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  #11  
Old 05-11-2012, 02:29 PM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
It's bolted to the engine block and sticks down through the opening in the bellhousing. Go to the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. The sensor is bolted on the area directly behind it. If the exhaust is in your way, you're looking in the wrong place. You don't even have the EGR tube to deal with. Though cramped by the location, it's wide open compared to the EGR model.
Could you please show me a pic? I looked everywhere, and almost blacked out. My neck is really messed up from an accident, and I am trying to save money by fixing this truck myself. Accident wasn't my fault, and I left the scene thinking I was going to be fine even knowing I could only move 1 leg. Things have gotten better over the years, but not my neck, memory, ect.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
Could you please show me a pic? I looked everywhere, and almost blacked out. My neck is really messed up from an accident, and I am trying to save money by fixing this truck myself. Accident wasn't my fault, and I left the scene thinking I was going to be fine even knowing I could only move 1 leg. Things have gotten better over the years, but not my neck, memory, ect.
Well looks like Gen1dak has got you covered, anyways use the picture I posted on here to find it. I showed you where it would be on the transmission so look on the passenger side of where the transmission bolts to the engine.
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2012, 02:35 PM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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I see the sensor now, no way to remove it without taking the exhaust apart. I don't think this exhaust is the original. At the garage they said the headers aren't even right, and with the headers on the truck its more of a hot rod sound. I hope everything will be fine without me replacing the gaskets on the exhaust. Ran out of funds on this project a long time ago.
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2012, 02:10 PM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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Just messed my neck up worse, but the job is done. Truck still stalls, and backfires. I did notice a really big increase in power, but am thinking its cause I rewired the oxygen sensor. The wires where pushed in a connector, and taped up, but the connector was missing a clip to secure it to the other end. Would've been better electrical taped together without the connector, but I did it the right way. I bought 4 connectors for both sides that slide into each other, and electrical taped it all up. When the truck stalled today it was cranking for a while, turned it off, turned it back to start, and it started almost instantly. Did I ruin the oxygen sensor? I couldn't remove it so I was messing with it for a while before discovering the electrical tape mess. I am almost 100% sure all the wires are connected to the right wire. After I removed the exhaust this job was so easy like you guys said it would be. Just makes me mad the exhaust was in the way or I could've had this done less then 3 hours.
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  #15  
Old 05-17-2012, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
Just messed my neck up worse, but the job is done. Truck still stalls, and backfires. I did notice a really big increase in power, but am thinking its cause I rewired the oxygen sensor. The wires where pushed in a connector, and taped up, but the connector was missing a clip to secure it to the other end. Would've been better electrical taped together without the connector, but I did it the right way. I bought 4 connectors for both sides that slide into each other, and electrical taped it all up. When the truck stalled today it was cranking for a while, turned it off, turned it back to start, and it started almost instantly. Did I ruin the oxygen sensor? I couldn't remove it so I was messing with it for a while before discovering the electrical tape mess. I am almost 100% sure all the wires are connected to the right wire. After I removed the exhaust this job was so easy like you guys said it would be. Just makes me mad the exhaust was in the way or I could've had this done less then 3 hours.
Hmm... Umm hmm, this has got me thinking. There are many things to cause a truck to stall could be anything from a loose plug wire to a busted up transmission. Tell me does it stall out only when you're idling or does it stall when cruising and accelerating? I have a feeling it's either going to be something like a bad distributor cap and/or rotor. It could be the cam position sensor, or it may be the fuel pump not being able to deliver enough fuel but if the pump was the case then you would throw a lean fuel mixture code. You know what it may be, if it stalls out when you're idling it could be the IAC on the throttle body, it's a classic symptom actually. If you have already cleaned the throttle body and the IAC you might as well, you can use any non-caustic carb cleaner, I prefer to use carb cleaner because it's cheap and it does the job some people use throttle body cleaner, it's the same stuff except the TB cleaner is sensor safe. But you shouldn't be spraying that stuff all over the electronics anyways, the only part of the dam IAC you are going to clean is the pintle and that's about it.

Anyway's back on try, check the distributor cap and rotor, check the wires make sure everything is nice and snug and routed properly. But check out that throttle body.
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  #16  
Old 05-17-2012, 05:09 PM
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Distributor cap, wires, plugs are all new. I just went out to start the truck, and it cranks, but won't start now. Thats what it did before, and I was messing with the oxygen sensor wires, and it started. I have the wires the same way as it was when I drove it for a test drive. The gas lights been on for a while, but I put in $20.00 worth of gas, and drove maybe 10 miles. I just put another $10.00 in just for kicks, and it still won't fire up. After cranking a while I got it to start for about 1 sec, and then shut off. I even had the gas pedal pressed down when it started for 1 sec.

Maybe it is the fuel pump, but I have no clue. I just want to sell this dang thing, but keep sinking dang money into it.I want it running right when I sell it. Also when I cleaned the throttle body I did clean the IAC valve. I used carb cleaner also. I don't go around spraying electronics, sensors, ect.

Last edited by dodgeram500; 05-17-2012 at 05:12 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2012, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
Distributor cap, wires, plugs are all new. I just went out to start the truck, and it cranks, but won't start now. Thats what it did before, and I was messing with the oxygen sensor wires, and it started. I have the wires the same way as it was when I drove it for a test drive. The gas lights been on for a while, but I put in $20.00 worth of gas, and drove maybe 10 miles. I just put another $10.00 in just for kicks, and it still won't fire up. After cranking a while I got it to start for about 1 sec, and then shut off. I even had the gas pedal pressed down when it started for 1 sec.

Maybe it is the fuel pump, but I have no clue. I just want to sell this dang thing, but keep sinking dang money into it.I want it running right when I sell it. Also when I cleaned the throttle body I did clean the IAC valve. I used carb cleaner also. I don't go around spraying electronics, sensors, ect.
I don't think it's the pump because like I said you would show a lean mixture code. But it doesn't mean a thing, many times have things appeared to be working and then few miles down the road they leave you stranded. If you drive the truck over to a auto part store you can borrow there fuel pressure test gauge, you would connect it to the test port on the fuel rail. Pressure should read 43PSI +/- 3 PSI, if it reads 35 PSI give or take a few PSI then the pump is weak and should be replaced.

If I where you I would have a better scan tool hooked up to the truck so you can do more advanced tests, if you can find someone with a DRB2 or Snap-On MT2500 you can do advanced tests and get sensor data such as voltages and readings like pressure, temps, and so on. I'm starting to get a sense if it isn't the pump or the fuel sync... fuel sync hmm could be fuel sync, you haven't moved the position of the distributor have you? If you move it you can throw the fuel sync off, the snap on and drb2 scanner will be able to tell you how many degrees it's dial in. Anyways there is a good chance that maybe the ECM is no good, truck is old and the ECM sits outside the truck (stupid) but they did it for some good reasons.
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  #18  
Old 05-18-2012, 12:33 AM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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Could it be the oxygen sensor though? Before when I was messing with the wires it didn't start, then I switched the wires for the oxygen sensor, and it started. I did test drive it with the wires the way they are right now, but that doesn't mean they are wired correctly. The adaptors for the oxygen sensor, and the harness on the truck where broke, and pushed together with lots of tape holding them in place.

After replacing the crankshaft position sensor, and making the oxygen sensor have a better connection I did notice a big performance boost. Before I would accelerate, and by the time it would take to hit 30mph I hit 60mph today. I am so used to not having power, but when I test drove it I had power again. Not sure what caused that, but its either the oxygen sensor being wired badly or the crankshaft sensor.
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  #19  
Old 05-18-2012, 12:41 AM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
Could it be the oxygen sensor though? Before when I was messing with the wires it didn't start, then I switched the wires for the oxygen sensor, and it started. I did test drive it with the wires the way they are right now, but that doesn't mean they are wired correctly. The adaptors for the oxygen sensor, and the harness on the truck where broke, and pushed together with lots of tape holding them in place.

After replacing the crankshaft position sensor, and making the oxygen sensor have a better connection I did notice a big performance boost. Before I would accelerate, and by the time it would take to hit 30mph I hit 60mph today. I am so used to not having power, but when I test drove it I had power again. Not sure what caused that, but its either the oxygen sensor being wired badly or the crankshaft sensor.
Well if the O2 sensor connector is broken then yea it can be the cause of the issue, you're better off fixing that connector I think I have a wiring diagram and I'm sure autozone sells fix it connectors so with that and the diagram you're good to go. Afterward I still think you should have the ECM connected to a professional scan tool so you can test the sensors.

But yea the O2 sensor can be the problem, hell if there is an ECM in the equation it can be anything that ECM talks to.
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  #20  
Old 05-18-2012, 10:02 AM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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I got the truck started this morning. Kept cranking her battery died, jumped it, and soon after it started. I revved her up for a little, it did try to stall once I moved it into my driveway. It was in the yard cause the driveway isn't big enough for all the vehicles around here. Anyway, I hooked up my check engine light reader, found 2 codes. P0123, and P1391. P0123 is a throttle pedal sensor, and p1391 is for the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. I am guessing P1391 will go out unless I have to replace the camshaft sensor.
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