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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.7 HEMI V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 5.7-liter HEMI® V8 engine - 390 horsepower, 407 lb-ft of torque.


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  #11  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:46 AM
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If there is no issue with the third gens you should be fine with the heads on it just scares me cuz i havent done it before... If there is an ud pulley i would have heard about it... If you find one for the eagle motor let me know first and i will tell if its legit...
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:56 AM
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Also with the heads on it will be very difficult to get the #1 cylinder at top dead center(ATDC). You WILL have to pull a #1 spark plug and stick something down there and spin the motor over to get it ATDC it's hard enough to get it ATDC with the head off...
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:59 AM
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Im gonna be honest i think you should wait until you get those shorty headers and do it all at one time and pull the heads and lifters and replace the head gaskets just makes more since to do this the right way than to take short cuts to get it close... Just my 2 cents...
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Last edited by RamTex; 04-27-2012 at 03:02 AM.
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  #14  
Old 04-27-2012, 11:42 AM
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if anything like the 3rd gens...

remove cai
drain fluids
unbolt tranny cooler, move it off to side (same with power steering cooler)
remove radiator fan/pulley fan
remove serpentine belt
remove reservoirs (coolant/window washing)
remove radiator shroud
remove coolant hoses/unbolt and remove radiator

at this point you can climb in and work closer to motor

remove alternator
disconnect wire connector on ac pump, unbolt and hang ac pump with bungee cords to hood
remove crank pulley (use a chrysler specific harmonic balancer puller)
remove 2 pulleys and belt tensioner
unbolt powersteering pump and move to side
remove coil packs
unbolt and remove valve covers
unbolt and remove rocker arms, then remove pushods (note where your pulling them out so you don't confuse with oil channels)
unbolt all the timing cover bolts (note: there are bolts coming up from oil pan to cover), don't unbolt water pump as it can come off with timing cover (also note as your taking off timing cover bolts as they are different lengths throughout)
wiggle and remove timing cover (it gets messy here as coolant will come rushing out)

dang..gotta get ready for work..I'll continue this later..
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:05 PM
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If you are dead set on getting the cam in sooner than later i can PM you my cell number and you can call me anytime for questions and i can walk you through the timing assembly.

Since you arent taking the heads off it may be easier to leave the stock pushrods inplace until you pull the stock cam, install the new cam and timing assembly.

Why? because it will make it easier not to accidentally put a pushrod in a wrong hole cuz you will oil a new pushrod and simply do one at a time a one for one swap if you will, down the line and not mess up.
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:08 PM
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And chefred is right once you get that rad out you can climb in and work inside the engine bay. Is your clutch fan removed yet?
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  #17  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefred112 View Post
if anything like the 3rd gens...

remove cai
drain fluids
unbolt tranny cooler, move it off to side (same with power steering cooler)
remove radiator fan/pulley fan
remove serpentine belt
remove reservoirs (coolant/window washing)
remove radiator shroud
remove coolant hoses/unbolt and remove radiator

at this point you can climb in and work closer to motor

remove alternator
disconnect wire connector on ac pump, unbolt and hang ac pump with bungee cords to hood
remove crank pulley (use a chrysler specific harmonic balancer puller)
remove 2 pulleys and belt tensioner
unbolt powersteering pump and move to side
remove coil packs
unbolt and remove valve covers
unbolt and remove rocker arms, then remove pushods (note where your pulling them out so you don't confuse with oil channels)
unbolt all the timing cover bolts (note: there are bolts coming up from oil pan to cover), don't unbolt water pump as it can come off with timing cover (also note as your taking off timing cover bolts as they are different lengths throughout)
wiggle and remove timing cover (it gets messy here as coolant will come rushing out)

dang..gotta get ready for work..I'll continue this later..
I would also remove the wheel wells it makes it so much easier to work on the heads this way...
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:11 PM
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How many miles if alot might want to replace the cam bearings
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  #19  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgert View Post
How many miles if alot might want to replace the cam bearings
F that i leave that stuff to the machine shop... I doubt he wants to pull the motor but i do get what your sayin...
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2012, 06:00 PM
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I've got over 215k miles and 2 cam swaps..haven't changed cam bearings yet..
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-fast freddie- one quick 05 hemi qc...with over 250k miles on odo... on the 5.7, stoker 6.4 now...Inertia Motorsports 392 stroker
5.7 e.t.'s: 1/8 - 7.85@93.20, 1/4 - 12.10@113.96 juice - 12.96 NA... 6.4 e.t. 12.59@106 NA
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 QC SLT: 12.107 @ 113.960 MPH
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