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Old 09-28-2012, 02:23 AM
Ispiralout Ispiralout is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Newcomer
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Texas
Age: 27
Posts: 1
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2000
Color: Flame Red
Engine: 1989-1992 360ci (5.9L) LA V8 190hp
Rep Power: 0
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Default 2001 V8 5.9l engine rebuild input and help.

Hello, new member here.
Long time dodge fan.

Let's get right to it.

I have put 158,xxx miles on my 2000.5 (yes specifically) 4x4 Dodge Ram 1500.
It is the ext. cab 6.5ft bed. Laramie xlt. It has had minor maintenance issues after 120,000 miles. Until that mileage everything went through routine maintenance.

Mods are simple:
2.5" aero exhaust
KNN cold air intake
20" rims on road tires.
Ext. suspension tow package.
Iridium spark plugs.

Replacements include:
Alternator once
Fan clutch once
Water pump once
Radiator patch
Rear LSD differential swap for 5.9 base model 2 wheel drive differential.
LSD clutch plates busted. I've pulled a lot of red necks in big jacked up trucks and suv's out of mud, over boulders, sand, snow, etc. towed a lot of vehicles. Lots of 4x4 usage. Work trailers, just a daily driver BAD ASS truck. One day just pop... Grind..... Shit... Swap. @ 120,000 miles

Right now:
I am taking the engine apart. And rebuilding. (first time on a v-8)
I had my driver side front head gasket spring a leak and soon after water pump seal to block sprung a leak right next to it on the top left face in a small port hole. No oil and coolant mixture.
And everything else has looked pretty amazing.
Timing chain has less than 1/4 of the slack allowed before replacement is even recommended.

I'm going to need to check header blocks for any warping and springs for tension and squareness but everything else checks out.

The cylinder walls on the engine block still have factory cross hatching?
Is this even possible? No visible wear at all.
Does anyone with more experience think I should still take it to a machine shop? And what is the best way to really tell if I should do anything with the cam-shaft, pistons, and cylinders?

Really, I just want to make sure that when I put her back together that she is going to run cleaner, meaner, and regain horsepower with no internal issues. So any advice or experience is going to be greatly blessed and appreciated. I really enjoy working on trucks but have never delved much into the engine mechanics.

One other thing.
When I was taking apart the engine. There was a noticeable/considerable amount of carbon buildup. Is this normal or is there a routine of checks I should look into more thoroughly. I went from full synth, to reg engine oil then back to full synthetic one time. I've been told that this could have something to do with it.

Anyway thank you for taking the time to read this.
Have a great day.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:25 AM
Krooser Krooser is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 48
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 1997 Ram 1500 4X2
Trim Level: SLT
Color: Black
Engine: 1995-1997 318ci (5.2L) Natural Gas V8 200hp 430lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Krooser is on a distinguished road

Check the taper on the cylinder walls... if it's within specs just ball hone it and install new rings. It's not unusual to see the original cross hatch in high mileage engines... MOPAR may use a low tension ring from the factory.... don't really know. Mic the crank, too.

Where are you getting carbon in the engine? You shouldn't be... almost impossible in the oiling system. Do you mean sludge or varnish? Switching to synthetics and back to dino oil should't give you any deposits. Using a cheap oil or lots of city driving with extended changes would...
'97 Ram 1500 SWB 4X2, '56 F100 Blown 354 Hemi powered '52 Pontiac Hard Top, '34 Chevy 3 window coupe
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