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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.7 HEMI V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 5.7-liter HEMI® V8 engine - 390 horsepower, 407 lb-ft of torque.


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  #41  
Old 07-13-2012, 07:32 PM
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I ordered the dry filter because I wanted better filtration as opposed to the oiled filter.

When you figure in the cost of the cleaning kit for the oiled filters it is basically the same price as buying a new disposable filter.

Oiled=flows better
Paper=filters better

The choice is up to you, I don't think it's a bad one either way.
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  #42  
Old 07-13-2012, 08:13 PM
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Yeah I don't figure you will go wrong with either choice.
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  #43  
Old 07-13-2012, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinGoodyear View Post
Have a question though...what made you decide to use the "rechargeable" , air cleaner versus the dry?
Seeing as you asked, then I'll forward MY opinion on the oiled VS dry filter argument.

I'm a huge advocate of oiled intake filters and have been using them for many years without a single issue to date.

The number one reason oiled intake filters have had a bad reputation for many years is because there's a school of thought who claim that the oil used to lubricate the filter can/will contaminate your MAF sensor and next thing you know you’re up some serious dollars replacing it. This is total hog-wash! Ask any reputable CAI company and they'll back up my statement. In fact, try and find me one person with an oiled filter who dmaged their MAF sensor and the dealership/manufacturer proved that the oiled filter was the culprit.... I've heard about these folks but have yet to meet one. The ONLY time this will happen is due ONLY to user/operator error which in turn is the result of improper abilities to follow manufacturer's instructions. It comes to the "more-is-better" mentality of people who flood there filters with oil when it's time to recharging the filter, re-install them and wonder why they're up for a new MAF sensor in no time. The best analogy I can use is it's no different to over-filling one of your oil reservoirs in your vehicle [engine oil, transmission oil, brake fluid, differential etc...]; what do you expect the consequences to be? Your user manual and your dealership CLEARLY advise you NOT to top these levels beyond the maximum line or damage can/will occur. Exactly the same thing.

The absolute best way around this, if you're still a little "iffy" about lubricating your own oiled filter when the time comes, is to purchase a brand new oiled filter from the manufacturer. This way you know for certain the precise amount of oil has been applied so you'll rest assured that it won't cost you anymore in damaged parts [MAF]. Though I'll point out that this is not a very financially viable method for most.... though it is FAR cheaper to purchase an oiled filter $50-$100] then an OEM MAF sensor [$300-$500]

Filtration is another reason. An oiled filter, by its very nature, will capture far more debris then a dry filter, period. This is due to two reasons: the main reason is that because the filter is oiled, that lubricant acts almost like an adhesive for any traveling dirt/debris within the filter's region. So its filtration capabilities, in comparison to a dry filter, are far more superior. Is this not one of the main reason people upgrade their filter? The second is the quality between the two. If you've ever held an oiled and dry filter from the SAME manufacturer in your hand, you'll see that the fabric and weight quality of the oiled filter is a LOT better than its counterpart. This weight difference is not just because of the oil soaked into the filter, as usually it's only about 1-3 oz. of oil used. A manufacturer once told me [many years ago when I was picking anyone and everyone's brains] that the gauze material AND layers used in oiled filters is always more heavy duty than those found on dry filters.

Air flow is in the calculation too, as it righfully should be. As blackram12 mentioned above, S&B Filter's test show that their oiled filters for the CAI in this review have a better flow rate then their dry counterparts. I'm actually surprised these numbers are pretty close to one another. I've always believed that oiled filters have at the LEAST a 10-percent better flow rate then the dry filters. But I'm not going to question S&B Filters' numbers as I'm in no position to, given I do not have the resources, means or brain capacity to carry out the extensive testing they have [surely] completed. The reason they flow better is because, even though they collect more debris and whatnot then dry filters [conventional wisdom will tell you more debris means more clogging meaning less flow], they do NOT have conventional holes that block flow like dry paper filters do. Now I don't remember the exact science behind this, and I'm not about to try and make it up - and someone with more knowledge and know-how is more than welcome to contribute and explain [please] - but this is due to the construction and materials used, as a manufacturer clearly explained to me many years ago at a car show; though my aging memory forgets the exact reasoning

Finally is longevity which equates to bang-for-bucks. This'll be brief. Because you're regularly having to change your dry filter [based on mileage and/or driving conditions/environments] you could be forking out some decent $$$'s over the life of the ownership of the vehicle. Yes, there are some high quality dry filters which you can wash/dry and re-use, but even the manufacturers of these products will [should] tell you, that the repeated cleaning/drying process over time will degrade its potency. Why? Inferior build material in comparison to an oiled, heavily pleated, air filter. Oiled intake filters? They're good for life and never need replacing.... as long as they're cleaned, oiled and maintained per manufacture’s recommendations.

But like I started this reply with, this is MY opinion only based on my experiences and research over the years, as I'm sure those advocates of dry intake filters will/can forward a decent argument. Because these points on oiled intake filters are my personal opinions, I'm NOT interested in getting into a slinging match with anyone who's on the other side.

Hope this has helped your decision in some way.



Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinGoodyear View Post
Also, what other changes could you recommend to someone like me (and others Im sure) if we wanted to make some mod to our trucks? Thanks, Kevin in Dallas


I've been following pretty much the same priciple for all vehicles I've owned over the years where "basic" bolt-on parts were used to improve the performance [except for a couple of vehicles where I went a little further in search of HP].

A quality/proven catback exhaust system, a quality/proven cold air intake, a quality/proven larger throttle body, and a quality/proven canned or [preferably] custom tune has given me great results in the past. We do not have the tune side available for our trucks just yet but, honestly, based on recent email exchanges I've had with manufacturers, I have NOT given up hope.

Notice that I put "quality/proven " on each of those recommendations.

The very BEST advice I can give you is this: REASEARCH and then research some more!

Read forums of this nature where people give opinions/reviews [good or bad] on products they've used. Sure, manufacturer's numbers/picturers/wordings posted on their webpages are pretty and very drawing to the naked eye, but this all serves a specific purpose. They are masters at marketing tools-n-tricks that will bewilder you; but remember at the day's end they're a business trying to earn yours/their paycheck so of course they're going to make their products sound and look like the very best of its kind available. There's absolutely nothing wrong with this approach as it's nature of the beast [business]. However, real-world users like you, I, and the rest of this board's members are the ones you should be paying extra attention to. Only folks like you-n-eye have truly fitted and tested these products over a prolonged period.... not just over the course of 24RS or so of testing.

And finally, EVERY opportunity you get, pick the bee-jeesus out of people-in-the-know's brains. I did this for many years and it's made me a better consumer for it.

At the day's end, weigh up ALL your research [pros and cons] and pick the products that best suit YOUR needs.

Good luck.
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  #44  
Old 07-18-2012, 12:37 AM
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Any update on MPG difference?
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  #45  
Old 07-18-2012, 11:28 AM
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Im still calculating the intake's MPG numbers as I've finally puled my right foot off the floorboard.

I have a lengthy out-of-state trip next week (a combination of interstates, back roads and city stop-n-start) and even a longer one mid-August so I'll have an accurate idea of MPG gains (or lackthereof) by the end of August ... with almost 2500 miles accumulated since I started doing the numbers about a week after installation.

I haven't forgotten.
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  #46  
Old 07-19-2012, 12:02 AM
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Curious,,,
I used to have an Airaid MXP CAI (with tube)

It was set up so you could run the OEM 'rubber' inlet tube directly to the Airaid box/filter, or run the (supplied with certain kits) Airaid tube.

Moral of that story was the inlet diameter of the Airaid tube was the same as the OEM tube.

The filter base was ~6~ or so inches around, but they choked it down to match the OEM tube inlet diameter.

Never thought much about it, other than they made it that way to enable folks who didn't want to spring for the Airaid tube to use the OEM tube.

Saw some pics of the S + B and I see its about the same scenario,,, the inlet of their pipe is small compared to the end attached to the TB. Once again, a large diameter filter base reduced down to a small diameter at the airbox,,,

Not saying it's right, not sayin it's wrong, but it's obvious more than one MFG of CAI's does this 'reduction', so there must be some reasoning behind it.

As the S/B kit already comes with a replacement tube,,,, the reasoning behind this reduced diameter cannot be 'just to enable the user to not have to purchase a tube'

So,,,, why do CAI manufactures use a filter with a ~6~ diameter base and immediatley choke the flow down at the inlet end of the tube only to increase the diameter again before it gets to the TB???

Not all CAI's are like that, but more than (1) is,,,

Also, is the inlet diameter of the S + B tube the same diameter as the inlet of the OEM tube?

FWIW, I think the S + B has a lot of things going for it, and its design / layout just 'seems to make sense'

TIA.

Last edited by HoustonHemi; 07-19-2012 at 12:06 AM.
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  #47  
Old 07-19-2012, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHemi View Post
The filter base was ~6~ or so inches around, but they choked it down to match the OEM tube inlet diameter.

Never thought much about it, other than they made it that way to enable folks who didn't want to spring for the Airaid tube to use the OEM tube.

Saw some pics of the S + B and I see its about the same scenario,,, the inlet of their pipe is small compared to the end attached to the TB. Once again, a large diameter filter base reduced down to a small diameter at the airbox,,,
Not sure what part you're speaking of here. Post one of the pics from my OP if it helps you explain.

Please explain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHemi View Post
Also, is the inlet diameter of the S + B tube the same diameter as the inlet of the OEM tube?.
No idea.

The OEM tube is an accordian type and, while it was on the truck it didn't really surpise me that it moved around freely with very little user effort. However, I was actually shocked how flimsy it felt upon removal. Typical OE product [for the most part].

Like I posted earlier, there's absolutley no reason why a CAI kit should have ANY play once it's [correctly] assembled.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHemi View Post
FWIW, I think the S + B has a lot of things going for it, and its design / layout just 'seems to make sense'.
I agree.
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  #48  
Old 07-19-2012, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonHemi View Post
Curious,,,
I used to have an Airaid MXP CAI (with tube)

It was set up so you could run the OEM 'rubber' inlet tube directly to the Airaid box/filter, or run the (supplied with certain kits) Airaid tube.

Moral of that story was the inlet diameter of the Airaid tube was the same as the OEM tube.

The filter base was ~6~ or so inches around, but they choked it down to match the OEM tube inlet diameter.

Never thought much about it, other than they made it that way to enable folks who didn't want to spring for the Airaid tube to use the OEM tube.

Saw some pics of the S + B and I see its about the same scenario,,, the inlet of their pipe is small compared to the end attached to the TB. Once again, a large diameter filter base reduced down to a small diameter at the airbox,,,

Not saying it's right, not sayin it's wrong, but it's obvious more than one MFG of CAI's does this 'reduction', so there must be some reasoning behind it.

As the S/B kit already comes with a replacement tube,,,, the reasoning behind this reduced diameter cannot be 'just to enable the user to not have to purchase a tube'

So,,,, why do CAI manufactures use a filter with a ~6~ diameter base and immediatley choke the flow down at the inlet end of the tube only to increase the diameter again before it gets to the TB???

Not all CAI's are like that, but more than (1) is,,,

Also, is the inlet diameter of the S + B tube the same diameter as the inlet of the OEM tube?

FWIW, I think the S + B has a lot of things going for it, and its design / layout just 'seems to make sense'

TIA.
even BFI intakes are like that, HUGE filters and pipe then reduced to the TB to match up- if not then your TB will have to be 6+ inches to match with the intake tube. i think our TB's are 3 inches in dia. so no matter what, a bigger intake will have to be reduced
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  #49  
Old 07-19-2012, 03:04 PM
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Pic from another thread.

See the rubber 'doughnuts' (Hump Hose) next to each other? Quite a difference in diameter from one end to the other, with the 'airbox' end (or what I assume to be the airbox end!?!?) a lot smaller,,,

Is that end the same diameter as the OEM airbox, or does the small doughnut go to the TB?

If it's smaller at the airbox and gets larger towards the TB, Why not use the same size on each end instead?

Other observations of CAI's,,,

BFI goes 'the other direction',,, Basically a big azz funnel that starts LARGE and tapers down to the TB.

Don't quote me, but I believe some CAI's (K + N? BruteForce/Mopar) have a 'constant' diameter intake tube...

Airaid has the same diameter at the airbox as the OEM tube... The Airaid tube increases in diameter by the time it gets to the TB and then gets reduced with a hump hose at the TB

Again, not saying right, not saying wrong,,, might have my wires crossed on the S + B, but I've owned the Airaid and had both the OEM and airaid intake tubes on my truck. Kinda weird to have a big azz filter then a small diameter connection at the airbox, then a tube that gets bigger and is then reduced at the TB.
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Last edited by HoustonHemi; 07-19-2012 at 03:30 PM.
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  #50  
Old 07-19-2012, 03:15 PM
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More pics of the 'filter' and 'tube' sides of the airbox.

Can't really tell how big it is,,,

I'm basically just comparing the doughnut diameters in my last post,,,

Large doughnut on TB and small doughnut on airbox, or the opposite?
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Last edited by HoustonHemi; 07-19-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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