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Heating & Cooling 1st Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 09-12-2012, 04:28 PM
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My 83 has a 5.2 with 148k on it I replaced the radiator cap and thermostat a few months ago. Twice in the last week my truck overheated. I noticed lately also that coolant gets pushed into the overflow but doesn't get sucked back into the radiator. I've been forced to put coolant directly into the radiator instead of in the overflow. Is my thermostat shot already?! Or is this an indication my water pumps getting ready to go? Does this make sense to anybody out there? I don't want to keep driving it and risk popping the head gasket! Input is appreciated! Thanks
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:32 PM
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If your water pump is going bad, there is a tell tale sign, on the bottom of the water pump, there is a WEEP hole, when the bearing starts to go bad, it breaks a seal. When the seal breaks, it starts to drip water out of the weep hole. The hole is not very large, but you can feel it with your finger

you can see the hole in the 2nd image on this website
http://www.aa1car.com/library/water_pump.htm

when was the last time that the radiator was flushed out ? or even better, if it has a lot of rust & gunk when you drain it, it may be time to pull the radiator & get the core Rodded Out, a rod is run through every passage in the radiator, makes it like new again

sometimes when the radiator hoses are getting old, some radiator hoses have springs in them, where they are curved, they keep the hose from collapsing, eventually they rust & break apart inside the hose. These rusted parts can enter the radiator & the water pump
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:33 PM
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From what you're saying it's almost certainly not the tstat or water pump. I'd bet it's air in the cooling system. Also, are you using a 50/50 mix of coolant/water? If you have too much coolant it will not dissipate heat well and will cause it to run too hot.

What you are calling the overflow tank is likely actually a expansion tank. Does the hose from the radiator cap to the tank lead all the way to the bottom of the tank(so it is submerged at all times)?
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:04 PM
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it IS an expansion tank!

You're the opposite of texting and driving!
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:02 PM
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it IS an expansion tank!

You're the opposite of texting and driving!
lol thanks bud Apparently not smart enough though(bad day lol)
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:35 PM
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@GT no weeping from water pump ALL hoses replaced (they were bulging real bad!) when the tstat and cap were replaced, back in March to be exact
And guys thank you OH SO MUCH its an EXPANSION TANK!
Anyway, I do run a 50/50 coolant mix. Prestone, for some reason, is the brand I always end up with. The hose that runs from the cap to and into the EXPANSION TANK is indeed submerged. The hose itself doesn't look too rough, the tank is kinda rough looking, but the coolant doesn't have debris in. it.I've checked up on that in the recent past also. I'm wondering if I change out the hose and tank if that will help...
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:43 PM
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And guys thank you OH SO MUCH its an EXPANSION TANK!
I'm not sure if this was a smart a$$ comment at me to be mean or if it was just a poke, but there is a reason I asked. I am not sure which it was on that older truck. Newer cars use expansion tanks almost always, while many older cars used overflow tanks. There is a BIG difference and a BIG difference in the total cooling system operation, and I asked to help clarify(because many people usually don't know the difference and mix up the names) so that I can help diagnose it.

But if it was a mean remark, by all means diagnose it yourself
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:08 AM
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i took my radiators out, both on my 1956 chevy 1/2 ton & my 1999 chevy 1/2 ton
i took them to a radiator shop & told them to do whatever is necessary
On both radiators, they took off the upper & lower tanks, some radiators have the tanks on the sides.
They dropped the radiators into a chemical tank
then ran a rod through all the cores passages , then put it back into the chemical tank.
Then they blew air through those passages. Everything was cleaned out, they reassembled the radiator, did a pressure test, painted the whole radiator & i reinstalled it into the vehicles.
Neither one had ran cooler, since i had owned them
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:14 AM
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@snurusnak my comment was NOT intended to be negative in any way to you guys! I apologize if that's how I came off! Terminology is of great importance, i do agree! I plainly assumed that my truck was elder, and the term was "overflow" i thought you and warlock were giving me the business about accuracy! Sorry, guess my humor needs flushed, along with my radiator, which is going down tomorrow. I thank you gentlemen, for your insight.
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:09 AM
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@snurusnak my comment was NOT intended to be negative in any way to you guys! I apologize if that's how I came off! Terminology is of great importance, i do agree! I plainly assumed that my truck was elder, and the term was "overflow" i thought you and warlock were giving me the business about accuracy! Sorry, guess my humor needs flushed, along with my radiator, which is going down tomorrow. I thank you gentlemen, for your insight.
Ok no worries, it's hard to tell someones attitude through text lol.

I'd start by making sure all the air is out of the system. Park level or with the front slightly higher than the rear. Remove radiator cap, make sure radiator is full, start engine, turn heater on. Let it get to operating temperature(may take a while). Keep radiator full at all times. As it is warming up bump/squeeze the radiator hoses to "burp" air out. Be careful of the fan and it will eventually get very hot. After you think all the air is out, top off the radiator completely and replace the cap. Fill the expansion tank to the appropriate level. Shut the engine off and let it cool completely. Remove the radiator cap and top if off completely. Check expansion tank level. You may have to top it off a couple times over the first few heat cycles.

It wouldn't hurt to replace the hose leading to the expansion tank. If there's a crack/pinhole/etc in it you will never get this problem fixed as it will always suck in air.
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