + 10$ shipping.
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  #29  
Old 06-11-2012, 03:49 PM
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I was wondering how everybody's tailgate lock functions. Are you able to lock the tailgate with the key fob and then immediately unlock it with the fob? I have to put my key back in the ignition before the tailgate can be unlocked with the fob. Is this normal function or did dodge install incorrectly? I would greatly appreciate any help.
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  #30  
Old 06-11-2012, 03:57 PM
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Mine will lock, then unlock as many times as I like from the key fob. You may have an installation problem.
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