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  #21  
Old 02-23-2014, 07:30 PM
DonT DonT is offline
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You asked for opinions and I gave you some based on many years of building, fixing and using trucks and jeeps. I am not interested in arguing about this, some if your information is good and some of it is not. Believe what you want, makes no difference to me.
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  #22  
Old 02-23-2014, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by glcarter View Post
Battlerattle, did your kit come with snap rings for the end of the stub shaft? Seen Mile Marker says in the instructions that you can run without them. Did you fit them? Thought I would pick a couple 1 1/2" snap rings up at the parts store, figure it should be less than $3.

Suppose Spyntech must figure that Mile Marker supplies everything for installing the hubs. And, Mile Marker probably figures for a replacement/upgrade part you should have them already.

Also I seen that Mile Marker included both a standard internal snap ring to retain the lockout body and a spiral snap ring, which did you use?

Yes, my hubs came with the stub shaft snap ring. I am sure you can run without them, but they are so easy why not put them on. I used the standard ring on the lockout body as I figured it would make it easier to remove if I have to do a trail repair. You can remove it with a screwdriver if necassary.

I installed the kit on my dads 3500 dually about six months ago and they only came with the spiral ring for the lockout body, not both. I have a feeling that they give you both because there were some D70 differences throughout the years and since they are hubs for a D70 they wanted to be prepared for any axle.
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Last edited by battlerattle; 02-23-2014 at 07:36 PM.
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  #23  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:27 PM
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Don T, did not know we were arguing, just because there is a difference of opinion on subjects, does not make an argument. Just seem do have a difference of opinion due to a difference of experiences.

As this build continues feel free to chime in.

PS When I start this build actually I will probably start a new thread in the Custom Chassis-Drive Line-Suspension-Wheels and Tires-Lifting-Dodge Ram 4x4 4x2 forum. Figure that will be a proper forum to do the build in as with lifted large wheel vehicles this will come more handy, especially since larger tire and wheels will rapidly take out unitized bearings.
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  #24  
Old 02-24-2014, 03:17 AM
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I think your gonna be very happy with the end result. Just wear and tear on the front end and driveshaft makes it worth it.
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  #25  
Old 02-24-2014, 05:50 AM
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Right now the biggest problem I see with the install is the hub caps. Since I am still running the factory chrome clad steel wheels they will be butt ugly without hub caps. The hubs are 4.1875" figure I need a 4 1/2" hole to allow the hub come on and off. That will only leave me a 2" ring of the cap. This will be right at the edge of the fake lugs that are molded in. considering cutting 3/8" off a 4" PVC coupler and epoxying it inside the hub cap to stiffen it up.
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  #26  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by glcarter View Post
Right now the biggest problem I see with the install is the hub caps. Since I am still running the factory chrome clad steel wheels they will be butt ugly without hub caps. The hubs are 4.1875" figure I need a 4 1/2" hole to allow the hub come on and off. That will only leave me a 2" ring of the cap. This will be right at the edge of the fake lugs that are molded in. considering cutting 3/8" off a 4" PVC coupler and epoxying it inside the hub cap to stiffen it up.

I did drill my hubcaps and they actually come out real nice. Just take your time.

Drill from the back with a 4 1/4" hole saw. There is a plastic moulding nub on the back side that when broken off will make a nice centering detent. Then get yourself a dremel with sanding disc to clean up the edges and size it up till it just fits. It looks factory.

Its not a great picture, but you can see how it comes out.
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Last edited by battlerattle; 02-24-2014 at 02:18 PM.
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  #27  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:16 PM
DonT DonT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glcarter View Post
Don T, did not know we were arguing,
Maybe I thought too much into what your were saying, I guess that can happen when reading text instead of talking.

I had a lot of trouble with the Milemarker hubs I had. The o-ring did not do a very good job of keep out water. I used a bead of silicone to seal them . The silicone worked well but was a mess getting it all out when I repacked.

The seals on the u-joint caps keep water out when they are new but later on they can still look ok but when submerged they can allow water to get in. I learned that one the hard way many years ago.

Someone reminded me of what I did like about the lockout hubs. I stripped the splines out of them a couple of times instead of breaking an axle. The hub is much easier to fix. I started to carry an extra set after the first break.

What are your long term plans for the truck?
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  #28  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonT View Post
Maybe I thought too much into what your were saying, I guess that can happen when reading text instead of talking.

I had a lot of trouble with the Milemarker hubs I had. The o-ring did not do a very good job of keep out water. I used a bead of silicone to seal them . The silicone worked well but was a mess getting it all out when I repacked.

The seals on the u-joint caps keep water out when they are new but later on they can still look ok but when submerged they can allow water to get in. I learned that one the hard way many years ago.

Someone reminded me of what I did like about the lockout hubs. I stripped the splines out of them a couple of times instead of breaking an axle. The hub is much easier to fix. I started to carry an extra set after the first break.

What are your long term plans for the truck?


Ding ding ding!! I keep an extra hub with allen wrench under my rear seat.
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  #29  
Old 02-24-2014, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by battlerattle View Post
I did drill my hubcaps and they actually come out real nice. Just take your time.

Drill from the back with a 4 1/4" hole saw. There is a plastic moulding nub on the back side that when broken off will make a nice centering detent. Then get yourself a dremel with sanding disc to clean up the edges and size it up till it just fits. It looks factory.
Was debating about how big of a hole to drill. Did not know if 4.25" was big enough to clear the hub to get the cap off. will definitely look better than the 4.5" I was going to do. Did not want to go too small as I would have no center registry left for a bigger holesaw.

Don't know about the Dremel tool though, figured I would do the final cleanup by hand. I know by experience that Me+Dremel tool+plastic usually=mess. Think I get too ambitious!
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  #30  
Old 02-24-2014, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
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What are your long term plans for the truck?
Thinking eventually about putting a limited slip in the front. Had a truck once with lockers on both ends. Never again in Iowa, that thing was down right scary on ice. Had to put chains on the front just to get around! Mud, rocks rivers, hills it was great. Unless you were on a slick side hill, had to try to take the most direct line up or down. If it started spinning it would slide sideways to the bottom. With 4 wheels spinning there is none to hold you in place!

Rest of the truck is going to stay mainly stock other than I do want to put a winch bumper on it some time. And maybe some Mickey Thompson Classic III wheels if the have them in my backspacing.

Have a while to do it, the truck I traded in on my 2011 was a 1996, figure on keeping this one at least as long.
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