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  #11  
Old 04-16-2012, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Smitty21 View Post
Thanks for the good ideas so far.

So I tried the throttle valve cable over the weekend and it didnt seem to help much. I also took the truck on a long trip over the weekend and noticed that the kickdowns happend much more when the truck was in cruse.

I also checked the tranny fluid and it looked pretty dark and smelled a little funny so I changed the fliter and that seemed to help a little. It still seems a little weak though. I noticed when going up a hill if I kicked it down and floored it at about 50-60 it really wouldnt climb in speed.

Do you guys think a weak tranny could be causing it?? Do you have any other ideas?
It's possible that you over adjusted the TV cable which can cause the fluid to darken (burn) however it doesn't happen overnight. The transmission shouldn't have to kickdown when going over a hump especially in cruise, unless the speed decreases 5MPH then it will kick down. If it is the transmission then you're going to want to have that thing looked at by a transmission shop. My guess is they're going to tell you to rebuild the transmission and I would agree with them, if your fluid is burnt then most likely your clutch packs are worn out.

But I don't want to jump to any conclusions.
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  #12  
Old 04-16-2012, 05:47 PM
Smitty21 Smitty21 is offline
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Yeah, Im afraid of that. I know my adjustment wouldnt have an impact. I only drove it a few miles afterward. I took my trip before I adjusted it.

The tranny doesnt seem to slip or anything other than that. I guss we'll have to see what happens. Im not really too worried about, I can get around as much as I drive it normaly as is. I am just worried that if I ever pull anything it doesnt have the power to do it.

I would be pretty upset though if I bought a truck with a bad tranny. I cant believe I didnt check the tranny fluid durring the test drive!!
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  #13  
Old 04-16-2012, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Smitty21 View Post
Yeah, Im afraid of that. I know my adjustment wouldnt have an impact. I only drove it a few miles afterward. I took my trip before I adjusted it.

The tranny doesnt seem to slip or anything other than that. I guss we'll have to see what happens. Im not really too worried about, I can get around as much as I drive it normaly as is. I am just worried that if I ever pull anything it doesnt have the power to do it.

I would be pretty upset though if I bought a truck with a bad tranny. I cant believe I didnt check the tranny fluid durring the test drive!!
Well I didn't really want to say the transmission may need a rebuild. You might just need a valve body rebuild, matter fact some other member was having issues with his 1-2 shift having some bad hunting, in his case his 1-2 shift valve and 1-2 timing valve is probably sticking which is a common problem with these old torque flites, you might have a similar issue. If the springs inside the valve body are weak they you could have some excessive downshifting. I really wouldn't worry about it too much. You could just pull out the valve body rebuild it and see if it does you any good.


Anyway's don't feel bad about not checking the transmission during the test run. Many many people overlook these things, think about it when you buy a new vehicle people don't check the fluid in them because it's new so they assume it's all ok but their is a thing, fluid's have a shelf life and well the rest goes without saying... Another thing you should do when you buy a DODGE is to go under the truck and check the bolt torque on the transmission fluid pan, they for some reason seem to find themselves loose.
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  #14  
Old 04-16-2012, 09:35 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Just a side note on judging fluid color. The red dye used in ATF+4 is temporary. It will darken normally over time and the odor will change. In this situation, changes in color and odor do not automatically indicate damage or failure.
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2012, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
Just a side note on judging fluid color. The red dye used in ATF+4 is temporary. It will darken normally over time and the odor will change. In this situation, changes in color and odor do not automatically indicate damage or failure.
This is true however it is good practice to still go by colour and scent, the pink dye will turn red over time, but if their are traces of brown that is a indication of burnt clutch packs and fluid that has literally boiled.

You can still judge by smell no problem, burn smell is burn smell. I can't speak for ATF+5, But for 3 and 4 I can.

Oh they were still using ATF+3 up until it's discontinuation in 2005 if the fluid in his truck hasn't been changed it's probably ATF+3.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:12 PM
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How long have you had this truck? When was the last time it was tuned up, throttle body cleaned, etc? If this isn't done on a regular basis it will make the truck sluggish.

Also, 02 sensors are known to make it shift funny, or at times it really shouldn't..Even if there is no check engine light or codes.. It's worth looking into.
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  #17  
Old 04-17-2012, 12:10 PM
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Thanks for the input. I have only had the truck for about a month now and havent gotten to drive it as much as I like since I commute 60 miles a day and have a car for that. That being said, I have put a couple hundred miles on it.

The check engine light is on but it was a code due to the evaporator?? It had a cracked vacume line and I swapped that out although the light is still on. I dont know how long it takes to go off or if I need to have it cleared. I also changed the spark plugs in the truck since the fellow I bought the truck from said he didnt think they have ever been changed and the truck has 83K on it. When I pulled them I found NGK iridium plugs, but i replaced them anyway with NGK copper plugs. I should probibly clean the TB.

Also, the dipstick said to use ATF +4 so I asume that was what the pickup came with.
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  #18  
Old 04-17-2012, 01:20 PM
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+4 was introduced in 2002 and phased in as +3 was phased out over multiple model years. First thing I'd do would be to cut out the anti-drainback valve in the transmission return line coming from the radiator cooler (or at least replace it). They are notorious for corroding shut and frying transmissions. Drive and re-evaluate.
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  #19  
Old 04-17-2012, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
+4 was introduced in 2002 and phased in as +3 was phased out over multiple model years. First thing I'd do would be to cut out the anti-drainback valve in the transmission return line coming from the radiator cooler (or at least replace it). They are notorious for corroding shut and frying transmissions. Drive and re-evaluate.
Well eitherway ATF+3 and 4 are very similar, the difference is the friction coefficient better friction modifier and it has better resistance to heat however it still has the same base stock. What I hate is yea they make a fluid that allows the fluid change interval to be expanded, great, but I still would stick with the old interval, or atleast meet half way because I like to have peace of mind but doesn't everybody.
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  #20  
Old 04-17-2012, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
+4 was introduced in 2002 and phased in as +3 was phased out over multiple model years. First thing I'd do would be to cut out the anti-drainback valve in the transmission return line coming from the radiator cooler (or at least replace it). They are notorious for corroding shut and frying transmissions. Drive and re-evaluate.
I believe my check valve was responsible for frying my tranny in my 96 ram...thus the 2010 i now drive...good thing bad? i dont know..the 96 was paid for!! haha

i agree id look at changing the check valve or deleting it all together for peace of mind...
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