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  #1  
Old 08-02-2012, 04:18 AM
JeepNgurl JeepNgurl is offline
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Default New gurl with brake question

Ok so i just bought a 1997 2500 (please bare with me i do turn a wrench but am not a mechanic, but at least i try) the guy I purchased from said he just replaced master cylinder but on test drive brake pedal went almost to the floor but still stopped. He said he must not have bled brakes completly after replacing MC as he didnt drive it much. I bought the truck anyways taking his word came home bled the brakes with a friends assistance the manual way. Started at pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. Seemed the rears had minimal air but fronts seemed good. I test drove and brake pedal was still to the floor.... a few stops it seemed to get harder not great but than most times it was soft pedal to the floor again. Took it home examined for obvious leaks and found nothing.
What should i do/ check next? Please break it down for me and if you have pictures to help explain than your awesome!
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:31 AM
ArtNJr ArtNJr is offline
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I'd have to operate on the assumption that the previous owner got the cheapest rebuilt master cylinder he could & that it's not working right. You can buy a M/C rebuild kit & rebuild it yourself if you want.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:31 AM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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If the front calipers are anything like prior models, he may have them on the wrong sides. This causes the bleeds to point down instead of up, making the calipers impossible to effectively bleed. I haven't looked at the newer ones, but check it out and see. If that's not an issue you're gonna have to look deeper, but what you describe is exactly what happens on older models when the fronts are on wrong and don't get bled properly. Just look. Bleeds pointing up or down. Up is right, down is wrong.

Last edited by Gen1dak; 08-02-2012 at 04:34 AM.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:54 AM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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OK so I looked at a couple pics and while the calipers are different, it looks like the same issue is possible with putting them on the wrong side.
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:07 AM
ArtNJr ArtNJr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
If the front calipers are anything like prior models, he may have them on the wrong sides. This causes the bleeds to point down instead of up, making the calipers impossible to effectively bleed.
I've never seen anyone reverse 'em before, but if the bleeder screws are pointing down, that'd sure tell ya they ain't right!

Also, the master cylinder itself may need to be bled & if you rebuild it you'll have to "bench-bleed" it. You can bleed it installed on the truck though, with the top off the M/C, by using a short piece of brake line hose on each outlet fitting curved around so the fluid coming out goes right back into the M/C. Only problem is you then have to bleed the brakes again 'cause when you put the proper brake lines back on the M/C a little air will get in the lines.
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:16 PM
JeepNgurl JeepNgurl is offline
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I just looked the bleeder nipples are pointing up on both in the front. ill look into rebleeding my MC today and rebleeding brakes. Cross my fingers!
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:36 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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If bleeding the master doesn't help the front hoses may be bad, the sliders on the calipers may be frozen, or believe it or not, you may have a bad hub bearing.

Cheapest: Run hoses from the out-ports on the master back into the reservoir keeping the tips below the fluid level. Pump the brake pedal until there's no air.

Secondly to save you a WHOLE bunch of work...have someone hold the brake pedal to the floor while you're reconnecting the brake lines. Tighten the lines and THEN release the pedal. The small amount of air in the top of the lines will get sucked back through the master saving you the task of bleeding the entire system again to push the air all the way through the lines and out the bleeder (nipple).

Still cheap: Jack up the front of the truck and move the wheels side to side to check the hub bearing. If it's loose then it'll wander when you apply the brakes. One time being okay, the next squishy (<- technical term). Anyway I got off track... but that may have solved the problem...Pull the wheels off and make sure the calipers are able to slide back and forth on the sliders.

The sliders are the tubes that the caliper bolts pass through to that the calipers can compress and release. You may have to compress the caliper to obtain some room to determine if they do indeed slide back and forth properly. If not take the calipers off and free up and lube the slider.

A little more expensive: The rubber brake lines. Over time they can collapse and restrict the calipers from working properly.

Most expensive of the lot: back to the hub and bearing. If it was bad it'll have to be replaced.

One last thing...the rear brakes. Try adjusting them and see if it helps because a wheel cylinder can cause a squishy pedal.

I just have a feeling though that you're gonna get some play in the wheel when you lift it and have a bad bearing.

Hope that helped.

(I chose not to address the nipple issue that was raised as it was adequately dealt with. However I can't help but to add that two upward pointing nipples are always a good thing and everything should slow to a stop when the correct amount of pressure is applied to halt forward motion)

Last edited by Warlock III; 08-02-2012 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:15 PM
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I would have to vote with warlock. Deffenetly on ajust and check drums. Also a sneeky place for a pin hole to back line is in a divider block that's on outside of left frame rail behind inner fender.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:30 PM
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bleeder nipples....man I love her analogy. That is my new word of the day...
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:35 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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On reversed calipers. Never seen it? I DONE it! That's how I learned about it. Anyway, it sounds like a deeper issue, but Warlock hit on something with the rear brakes. Before digging into the rest, make sure those rear brakes are fully expanded. If not, you'll definitely have a soggy pedal. They normally adjust each time you apply brake while backing up, but you need to have them adjusted pretty close. If they're slack it'll take forever for them to get there automatically.
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