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  #1  
Old 12-31-2012, 02:29 PM
trigger22 trigger22 is offline
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Default Transmission Help

Hey guys, I am new here and like what I see so far. I've thumbed through a lot of useful stuff in the past after a link popped up from google and finally bit the bullet and decided to join.

I am driving a 2001 Ram 1500 with a 5.2L and rear wheel drive. I am at 146,000 miles on the truck and just had to have my transmission rebuilt. The inside of it was toast after my overdrive came apart. The first time driving the truck after the rebuild I experienced some issues about 40 miles in.

My overdrive kicked itself off and I could not turn it back on. It stayed off for about 10 miles and came back on and went back off. When it was on, I could turn it off and on as usual. By the time I reached about 65 miles my transmission temp light came on. I immediately pulled off the side of the road and shut down, popped the hood and pulled the transmission fluid dipstick out and the fluid was very hot. I allowed it to cool for about 15 minutes and got back to driving. I drove the remaining 5 miles to my destination and by the time I pulled in the parking lot the trans temp light came back on. The truck sat there (at an airport) for a week and didn't move. I got back from my flight and drove home. The same thing happened with my overdrive kicking off about 40 miles into my drive, but I didn't experience the overheat.

I took the truck into the guy that rebuilt my transmission and told him what was going on. The first thing he did was check the fluid (I could have told him that was good) and then said it had fluid so it shouldn't have overheated. He then hooked up the diagnostic tool and drove the truck with it hooked up and said the transmission was going into lockout mode on and off randomly. My first question is what is lockout mode? He then told me that it was a computer problem with my truck and not something that he did in the rebuild. That doesn't make sense to me. The truck wasn't doing this prior to the rebuild so it shouldn't be doing it now. He said I needed to go to the dodge dealer and have the computer flashed? Why would I need to do this? What does the lockout mode have to do with my overdrive kicking off? The overdrive solenoid was replaced in the rebuild, so it sounds to me as if it is defective from the manufacturer. I called dodge and made an appointment for later this week to have a diagnostic ran on their computer but that is $89 and if anything needs to be done will end up costing more. Do you think the transmission shop is feeding me a line of bull, or could the transmission going into "lockout" have caused my problems originally? I appreciate the help and am sorry this is so long. I hope I have made it easy enough to understand. The section in red is where my problems are to help break it up from the rest of the post. Thanks guys
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger22 View Post
Hey guys, I am new here and like what I see so far. I've thumbed through a lot of useful stuff in the past after a link popped up from google and finally bit the bullet and decided to join.

I am driving a 2001 Ram 1500 with a 5.2L and rear wheel drive. I am at 146,000 miles on the truck and just had to have my transmission rebuilt. The inside of it was toast after my overdrive came apart. The first time driving the truck after the rebuild I experienced some issues about 40 miles in.

My overdrive kicked itself off and I could not turn it back on. It stayed off for about 10 miles and came back on and went back off. When it was on, I could turn it off and on as usual. By the time I reached about 65 miles my transmission temp light came on. I immediately pulled off the side of the road and shut down, popped the hood and pulled the transmission fluid dipstick out and the fluid was very hot. I allowed it to cool for about 15 minutes and got back to driving. I drove the remaining 5 miles to my destination and by the time I pulled in the parking lot the trans temp light came back on. The truck sat there (at an airport) for a week and didn't move. I got back from my flight and drove home. The same thing happened with my overdrive kicking off about 40 miles into my drive, but I didn't experience the overheat.

I took the truck into the guy that rebuilt my transmission and told him what was going on. The first thing he did was check the fluid (I could have told him that was good) and then said it had fluid so it shouldn't have overheated. He then hooked up the diagnostic tool and drove the truck with it hooked up and said the transmission was going into lockout mode on and off randomly. My first question is what is lockout mode? He then told me that it was a computer problem with my truck and not something that he did in the rebuild. That doesn't make sense to me. The truck wasn't doing this prior to the rebuild so it shouldn't be doing it now. He said I needed to go to the dodge dealer and have the computer flashed? Why would I need to do this? What does the lockout mode have to do with my overdrive kicking off? The overdrive solenoid was replaced in the rebuild, so it sounds to me as if it is defective from the manufacturer. I called dodge and made an appointment for later this week to have a diagnostic ran on their computer but that is $89 and if anything needs to be done will end up costing more. Do you think the transmission shop is feeding me a line of bull, or could the transmission going into "lockout" have caused my problems originally? I appreciate the help and am sorry this is so long. I hope I have made it easy enough to understand. The section in red is where my problems are to help break it up from the rest of the post. Thanks guys
Sounds like the guy who rebuilt it isn't honoring up... Well the issue you are having sounds like it could be a loose wire or cut wire which if you aren't careful removing and installing the transmission can happen. That could explain the on off on off. The transmission fluid should be hot, it is expected to get to around 185F because the fluid actually expands when heated, another reason why you shouldn't overfill a transmission because of fluid expansion. Now what I would do is drive that truck let it get nice and hot then go and take a temperature sample of the fluid or what you can do is hookup a snap on mt-2500 or newer and check the temperature of the fluid using this tool, it will just take the signal from the temp sensor in the transmission, very helpful let me tell you!

I don't want to just jump on the rebuild and say it isn't rebuilt properly, although it is possible but unlikely. So first just find out if it is really overheating or if it is an electronic problem. This is what we need to do is actually figure out is it electronic or mechanical! Once you find that out come and tell me and I can tell you what to do to narrow down to the source of the problem.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:04 PM
trigger22 trigger22 is offline
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Thanks for your response and advice, I will check out the temperature. I do know, it was without a shadow of a doubt overheated whenever it happened. There was smoke/steam coming out of the dipstick hole (I've never seen this) and the fluid was way hotter than it usually is. I just got in from driving it all over and around town with stop and go driving for about an hour and didn't have any problems at all so it seems to me it is an overdrive issue. I don't know a whole lot about transmissions, but have a world of experience in troubleshooting things. Thanks again and I will see about tracking down that tool.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:20 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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The computer locks out the overdrive when it gets too hot. Sounds like it is working properly. For all you know, the same problem that grenaded the first OD is still present. Running hot could be due to a blocked fluid return line. There's a ball-type check valve to prevent drainback after shutdown. They're notorious for corroding shut...partially or completely, maybe blocked radiator passages. The result? OD meltdown. If it checks out I'd look at an improper rebuild.

Last edited by Gen1dak; 12-31-2012 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger22 View Post
Thanks for your response and advice, I will check out the temperature. I do know, it was without a shadow of a doubt overheated whenever it happened. There was smoke/steam coming out of the dipstick hole (I've never seen this) and the fluid was way hotter than it usually is. I just got in from driving it all over and around town with stop and go driving for about an hour and didn't have any problems at all so it seems to me it is an overdrive issue. I don't know a whole lot about transmissions, but have a world of experience in troubleshooting things. Thanks again and I will see about tracking down that tool.
Don't bother checking the temperature, if there is smoke/steam coming from the dip stick tube then it certainly is overheating.

I would bring it back to the rebuilder, like I said he isn't honoring his warrant or promise. In my EXPERIENCE in building only these torque flites it can be a combination of two problems, one is improper cooling due to either a clogged transmission fluid cooler, clogged fluid line, or incorrect intermediate shaft spacer ring. If the original overdrive unit failed and was completely rebuilt possibly with a new OD case or a replaced intermediate shaft then it is crucial to check that the cross hole in the intermediate shaft is aligning with the fluid feed hole.

To completely rule out the entire cooling system except for the holes you will want to remove the one transmission line, the return line. This line is located on the drive side of the radiator, at the bottom of the radiator.

It is probably a cooling problem more than anything else. Most likely those fluid holes aren't aligned properly.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:51 PM
trigger22 trigger22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
The computer locks out the overdrive when it gets too hot. Sounds like it is working properly. For all you know, the same problem that grenaded the first OD is still present. Running hot could be due to a blocked fluid return line. There's a ball-type check valve to prevent drainback after shutdown. They're notorious for corroding shut...partially or completely, maybe blocked radiator passages. The result? OD meltdown. If it checks out I'd look at an improper rebuild.
This is my biggest concern. I don't want to push blame off immediately on the rebuild, it just seems fishy to me that I didn't have issues before but do now. Something had to have caused it to go bad, well besides the rough life of stop and go driving and hauling boats all of its life. How do I go about checking that return line and the valve?
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
Don't bother checking the temperature, if there is smoke/steam coming from the dip stick tube then it certainly is overheating.

I would bring it back to the rebuilder, like I said he isn't honoring his warrant or promise. In my EXPERIENCE in building only these torque flites it can be a combination of two problems, one is improper cooling due to either a clogged transmission fluid cooler, clogged fluid line, or incorrect intermediate shaft spacer ring. If the original overdrive unit failed and was completely rebuilt possibly with a new OD case or a replaced intermediate shaft then it is crucial to check that the cross hole in the intermediate shaft is aligning with the fluid feed hole.

To completely rule out the entire cooling system except for the holes you will want to remove the one transmission line, the return line. This line is located on the drive side of the radiator, at the bottom of the radiator.

It is probably a cooling problem more than anything else. Most likely those fluid holes aren't aligned properly.
Thank you again for your response. What do I need to look for with that line? Should I just be making sure fluid is flowing through there?
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:21 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Thank you again for your response. What do I need to look for with that line? Should I just be making sure fluid is flowing through there?
No problem, I work on these TF's all the time matter fact it's my specialty when it comes to Dodge vehicles. What you want to do is disconnect that line from the fitting on the transmission, the line will be the one rearest to the vehicle. Anyways take that off and stick the end into a empty clean bottle and then turn the truck on and shift it into neutral, you want to count to ten and then put the transmission in park and shut the vehicle off. The idea is to make sure that the pump can push 1 quart in 10 seconds or less, anything else and there is either an issue with the pump or a clog someplace within the transmissions cooling system.

Like Gen1dak said, there have been numerous issues with an anti-drain back valve, this valve is located on the pressure line which is on the passenger side of the vehicle. This anti-drain back valve prevents fluid from draining out of the torque converter into the cooling system when the vehicle is parked overnight. It is strongly urged that you remove this valve, if it was to fail it would cause the transmission to overheat. If you remove this valve you will have to put the transmission into neutral or drive and let it idle for about 30 seconds before you can start driving off, this will fill up the converter. OR do what I do and install a inline external transmission cooler THAT is mounted higher (relative to the torque converter) than the torque converter (relative to the ground). And with that you will keep the fluid cool and stop drain back, win win.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:12 AM
trigger22 trigger22 is offline
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I really appreciate the detailed response. I will look at both of these things and report back what I find. You've been a lot of help. Happy New Year to you all.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:33 AM
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I really appreciate the detailed response. I will look at both of these things and report back what I find. You've been a lot of help. Happy New Year to you all.
I try my best to be as detailed and helpful as I can. Happy New Year to you and your family, may this year be much better than last.
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