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  #1  
Old 11-18-2012, 01:48 PM
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Default New PCodes help please.

Last week I picked up an AutoLink OBDII code reader...easy to use and didn't kill my wallet.

Yesterday I started my truck and drove locally for 10 minutes and it was not performing well in first gear at all..like no power..and the check engine light fired up.

When I got home I used the AutoLink to get a read on what codes were firing..

Here's what I have...

P0700 - Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0138 - Bad O2 Sensor ( I already have 4 new ones ready to go in)

P0731 - Incorrect 1st Gear Ratio

an then this one which I have yet to see yet..

P0876- UD PRESSURE SWITCH RATIONALITY

Here are some possible causes I found on line as well for P0876

RELATED RELAY DTC'S PRESENT
LOW FLUID LEVEL - chedcked..it's fine and smells sweet
NO. 2 CHECK BALL CUT OR DAMAGED
LOW LINE PRESSURE
CRACKED OR MISINSTALLED SUMP FILTER OR SEAL
STICKING MAIN REGULATOR VALVE IN PUMP VALVE BODY
(T29) UD PRESSURE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT OPEN
(T29) UD PRESSURE SWITCH CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
(T29) UD PRESSURE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUITS
TRANSMISSION SOLENOID/TRS ASSEMBLY
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

There are obviosly some Transmission issues here that will need attention soon. Is there any advice on these combo of trans codes in terms of what this is?

Dave
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  #2  
Old 11-18-2012, 02:02 PM
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The codes listed lead me to believe that you have a bad pressure switch or a bad regulating ball valve inside the valve body which isn't sealing properly.

The P0700 code is a general message that the TCM is reporting a fault. The rationality issue is caused by the TCM not seeing the correct parameters across the system. The root issue here is internal pressure. It can be the switch not operating properly or it could be a loss of pressure due to a malfunctioning check valve.
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ShiftJockey View Post
The codes listed lead me to believe that you have a bad pressure switch or a bad regulating ball valve inside the valve body which isn't sealing properly.

The P0700 code is a general message that the TCM is reporting a fault. The rationality issue is caused by the TCM not seeing the correct parameters across the system. The root issue here is internal pressure. It can be the switch not operating properly or it could be a loss of pressure due to a malfunctioning check valve.
This sounds a bit over my head in terms of fixing myself so I am preparing for a visit to my local dealer on this one. Any advance when I schedule this appointment as I am sure they will want to rip anything and everything out ?
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:05 AM
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P0731 means there was internal slippage (within the trans) in 1st gear. P0876 means the UD pressure switch was in the wrong state (either open when it should be closed, or closed when it should be open).

P0876 is often caused by a wiring problem (open wire, or bad connection), but since you also have a P0731, I doubt it's wiring. The UD clutch is supposed to be applied in 1st gear. I'm betting that the P0876 (coupled with the P0731) means you lost your UD clutch pressure. That's usually caused by either a blown UD piston seal, or a bad UD solenoid (in the solenoid module, inside the trans).

The dealer should read the DTC Event Data (a block of data that gets stored whenever a trans fault is set, which shows what was happening at that time). It will show data from the most recent fault (either P0876 or P0731). Have them check the Line Pressure reading in the data to see if it matched the Desired Line Pressure (it should). If that's OK, then they probably need to drop the pan and valve body, and air check the UD clutch passage. If they find a big leak, then it's likely the blown piston seal (and you have to pull the trans and tear it partway down to replace the piston, and likely the UD clutch pack as well). If it air checks OK, then I'd probably replace the solenoid module (on top of the valve body) and see if that takes care of it.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TransEngineer View Post
P0731 means there was internal slippage (within the trans) in 1st gear. P0876 means the UD pressure switch was in the wrong state (either open when it should be closed, or closed when it should be open).

P0876 is often caused by a wiring problem (open wire, or bad connection), but since you also have a P0731, I doubt it's wiring. The UD clutch is supposed to be applied in 1st gear. I'm betting that the P0876 (coupled with the P0731) means you lost your UD clutch pressure. That's usually caused by either a blown UD piston seal, or a bad UD solenoid (in the solenoid module, inside the trans).

The dealer should read the DTC Event Data (a block of data that gets stored whenever a trans fault is set, which shows what was happening at that time). It will show data from the most recent fault (either P0876 or P0731). Have them check the Line Pressure reading in the data to see if it matched the Desired Line Pressure (it should). If that's OK, then they probably need to drop the pan and valve body, and air check the UD clutch passage. If they find a big leak, then it's likely the blown piston seal (and you have to pull the trans and tear it partway down to replace the piston, and likely the UD clutch pack as well). If it air checks OK, then I'd probably replace the solenoid module (on top of the valve body) and see if that takes care of it.

Thx TE & ShiftJockey! Very helpful. One specific worth mentioning here is that the morning that the truck performed poorly in 1st gear I felt like I was driving a stick...meaning....as I stepped on the accelerator my rpm's went up but it felt like I had the clutch all the way down and then was slowly letting it grab......and then after about 2500rpm things settled in as though i shifted into 2nd. First time driving an automatic that I ever felt like it was manual...wierd. Does this speak to the UD clutch pack ?

Note: This is no longer happening..very isolate event to just that morning...but I suspect that this can...and will..happen again if I ignore this.

Dave
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:19 AM
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The P0876 fault would have put you in full limp-in (4th gear all the time), which makes the engine rev way up (and the truck feel like a dog) when taking off from a stop. So that may explain what you felt. Does the fluid smell burned at all? If not, consider yourself lucky.

It's possible that a piece of debris went through the UD solenoid, and momentarily blocked the solenoid ball from closing off the clutch vent (giving you the faults). Maybe that piece of debris then got flushed out and now all is fine. So if it's running good now, with no further issues, then consider yourself lucky again (and blessed!). If I were you, I'd just keep on driving it until the problem re-surfaces (and hope it doesn't!).

If you want to check the health of your UD clutch, you can run a torque converter stall test. Put the trans in Drive (at a stop), mash the brake, and then open the throttle wide open for about 3 seconds or so. See what engine speed you get (I'm guessing maybe 2200 RPM). If your engine revs up significantly higher (like 3000+ RPM) your UD clutch is probably hurt. Do NOT do this for more than a few seconds (or you will cook your converter!).

Now take your foot off the brake and drive. Does it launch and shift normally through all the gears? If so, then UD seems to be OK. If not (launches in 4th gear, or launches in 1st but then shifts to 4th and stays there), the UD clutch was slipping during the stall test. In this case, you can probably keep driving it (gently) for a while, but a trans repair is in your future....
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:27 PM
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This week I have been having start up problems. Taking my 2 and 3 tries to get the truck started. I will try to describe..

1.) Turn key truck attempts to start but sputters out quickly
2.) Turn key 2nd time..sometimes she starts..sometimes same as above with a little more rpms before dying
3.) Turn key 3rd time...starts 90% of the time

How might this experience be related to the potential trans & line pressure issues i may have?
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Rowe View Post
This week I have been having start up problems. Taking my 2 and 3 tries to get the truck started. I will try to describe..

1.) Turn key truck attempts to start but sputters out quickly
2.) Turn key 2nd time..sometimes she starts..sometimes same as above with a little more rpms before dying
3.) Turn key 3rd time...starts 90% of the time

How might this experience be related to the potential trans & line pressure issues i may have?
I don't think your starting problems are related to any trans issue. When starting, the trans is in Park (or Neutral), so the UD solenoid isn't even fed with pressure, no clutches are applied, etc.

If the trans were partially (or completely) engaged in Park/Neutral (enough to cause starting issues), it would also drive forward (or try to) in Neutral.
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:06 PM
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hi i am new to the forum and i am having trans issues i just put a trans in my 04 ram 5.7 2wd and now when goes into od it kicks back out i have replaced all filters and new fluid but its giving me a po876 code its says trans fluid pressure sensor/switch " D " circuit range/ performance and it also throws po700 and po716 so i replaced the speed sensor which is the po716 it shifted fine for a day like it should now its back to throwing out of od as if its in safe mode but what sensor is the po876 referring to and what could be the issue with the po700 code thanks for the help
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Old 09-09-2013, 04:10 PM
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P0876 is a UD Pressure Switch Rationality fault. This means your UD pressure switch (which indicates the presence of pressure in the UD clutch passage) was in the wrong state (either open when it should have been closed, or closed when it should have been open).

In your case, it must be the UD switch is closed when it should be open. The UD clutch is "on" in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears, and turns off when you shift to 4th (OD). Since you apparently DON'T get the fault when driving in the lower gears, the switch must be closed in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd (which it should be).

A "closed" pressure switch can be caused by a wiring problem (bad connection or broken wire), but in your case I doubt this, because then your UD pressure switch would look "closed" all the time (and it would blow the fault and put you in limp-in when you were in Park or Reverse). Since apparently all is OK in P, R, and N, I'll assume the UD switch is open in those gears.

So, your problem is most likely internal debris within the solenoid module (leaking pressure through the UD solenoid all the time), or a cut or damaged #2 check ball. So I would drop your valve body, split it open, check the check balls, and if they're OK, then replace the solenoid module.

By the way, the reason a "stuck open" UD solenoid won't blow the fault in Park, Reverse, or Neutral is that the UD solenoid only has pressure fed to it when you're in Drive. So the switch stays open (which it should be) in P, R, and N, then closes as soon as you shift into D (which it should) and stays closed in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. But when you shift to 4th and the PCM turns the UD solenoid hydraulically "off", if pressure is still leaking through (either through the solenoid, or through a bad #2 check ball) you will blow an immediate P0876 fault and go into limp-in (3rd gear only).
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