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Heating & Cooling 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #11  
Old 08-01-2012, 03:17 PM
ArtNJr ArtNJr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starquestbd22 View Post
I'm pretty familiar with the main HVAC components but I don't understand how the ignition could affect the fan motor alone and nothing else. Seems like to me it would either have power or it wouldn't.
Key switches are weird & are wired different ways -- for example, while the radio will work in my truck with the key in the Accessory position, the power windows & locks will not -- have to turn the key to the On position for them to work. I've had other vehicles where everything electrical would work with the key in the ACC position & a couple where just one thing wouldn't work whether the key was in the ACC or the ON position! And it turned out to be the key switch itself, not the item that wasn't coming on.
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2012, 03:29 PM
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Yeah, I did a little searching and I am leaning towards the ignition being the issue. If you google "Dodge Ram ignition switch" or "ignition switch fan motor" and read some of the forum posts you will find some similar stories. I even ran across a few help forums where mechanics had posted ways to troubleshoot the ignition.

I would try to exchange for another new ignition and try that just to rule out the chance that you bought a bad one to replace your bad one. If that doesn't fix it my next guess would be in the wiring to and from the switch, mostly likely in the steering column close to the switch.
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:23 PM
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Well, I had already taken out the motor and hooked it up to a battery and that ran fine on it's own. I've read where other people have experienced burnt wires and I haven't noticed a burning smell or scorched wires at all. I guess I could try another ignition module and see if maybe that isn't the issue. It's either that or.......a new truck????
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:04 PM
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There was a recall a few years back for the wires that control the fan being too small. The wire for the power comes from the ignition. I don't know the exact years that were affected but mine had the recall performed on it. They cut a green and a pink and black wire and a green wire out of the ignition harness and replaced them with larger gauge wires. It was something about the terminals heating up and expanding and not making good connection because the wires were too thin. Again, I don't know the years so I'd look up the recall
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:47 AM
ArtNJr ArtNJr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFMEDIC View Post
There was a recall a few years back for the wires that control the fan being too small. The wire for the power comes from the ignition. . . . It was something about the terminals heating up and expanding and not making good connection because the wires were too thin.
How many Amps a circuit can handle is determined in great part by the wire thickness (gauge, or gage) & here's a chart you can use to see what gauge should be used for a given Amp rating:

http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technica...an-Wire-Gauge/

When the Amp draw is too high the circuit will overheat & not only connections, but the wire itself, which will either cause a fuse or relay to burn out or a circuit-breaker to trip, or if there isn't anything in-line to shut the circuit down, could start a fire.

And remember this simple formula: Volts x Amps = Watts (doesn't take Resistance into account, but it's close enough for most calculations). Although the Voltage in your truck will (should) be higher than 12 @ certain points you can just figure 12 for everything, so if you know the Wattage of the device being powered, you can divide that by 12 to find the Amps being used to power the device. In other words, a 60-Watt headlight would draw ~ 5 Amps, which would mean you'd need 14 gauge (or heavier) wire (the lower the gauge number the thicker the wire). The light would still come on with 16 gauge wire, but the wire & connections would get hot immediately because the light would be drawing more Amps than the wire can safely handle.

Of course thicker wire costs more & especially if you build many 1000's of a certain vehicle a small savings per vehicle translates into a lot of money, so manufacturers will use the thinnest wire they think they can get away with. And that's true for everything -- say you replace the factory stereo & speakers with ones having a much higher Wattage rating but don't change the original skinny 18 or 20 gauge wires -- the Voltage remains the same, but the Amp draw goes up & now you've got the same problem as the headlight with too light a gauge wire running to it. Crank the volume up & not only will the sound from the speakers be distorted, the wiring to & from the stereo & to the speakers will overheat, as will all the connections.

In the case of a fan which has lighter gauge wire running to it than it should, sooner or later the fan motor will burn out because it'll always run too hot. The wire itself & the connections will overheat too, so you can have several problems, all of which can be fixed by simply replacing the wire with the proper gauge. And hooking the fan motor up to a battery doesn't tell you if the motor is drawing too many Amps for the wires in the truck going to it because there's no load on the motor -- which there will be when it's installed & blowing air. But if the motor has a Watts (or Amps) rating stamped on it, you can quickly figure which wire should be used.
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