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  #1  
Old 07-24-2017, 07:39 PM
Pistolpete3008 Pistolpete3008 is offline
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Default Engine overheating after replacing thermostat w no leaks

I was having issues with overheating with no leaks to be found other than boiling out of the radiator cap. I replaced the cap and thermostat and still having issues. Still no leaks. Any ideas on what to do next?
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Old 07-25-2017, 08:05 AM
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airforce26yrs airforce26yrs is offline
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System could be plugged up. Try reverse flushing the system. I had a '69 charger that this happened to. Was having overheating issues and after I sold the car the next owner said he had to reverse flush it to get rid of the problem. Now how you do this is a mystery to me. I would assume that you would hook up a hose to the heater hoses somehow to get the reverse flow. Good luck.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:11 PM
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The engine produces heat, and the radiator reduces heat; the only thing in between is the thermostat; if it fails to open, you'll overheat; you've already replaced the thermostat with no results; it's fair to assume the thermostat is not faulty (but not 100%; I've seen new thermostat not work); the next thing causing overheating would be air in the engine/radiator; if the water level in the engine is too low, the pump cannot pump it into the rad. ( it's not a pump, it's only a "water circulator) Bleed with the cap off( keep adding water) at operating temp., AND at higher than idle RPM.
Next, could be the pump not working at all or only partially; when the pump is working, the 2 heater hoses will be hot, as the pump circulates water through the heater as soon as the engine is started; if both hoses are cold when the engine has warmed up, the pump is not working, or the water level in the engine is really low.
Lastly as mentioned in the above post, is a plugged up rad. or partially plugged; if the lower rad. hose is cold or barely warm, either the pump is no good or the rad. is restricted.
If you get lots of heat from the heater, the pump is working.
With the cap off, and the engine full of water, you should get lots of water movement at above idle speed, with the thermostat opened, if the pump is working.
The only purpose of the cap, is to pressurise the rad./engine/heater, so the water will boil at a higher temp., preventing premature overheating. There should always be some water in the overflow reservoir; that's the excess water when the temp. goes up; it is sucked back in the rad. once cooled off.

Good luck

Last edited by 300m; 07-25-2017 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 08-01-2017, 05:42 AM
Bigdave22 Bigdave22 is offline
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I have a 2006 ram and I had the same problem, but stupid me decided to replace the fan clutch also........
Resolution.....once.my truck got up to temp the right side of the rad was hot, too hot to keep a hand on it while the other side was much much cooler. I ended up replacing the radiator for about $125 with coupons from advance. Job would have taken me lil over 2 hrs, but I didn't have a strap wrench to get the fan off. Ended up getting 1 from depot that was a rubber huskey 1 for $11. It's fairly painless with the rite tools!
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