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  #1  
Old 07-14-2012, 06:48 PM
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Default No neutral, hops in reverse

Here's the deal - 96 1500 4x4 with a 46re. Replaced the TC and pressure solenoids as well as the pressure sensor because they were throwing codes. I had replaced the u joints at the same time (cheap Duralast parts). It has, as long as I've had it, hopped a little when taking off, much like wheel hop but it's at mild acceleration so I pretty much ruled that out. It hasn't been too bad so I've just kinda lived with it. Starting the other day, it now takes a couple of whacks on the gas in order for reverse to engage, which it then does pretty violently. While backing up the truck hops severely. If I take my foot off the gas, it doesn't roll more than a foot or so before stopping. In forward, if you take your foot off the gas it will creep like expected but in reverse it feels like something is holding it back. I first suspected the hopping was the cheap u joints so this morning I bought new Spicer units and installed them (the old ones were loose on one end and really tight on the other, pretty much junk). The truck is smoother but the hopping still exists in reverse, didn't notice it in forward. Something I noticed today as well is I have no neutral. I can start the truck in indicated neutral but it will creep forward like it's in gear. Nudging it towards R just engages reverse. True neutral doesn't seem to exist. All these issues happen regardless if it is in 4x4 or 2WD. If I have the T-case in neutral, the truck will roll forward or backwards as expecting so I've pretty much ruled out any binding in the driveline after the Tcase.
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2012, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoopyIsMyHero View Post
Here's the deal - 96 1500 4x4 with a 46re. Replaced the TC and pressure solenoids as well as the pressure sensor because they were throwing codes. I had replaced the u joints at the same time (cheap Duralast parts). It has, as long as I've had it, hopped a little when taking off, much like wheel hop but it's at mild acceleration so I pretty much ruled that out. It hasn't been too bad so I've just kinda lived with it. Starting the other day, it now takes a couple of whacks on the gas in order for reverse to engage, which it then does pretty violently. While backing up the truck hops severely. If I take my foot off the gas, it doesn't roll more than a foot or so before stopping. In forward, if you take your foot off the gas it will creep like expected but in reverse it feels like something is holding it back. I first suspected the hopping was the cheap u joints so this morning I bought new Spicer units and installed them (the old ones were loose on one end and really tight on the other, pretty much junk). The truck is smoother but the hopping still exists in reverse, didn't notice it in forward. Something I noticed today as well is I have no neutral. I can start the truck in indicated neutral but it will creep forward like it's in gear. Nudging it towards R just engages reverse. True neutral doesn't seem to exist. All these issues happen regardless if it is in 4x4 or 2WD. If I have the T-case in neutral, the truck will roll forward or backwards as expecting so I've pretty much ruled out any binding in the driveline after the Tcase.
Creeping in Neutral is generally a result of a mis-adjusted gear shift linkage. The worst case is that valve body is malfunctioning or the rear clutch is warped from heat. I would start out by checking the linkage, then move to the valve body.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:04 PM
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I checked the linkage first, even though I can't think of anything I would have done to mess it up to begin with. I cannot find a spot where I have neutral, either I have reverse or creeping forward. I'm kinda, unfortunately, leaning towards the warped rear clutch since I know this thing was run low on fluid. I'll drop the pan this week and check stuff out.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoopyIsMyHero View Post
I checked the linkage first, even though I can't think of anything I would have done to mess it up to begin with. I cannot find a spot where I have neutral, either I have reverse or creeping forward. I'm kinda, unfortunately, leaning towards the warped rear clutch since I know this thing was run low on fluid. I'll drop the pan this week and check stuff out.
Eww I hope it's not a rear clutch. Not that it's anything hard to repair it's just do you really want to remove the transmission.... But double check on that linkage, I would check out that valve body, make sure it isn't cross leaking or warped.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:10 PM
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Now it is starting to slip at accelerating in all gears once rolling. It will shudder bit at first then slip. Looks like I'm definitely taking a look at it in the next day or so. Arg.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoopyIsMyHero View Post
Now it is starting to slip at accelerating in all gears once rolling. It will shudder bit at first then slip. Looks like I'm definitely taking a look at it in the next day or so. Arg.
Slipping isn't a good sign, if so it certainly would be a failed rear clutch, of course it could be a failed pump but normally in that circumstance there would be a nice whining noise present in all gears.

Sounds like it is going to need a rebuild, PM me to future discuss this.
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:45 PM
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Rebuild kit along with new solenoids and sensors arrived today. Let the fun begin!
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  #8  
Old 08-08-2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoopyIsMyHero View Post
Rebuild kit along with new solenoids and sensors arrived today. Let the fun begin!
It's fun, I'm starting to think of getting out of the building business. I say this because for the first time in my life of building one transmission failed well atleast I believe it has but the vehicle it is in well needs a TON of work. But hey during your rebuild if you need help questions whatever just ask I am always happy to answer them.

Today you with your trans, me with my A/C system. Just rebuilt the A/C system. New O-Rings, New Rear Expansion Valve, New Front Expansion Valve, New Valve Cores, New Drier, New Seals, I took apart the compressor cleaned it out, New Oil W/ICE 32. I put new Cork Tape on the rear expansion valve and lines and just finished vacuuming and adding oil then that hurricane caught up to me so now I have to sit on my hands until the storm is over so I can do a final vacuum and then install the refrigerant. But damn the luck, storm comes over. I still have to replace all the interior, clean the carpet, clean the seats and sofa/bed. I also have to take out the driver side interior so I can replace the old R11 insulation with R13, things have been hectic on my end.

Well anyways we both have our projects ahead of us so best of luck to you, maybe you won't get caught in the storm.

And remember, you get stuck, have questions just ask me.
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Old 08-08-2012, 10:41 PM
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Hope you got through the hurricane ok! I'm lucky, we don't get weather like that up my way, even when we get 'hurricanes' it's more like a bad thunderstorm. Of course, the blizzards make up for it... Way to go on the AC rebuild. I eventually have to tackle that too.

So I had to move the truck to the driveway so I had a good, clean place to work (was parked on the lawn) and when I tried to move it, no go. No forward. No reverse. Since I'd rather lie on my back than push it, for giggles I dropped the pan and replaced the governor solenoid since I had it and I knew it was bad. The fluid looked like crap and there was a TON of grey sludge in the pan (about 500 miles on this fluid) and the end of the old governor was covered with sludge too. Cleaned stuff up quick, tossed in the governor and YAY, it moves. Reverse actually works without shuddering or a delay. Still have the slippage in the upper RPMs with anything beyond part throttle with a mild shudder before it slips, very much like a slipping clutch in a manual. I had to run to the store to get an inch\pound torque wrench so I used the truck. What I noticed that I failed to notice before is the TC never locks up. Now it's throwing a TC solenoid code but could it actually be the TC that is bad? I'm still going to do the rebuild cuz it does creep in neutral still and I have the parts but I'm wondering before I pop the $80 for another TC solenoid if the one I have (2 months old) is maybe good and it's the actual TC that is bad (got a new one of those anyway)? The OD button does nothing, no light, no change in gears (did same thing with old TC solenoid too). Read that the PCM controls that function but I assume the TC\OD solenoid must have something to do with it too? BTW, I got all new clutches, steels, bushings, seals, TC, etc to put in. I've been reading the manual nightly as well as a few of the photo builds I've found out and about.
Question, do I need to rebuild the OD unit at the same time? If so I guess I need to invest in a good press before I tackle that...
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoopyIsMyHero View Post
Hope you got through the hurricane ok! I'm lucky, we don't get weather like that up my way, even when we get 'hurricanes' it's more like a bad thunderstorm. Of course, the blizzards make up for it... Way to go on the AC rebuild. I eventually have to tackle that too.

So I had to move the truck to the driveway so I had a good, clean place to work (was parked on the lawn) and when I tried to move it, no go. No forward. No reverse. Since I'd rather lie on my back than push it, for giggles I dropped the pan and replaced the governor solenoid since I had it and I knew it was bad. The fluid looked like crap and there was a TON of grey sludge in the pan (about 500 miles on this fluid) and the end of the old governor was covered with sludge too. Cleaned stuff up quick, tossed in the governor and YAY, it moves. Reverse actually works without shuddering or a delay. Still have the slippage in the upper RPMs with anything beyond part throttle with a mild shudder before it slips, very much like a slipping clutch in a manual. I had to run to the store to get an inch\pound torque wrench so I used the truck. What I noticed that I failed to notice before is the TC never locks up. Now it's throwing a TC solenoid code but could it actually be the TC that is bad? I'm still going to do the rebuild cuz it does creep in neutral still and I have the parts but I'm wondering before I pop the $80 for another TC solenoid if the one I have (2 months old) is maybe good and it's the actual TC that is bad (got a new one of those anyway)? The OD button does nothing, no light, no change in gears (did same thing with old TC solenoid too). Read that the PCM controls that function but I assume the TC\OD solenoid must have something to do with it too? BTW, I got all new clutches, steels, bushings, seals, TC, etc to put in. I've been reading the manual nightly as well as a few of the photo builds I've found out and about.
Question, do I need to rebuild the OD unit at the same time? If so I guess I need to invest in a good press before I tackle that...
Well answering your questions from last to first.

Yes you will need to rebuild the OD unit, and yes you will need a press. You can go to a harbor freight and invent 120 bucks in a 12 ton press and that will do the trick as that is what I use.

You can always go to a transmission shop, sometimes they are nice enough for 15 bucks to assemble it for you. You will need to use the intermediate shaft as the alignment tool to the keep the splines within the OD unit aligned, if they fall out of alignment then you have to rebuild the OD unit again.

It is very possible the clutch in the TC isn't anygood, but it's hydraulically applied so if it doesn't work the valve body is the first place to start. But replace the TC anyways, especially since it's probably filled with tons of gray powder, that gray powder is actually wear from the planets so you should invest in replacing the rear planet and front planet. For the rear planet I use a 6 pinion planet, it has an aluminum carrier only runs about 100 bucks. Works great! The front planet, a standard 4 or 5 pinion will suffice. But that is what that powder is, accelerated wear from the planets.

Becareful when you press the new bushings in, make sure the new bushing DOES NOT cover the lube holes.

As far as replacing the TC solenoid, I don't know. You could probably clean it and test it but if I were in your shoes I would replace it, but if you have replaced it already which I understand you have then it's probably a wiring problem maybe a short from the solenoid to the PCM... So if you have replaced it don't bother doing it again, it should still work you probably just have a broken or loose wire somewhere.

After you rebuild the transmission, it is common to find some powder in the bottom of the pan because the new planets wear to the ring gears so don't be alarmed.

Also make sure you check the direct clutch drum piston inner lip seal. If the seal doesn't pop out far enough replace it with the lip seal with the larger base.

Yea I got some serious rain and thunder, It's suppose to be like this all week. But once it stopped raining I ran my A/C manifold hoses through the engine bay into the cab and just ran an extension cord through the window and finished vacuuming the system and then put the refrigerant in. Front vent temp is 52F and rear vents are 60F the ambient cab temp is 64F.

I also replaced the insulation with R13, old insulation was R11. Well I have replaced the insulation on the passenger side a month ago and today I replaced the insulation on the driver side. But all is well, much better then before (no A/C) lol... Then I had to put all the interior back together, but I did it with the A/C on lol, only use about 1-2.5 gallons idling with the A/C on for about 2 hours give or take.

Anyways if you have any more questions please go ahead and shell em all out.
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