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Old 07-19-2012, 05:34 PM
konamtb konamtb is offline
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Default Noise problems... transmission maybe?

So this problem was unnoticeable one day, the next morning started hearing it and after driving errands that day it was a lot worse to the point that it started worrying me. It's a hard to explain but its a whinnying noise and slight vibration felt at my feet. If I am accelerating it cannot be heard or felt (however the exhaust could be drowning it out, cant say for sure). It also subsided substantially when the clutch depressed or coasting in neutral. Its worst when in gear and not accelerating, aka coasting. It also is worsened by turning. I checked my diff fluids, trans fluid (was black), power steering fluid, all were okay except the front diff that was about 1/2 a litre low. Filled and did not fix. I am leaning towards a transmission issue due to the subsiding when clutch is engaged. Hoping this is not the case.

Other thought is maybe a front end issue. Looked around the front end and found a seperated bushing on the steering bar that leads to the front wheel. (Not sure the official name). THought this may be it due to the noise when steering however doesnt explain the issue with the clutch.

Another issue is there is a leak on the oil seal by that is by the connection to the transmission and rear drive shaft. Leaks. and leaking from the connection to the rear diff and driveshaft.

Any help would be appreciated, would like to get fixed without having a shop diagose it. Willing to replace a few things before finding the fix to avoid this.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:34 PM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Whinney'ing noise is , to me , anyhow, indicative of the double cardan joint at the rear of the front driveshaft ballsocket assy being worn out. it's pretty much ungreaseable, and eventually self destructs. Vibration is a good indicator that it's getting very bad. A trip down under is called for. ANY slop in the rear joint assy demands replacement of the above mentioned stuff. Good news is, its pretty low tech to fix, a ballsocket kit and a couple of ujoints from the auto parts store, and another ujoint for the front joint on the front shaft, would run under $150 or so, if you have access to an oxy/acyetl torch, no big deal to rebuild the shaft. If you bring it somewhere, be prepared to pay $3-500, Tho not difficult, it is time consuming, and labor ain't cheap. (unless you're the for pay mechanic working for someone!!) Clop clop clopping in the front end is indicative of axle joints being shot. if they are, and these can be checked by crawling down under and wiggle-waggling the joints at the steering pivot point with a prybar of some sort. any slop in the cross and bearing pivot points means a change is in order, again, low tech fix, if you have a torch. if you're patient, and careful, you could theoretically change them without even removing the axles, I, however, would pull the axles. If they are worn, do not operate 4wd, at least in a hard turn, or you will find yourself replacing entire axle shafts, due to shearing the drive yokes off when the joint totally fails. now we arent talking $30, we're talking $300 ... Per side... In my experience, you probably are due a coupla balljoints, tierod ends, and a lukes link for your trackrod, (the drivers side of the track rod, this usually requires two people to check, one to turn the steers, the other to look. also, a 'thunk' when turning the wheels lock to lock is a sure indicator of that track rod joint being toast.) as well, most often indicated by other drivers thinking you're drunk driving, cuz of all of the slop in your steering! Lukes links also work on the end of the long tierod, they're rebuildable, and a whole lot more reasonably priced than new rods. they can be bought off the web. google it. semes all that stuff wears out at the same time.Hope I've helped! Good luck...
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