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  #601  
Old 01-07-2013, 01:36 PM
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Should look good and feel even better

And did you say -22?!?!?! If so, I vote have a shop do it or your nuts lol
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  #602  
Old 01-07-2013, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Asur View Post
I just checked, both have them, Not sure how come yours did not come with them, these are important, its used to stop the shock from slamming the top plate and bottoming out the shock. Good thing you moved over your other ones, but I would contact the place you got them at and get the ones you should of got. JMO

Ahhhhh that makes sense. I am not too worried about it, the OEM ones where still in good condition. Not dry rotted or cracking or anything.

(Forgive me if you already know this but..) Assuming everything else goes perfectly I will say the most useful tool was a set of through sockets like these: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-51-pc...p-00929309000P

Once the spring is compressed and you have to get the top shock cap off...my OEM shocks had a nut that was 5/16 (i think) socket fit onto to hold the piston from spinning while you turned the nut...that is THE ONLY way to hold that piston from spinning. And wouldn't you know we broke the head off that nut...had to cut the piston out with a torch. The bilsteins have a allen wrench head... so the through sockets come in handy to slip either the allen wrench,5/16 socket onto the nut. It seems to me the through socket is the only way to do it. And... Once the new bilstein nut reaches the teflon in the nut..it is a B***h to tightened all the way down. I suggest threading the nut on FIRST then backing it off before you go to finally try and tighten it down. I tell you this in case you run into the problem and it will safe you A LOT of time. Good luck and I can't wait to see it installed!
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  #603  
Old 01-07-2013, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by gonefishin776 View Post
Ahhhhh that makes sense. I am not too worried about it, the OEM ones where still in good condition. Not dry rotted or cracking or anything.

(Forgive me if you already know this but..) Assuming everything else goes perfectly I will say the most useful tool was a set of through sockets like these: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-51-pc...p-00929309000P

Once the spring is compressed and you have to get the top shock cap off...my OEM shocks had a nut that was 5/16 (i think) socket fit onto to hold the piston from spinning while you turned the nut...that is THE ONLY way to hold that piston from spinning. And wouldn't you know we broke the head off that nut...had to cut the piston out with a torch. The bilsteins have a allen wrench head... so the through sockets come in handy to slip either the allen wrench,5/16 socket onto the nut. It seems to me the through socket is the only way to do it. And... Once the new bilstein nut reaches the teflon in the nut..it is a B***h to tightened all the way down. I suggest threading the nut on FIRST then backing it off before you go to finally try and tighten it down. I tell you this in case you run into the problem and it will safe you A LOT of time. Good luck and I can't wait to see it installed!

Thanks for the heads up , every little piece of information is great and may come in handy, I am pretty equipped on the tools side and have all these so they will be used for sure, thanks for the info, this is what we use for holding the shafts on shocks when we change the springs out.



we used to have them made of wood with a rubber piece, but this is what we use now

Last edited by Asur; 01-07-2013 at 09:27 PM.
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  #604  
Old 01-08-2013, 03:49 PM
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^^^^^^^^^ Well aren't you fancy.
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  #605  
Old 01-08-2013, 04:11 PM
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^^^^^^^^^ Well aren't you fancy.
Yup fancy smanshi, thats what you get for being in racing for so many years, you get used to all the trinkets and lazy also lmao
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  #606  
Old 01-08-2013, 04:37 PM
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Yup fancy smanshi, thats what you get for being in racing for so many years, you get used to all the trinkets and lazy also lmao
haha no, it's just bein smart! That is a great idea, never would have thought of that. To tightened the one nut on the new shock we actually placed a pipe wrench in there so the teeth grabbed the shaft and held it in place, it chewed the shaft up just a hair but that's the only option we had! It was hard as hell. That's why i suggested putting the nut on first before the spring and all is on there, then backing it off. but with those fancy dancy tool you shouldn't have a problem
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  #607  
Old 01-09-2013, 07:51 PM
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Decided to empty my catch can today, yuk

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  #608  
Old 01-09-2013, 09:11 PM
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Decided to empty my catch can today, yuk

Why does it look like mud?
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  #609  
Old 01-09-2013, 11:17 PM
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Think its suspended air in the synthetic oil, I presume that since its forced into the catch can via a vacuum it can create that mud look when micro air bubbles get trapped in the oil. Also, there's probably other stuff in there from the combustion gazes. Carbon and stuff. Still rather it be in there than in my intake.
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  #610  
Old 01-10-2013, 01:16 AM
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I would assume your correct. guess it doesn't really matter what it looks like as long as it's in the can as opposed to being were it's not sposed to.
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