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  #1  
Old 09-08-2012, 07:27 PM
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Default Coil spring help

Any one have a write up for removing the front coil springs on a reg cab going to cut my springs but if i have to compress them the reinstall to check then i might just buy springs thats alot of work thanks

the rear is cake im gtg with that
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:56 PM
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There's nothing to it....takes 20 minutes per side.
Do this:

Jack it up and put stands under the frame.
Unbolt sway bar end link and separate.
Unbolt tie rod and separate.
Remove the shock.
Remove the bolt holding the hard brake line to the frame for a little extra length.
Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and put some tension on it.
Unbolt upper ball joint and separate.
Lower floor jack and let the lower control arm, brake assembly and all swing down....watch the brake hose, it's gonna be tight but you'll have just enough length to do it.
When you let it down you'll wind up with all the tension off the jack, everything will just be hanging there. The spring will have a very slight amount of pressure on it, not nearly enough to be an issue. Rotate the bottom of the spring out of the pocket and it'll slide right out.
Cut the spring, replace the rubber isolator on top and start working in reverse.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:16 PM
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FRONT SPRING REMOVAL

A. With the front wheels removed begin by disconnecting the top side of the sway bar end link using a 16mm wrench and socket. Do this on both sides.
B. Securely support one front lower control arm with a floor jack in a position that allows access to the lower shock bolts as well as the lower spindle ball joint.
C. Loosen the two lower shock bolts holding the shock bar pin to the lower control arm with a 13mm socket.
D. Loosen the top nut securing the top of the shock to the frame using a 18mm socket.
E. Pull off the top washer and bushing
F. Lower the shock through the hole in the bottom control arm.
G. Remove the nut securing the sterring tie rod to the spindle. Use a 22mm wrench on the nut and a 10mm wrench to prevent the ball joint from rotating.
H. Remove the brake caliper by loosening the two caliper bolts using a 22mm socket or wrench.
I. Hang the caliper from the frame using a strap. Be sure that the brake hydraulic line and abs line have plenty of slack.
J. Remove the rotor from the spindle. It might be necessary to cut off the clip washer that secures the rotor to the wheel studs.
K. Unbolt the front wheel speed sensor from the spindle using a 5mm allen wrench. Pull the sensor and wire out from the brake backing plate.
L. Loosen the 22mm nut that secures the upper ball joint to the spindle. Leave the nut still threaded onto the end of the ball joint to prevent the spindle from seperating from the upper control arm.
M. Carefully break the ball joint loose from the spindle using a pickle fork (ball joint puller) or by tapping a hammer against the spindle.
WARNING: The lower control arm is under spring pressure. Make sure the lower control arm is securely supported by the floor jack so that when the upper ball joint is removed from the spindle, the lower suspension does not spring apart.
Remove the 22mm upper ball joint nut and disconnect the upper control arm from the spindle.
N. Slowly lower the jack and relieve the spring tension.
O. Use a pry bar and pry the lower control arm further down to allow the stock front suspension spring to be removed.
P. When complete post pics on ramforumz to brag and talk about so we can show how great RAM trucks look lowered
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:19 PM
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if you are cutting them they'll go back in a lot easier then when you take them out.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:19 PM
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You do not have to disassemble the brakes, rotors, speed sensor, etc.
It will all swing out of the way completely assembled.
If you do all that you're doing a ton of unnecessary work.

Every a-arm vehicle I've ever lowered I've done the way I posted including my own Ram last weekend.
Nice inclusion of the wrench sizes though...that'll be very helpful for him.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:27 PM
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Take the directions for what they are worth. Following those steps takes me about 30 minutes to do a coil swap, either way will work just fine
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:29 PM
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Absolutely they will. Your post was very thorough and well written...it just includes some unnecessary steps for the job.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:41 PM
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ahh lol i just took a quick peek and thought the shock and spring were 1 peice like a strut but after reading this went back out and looked makes way more sense lol thanks guys
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:45 PM
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so i have a ground force 2'' drop already wanted to lower it another 2'' all the way around any suggestions on coil cut on the stock and the g/f spring and also suggestion on cutting them /sawzal/ torch/ cutting wheel


and thank you all in advance will prob get to it this week it needs to go low
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:09 AM
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How much drop you get by cutting coils will vary depending on the spring rate. The softer it is the more drop you'll get. The consensus seems to be 1" per 1/2 coil on the front and 1" per full coil on the rear which is exactly what I got when I trimmed mine over the advertised 2/4 drop. I never installed them before cutting though so I can't say it was a true 1" on each end, I can only compare to their advertised numbers.

Cut them with a cut-off wheel or a chop saw if you can find one....the chop saw is much faster.
A torch will change the temper of the spring and make the area that gets cut brittle and possibly lead to a break...and those springs will laugh at a Sawzall...they're pretty tough.
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