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  #21  
Old 07-18-2012, 03:51 PM
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I used what O'Reilly had for the stock plugs, and the numbers for the NGK plugs. They have an advanced plug builder where you enter the specs you need and it spits out the part numbers for matching plugs. Stock heat range for the new motors is 5, so a heat range 6 is what you want for nitrous. The intake plugs are the same for both the 4.7 and the 5.7....that was an easy one. The exhaust plugs are a little bit tricky. I got as close as I could. I would have to see the plug to make sure it was the same except the heat range.

http://ngk.com/search_char.asp?seenW...nufacturerID=1

Thread size: 14MM
Hex Head: 5/8"
Gap: .043
Seat: Gasket
Terminal: Solid
Heat Range: 5 stock, 6 for one step colder
Reach: 1.04"
Resistor: yes

Stock exhaust plug: 97606
Laser Platinum Spark Plug, 14mm Thread, 26.5mm (1.04") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex, Resistor, Solid Terminal Nut, Extended Projected Center Electrode, Platinum Tipped Center and Ground Electrode, Heat Range 5.

Heat range 6 plug: 5987
Extra Long Life Double Platinum Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 26.5mm (1.04") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Extended Projected Tip, Solid Terminal, Extended Projection, Wide Gap, Fine Point Platinum Center Electrode and Platinum Tip Laser Welded on Ground Electrode, .043" (1.1mm) Gap, Heat Range 6

Last edited by 916Timmy; 07-18-2012 at 03:58 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-18-2012, 04:03 PM
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I thought the OEM hemi plug(same for intake/exhaust side) was the Champion copper part number RE14MCC4?
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  #23  
Old 07-18-2012, 04:59 PM
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Or the NGK, I think people have been finding both on 30K swaps
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  #24  
Old 07-18-2012, 05:03 PM
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Ok. The OEM plug for the intake side of the 4.7L is the Bosch yttrium with two ground electrodes though. Whether or not it makes much if any difference to use the OEM hemi plug
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  #25  
Old 07-18-2012, 05:15 PM
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I'm going to do some more research before changing my plugs, but from what I can tell, yttrium is only used in these plugs to resist wear and oxidation. So going to a regular copper core plug(with the same specs) and not having yttrium would simply reduce plug life. You will probably have to change them every 30k miles instead of every 50k miles. The only other difference would be you will only have one ground electrode instead of two(I think this doesn't effect power, it is just to help reduce the chance of fouling).

Same with the iridiums that are yttrium enhanced(exhaust plug). You'd probably need to change a regular iridium(without yttrium) that has all the other same specs every 60-70k miles instead of every 100k miles.
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  #26  
Old 07-18-2012, 05:16 PM
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I have no idea....just a guess! I luckily don't have the dilema of a 4.7



I'll try to see what that bosch plug looks like and get back to ya!

Edit: The double platinum NGK plugs are "extra long life"

The only difference from Bosch to NGK is the two electrodes metal. NGK is double platinum, Bosch is Iridium & Nickel-Yttrium

Both are still copper core plugs

Last edited by 916Timmy; 07-18-2012 at 05:22 PM.
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  #27  
Old 07-18-2012, 09:43 PM
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Damn there are a lot of spark plugs out there lol. I'm actually having trouble finding all the needed info online. Wish I had some catalogs of all each manufacturers plugs...

Here's what I found that Bosch, Champion, and NGK offer for replacements for the 4.7L according to their websites:


Bosch (OEM)
Intake Side.................FR8TE2
Exhaust Side.............................................. ...............FR8TI332
Center Electrode Core...Nickel-Yttrium and Copper.............Iridium
Center Electrode Tip.....Nickel-Yttrium.............................Iridium
Ground Electrode..........Nickel-Yttrium and Copper.........Nickel-Yttrium
Reach........................26.5mm............... .....................26.5mm
Ground Electrodes..........2............................. ..................1


Champion
Intake Side................REC12MCC4
Exhaust Side.............................................. ..9055
Center Electrode Core.....Copper.....................Iridium
Center Electrode Tip.......Copper.....................Iridium
Ground Electrode............Copper....................Pla tinum
Reach............................26.5mm........... .......26.5mm
Ground Electrodes..............1......................... ...1


NGK
Intake Side................LZFR5C-11 (OEM 5.7 plug)
Exhaust Side.............................................. ........PLZFR5B13EG
Center Electrode Core............Copper
Center Electrode Tip..............Copper......................Plati num
Ground Electrode......................................... .........Platinum
Reach.................................26.5mm...... ................26.5mm
Ground Electrodes....................1................... ...........1
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Last edited by snrusnak; 07-18-2012 at 09:47 PM.
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  #28  
Old 07-18-2012, 10:10 PM
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From what I understand, multiple electrodes does nothing for performance(and may actually slightly decrease it from shrouding the spark). The purpose of multiple electrodes is to provide longer plug life. Electricity takes path of least resistance so you still only get 1 spark between the center electrode and 1 ground electrode, but the plug lasts twice as long since you have two ground electrodes. Once one gets carbon buildup on it or fouled then it will fire on the other ground electrode.

So IMO screw the dual ground electrode design.

Same with yttrium, it appears to only be for longevity, don't worry about it.

So IMO there are a few options here...

Let's start with the exhaust side plug. I'd definitely replace it with another plug that has an iridium center electrode tip and a nickel ground electrode. This gives you basically the same plug as stock(minus yttrium enhanced ground electrode), so should last close to 100,000 miles.

The intake side has more options depending on your preference. You could choose a plug that has a nickel center electrode tip and a nickel ground electrode. This plug should last AT LEAST 30k miles, maybe longer. You could also go with a copper core and tip plug that would probably only last up to 30k mile(and have a decrease in performance as mileage increases). Another option would be to go with an iridium plug, this would give a longer lasting plug with best performance(I think...lol).

Basically, all materials pretty much give the same performance when new. The reason the "better" materials are "better" is because the metals don't erode, and maintain a strong and positive spark with miles, so they don't decrease in performance as the lower grade materials do.

It appears that the OEM 4.7L plugs are "special" designed for that engine, so you won't find the same plug in a colder heat range. Going to another plug shouldn't decrease performance(assuming a proper plug is chosen) but longevity MIGHT decrease a little.
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Last edited by snrusnak; 07-18-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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  #29  
Old 07-18-2012, 10:13 PM
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AND if you are spraying, you should be pulling plugs to check them a little more often than 30000 miles
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  #30  
Old 07-18-2012, 10:17 PM
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^I have spark plug info overload lol
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