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  #21  
Old 05-18-2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
I got the truck started this morning. Kept cranking her battery died, jumped it, and soon after it started. I revved her up for a little, it did try to stall once I moved it into my driveway. It was in the yard cause the driveway isn't big enough for all the vehicles around here. Anyway, I hooked up my check engine light reader, found 2 codes. P0123, and P1391. P0123 is a throttle pedal sensor, and p1391 is for the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. I am guessing P1391 will go out unless I have to replace the camshaft sensor.
Well to test the TPS throttle position sensor, you can connect a ohm meter to the sensor, if would want to connect one test lead on the far right pin and the other lead on the middle pin, then slowly press down on the pedal, the resistance should change smoothly, if there is a sudden dip then the sensor isn't good. If you had or known someone who had a MT2500 or DRB2 that you could use then you could just hook up the tool to the truck and it you can just see the voltages and resistance on the tool.

But instead of just replacing part after part which is expensive just try taking the individual parts out and test them. Also be sure to have the fuel pressure check done just to eliminate the fuel system.
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  #22  
Old 05-18-2012, 11:32 AM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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Ok, I will check the voltage then. Is it just 1 sensor? Or is their a throttle pedal sensor, and a Throttle positon sensor?

I have a multimeter, and an engine tool, but not a good one that will tell voltages.

The sensor read 4.37 with pedal at normal position, then when the petal was all the way down it read 1. something. Not sure the exact number.

I just ordered a new sensor cause my local store wants $40.00, and I buy from other places where I can get the same part for a lot less.

Last edited by dodgeram500; 05-18-2012 at 11:50 AM.
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  #23  
Old 05-18-2012, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
Ok, I will check the voltage then. Is it just 1 sensor? Or is their a throttle pedal sensor, and a Throttle positon sensor?

I have a multimeter, and an engine tool, but not a good one that will tell voltages.

The sensor read 4.37 with pedal at normal position, then when the petal was all the way down it read 1. something. Not sure the exact number.

I just ordered a new sensor cause my local store wants $40.00, and I buy from other places where I can get the same part for a lot less.
It doesn't matter what it's reading as long as the measurement increases and decreases smoothly with no drops. You should save up a couple hundred and buy a MT2500 off ebay, good little tool to have. The MT2500 only works up to 2005 I believe but it's a good tool to keep around.

Anyways the only sensor on the throttle body are MAP and TPS. Then there is a IAC stepper motor. The pedal sensor is the throttle position sensor.
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  #24  
Old 05-18-2012, 01:39 PM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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Ok. It went straight from 4.37 down to 1. No other numbers like 3. or 2. something. Straight from 4 to 1.

Thanks for clarifying that for me. When I checked the code they made it seem like their is a pedal position sensor, and a throttle position sensor. If this sensor doesn't do it I will have the fuel pump preasure looked at. Thanks.
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  #25  
Old 05-18-2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
Ok. It went straight from 4.37 down to 1. No other numbers like 3. or 2. something. Straight from 4 to 1.

Thanks for clarifying that for me. When I checked the code they made it seem like their is a pedal position sensor, and a throttle position sensor. If this sensor doesn't do it I will have the fuel pump preasure looked at. Thanks.
You are doing a ohm test not a voltage test right? Make sure you do it without the keys in the ignition.

I doubt it would be the TPS to cause the truck to stall at idle, if the TPS has a problem then you will have an erratic 3-4 shift. But anything is possible, electronics...
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  #26  
Old 05-18-2012, 02:59 PM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
You are doing a ohm test not a voltage test right? Make sure you do it without the keys in the ignition.

I doubt it would be the TPS to cause the truck to stall at idle, if the TPS has a problem then you will have an erratic 3-4 shift. But anything is possible, electronics...
I was testing dc current, and the volts said 0 unless I had the key switched to accessory.

Its still having a tough time starting, and I read the TPS has something to do with the truck not wanting to start all the time. The stalling is probably the camshaft position sensor. Not sure if that was ever replaced, but thats what I am thinking.

Also when I raise the rpm's, and let go of the gas it goes way down below 1, sometimes comes back, and other times stalls.

Last edited by dodgeram500; 05-18-2012 at 03:02 PM.
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  #27  
Old 05-18-2012, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgeram500 View Post
I was testing dc current, and the volts said 0 unless I had the key switched to accessory.

Its still having a tough time starting, and I read the TPS has something to do with the truck not wanting to start all the time. The stalling is probably the camshaft position sensor. Not sure if that was ever replaced, but thats what I am thinking.

Also when I raise the rpm's, and let go of the gas it goes way down below 1, sometimes comes back, and other times stalls.
That sounds like it may be the cam position sensor for sure, remove the distributor cap and rotor, then remove the black insert that is in the distributor. Someones alot of dirt collects inside of the distributor and it messes with the sensor, the sensor is magnetic but that doesn't mean a thing.
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  #28  
Old 05-18-2012, 08:09 PM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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Is there an easy way to remove the distributor cap? Can't really see it since its behind the engine under metal. Could it just be dirty?

By the way the crankshaft sensor did need replaced. I just cleaned the old one today, and saw cracks in it. Its crazy how all these sensors are going right now.

Whenever I try to sell a car I have issues with it. Never have I been able to list a car in good running condition, and then after I list it, it has issues. Never fails. This is my 5th vehicle, and I listed my car for sale which is newer, but I need money, and now the car is having issues which are mostly fixed. Somebody in a lifted truck came at me with my car, and would've ran right over top of it if I hadn't gone offroad, and hit a few signs.

Last edited by dodgeram500; 05-18-2012 at 08:22 PM.
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  #29  
Old 05-18-2012, 08:20 PM
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Is there an easy way to remove the distributor cap? Can't really see it since its behind the engine under metal.
It's simple, you just have to remove the cap 2 screws and the sensor sits right inside the distributor itself.
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  #30  
Old 05-18-2012, 08:34 PM
dodgeram500 dodgeram500 is offline
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I removed it once before, but thought maybe there is an easier way.
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