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  #1  
Old 11-25-2012, 12:52 AM
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Default Rancho QuickLift Install.

I learned quite a bit while doing this "little" project.....

Tools Needed
- Basic mechanic tools
- Cold chisel
- BFH
- Ball joint separator
- Advance Auto Parts Loan-a-tool #648617
- Grinder
- Sawsall
- Beer

Optional (helpful) Tools
- Air Impact

Start by disassembling the front suspension to gain access to the strut.
- Remove the wheel
- Remove the 3 upper strut mount nuts and the lower mount nut (don't worry about putting a wrench on the bolt to prevent it from turning.....I highly doubt it will!)
- Remove the brake caliper (both pieces) Make sure to tie it up somewhere!
- Remove the brake rotor
- Disconnect the wheel speed sensor at the connection and unattach it from the upper control arm
- Separate the sway bar link from the lower control arm
- Separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle

You are now ready to attack the infamous lower strut mount bolt.....I fought with mine for about 4 hours with everything my buddy and I could think of and it just sat there and laughed at us! You can try this method of beating, heating and praying it comes out....but here is what I did in the end.....

Parts Run
- Moog or Raybestos part # K200183 about $32 anywhere (This is the replacement bushing for the lower control arm at the strut fork)
- (2) 4" 5/8" bolts (I used grade 8)
- (2) 5/8" nuts (again grade 8)
- (2) 5/8" lock washers (yep, grade 8)

Removal of Old Strut
- Take your grinder with a cutting wheel and cut the forward fork off the old strut
- Using your sawsall, cut the rear fork off the strut......try to cut this one off so that you can spin the bushing bolt without the remaining fork coming in contact with the lower control arm
- Remove the strut

Removal of the Lower Control Arm Bushing at the Strut Fork
- Use a ratchet and start wrenching on the bushing bolt....shortly, the bushing rubber will start to break loose from the outer sleeve. Keep turning until the bolt and rubber spin fairly freely.
- Take a punch and BFH and knock that inner bushing out of the sleeve
- With the rubber and bolt removed, you have to get that sleeve out of the control arm....take a chisel and your BFH, on the rear of the sleeve sticking out past the control arm, and bend it over a little bit. I just did this in one spot.
- Keep your chisel and BFH, from behind the wheel assembly (laying on the ground (creeper), on your back) start pounding on that sleeve (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CHISEL ON THE CONTROL ARM!!!!!!)
- At this point I used the sawzall to cut a weak spot through the sleeve (BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT INTO THE CONTROL ARM!!!!!)
- After cutting the weak spot in the sleeve I returned to beating the chisel through the bushing sleeve....it's pretty quick work at this point.
- Pound the bushing sleeve out of the control arm

Install the New Bushing
- Clean up the hole in the control arm (I used fine sand paper - 180 grit)
- Clean up the new bushing (just in case)
- I used some 30 weight as lube for the install (not recommended by all)
- This is where the Advance Auto Parts tool #648617 makes magic happen -
- Place the new bushing in the hole in the control arm.....it'll slide freely almost half way in
- Using the above mentioned tool, find the proper cup and driver and line it up on the bushing and hole
- I used an impact and drove it in smooth as butter. (At least the second one....the first one I used all kinds of tomfoolery to try getting it in...this tool finished driving it in)

Since the QuickLift comes pre-loaded with the spring I never touched the old springs....from my understanding this is a precision process and kind of dangerous....so I just left them be.

RE-ASSEMBLE AND YOU'RE DONE....JUST DON'T FORGET TO GET AN ALIGNMENT AND ADJUST YOUR HEADLIGHTS
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2012, 07:17 PM
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Default

Wow...a bunch of views but nothing said.....don't know why I'm wasting my time giving a little update on the shocks and QuickLifts but what the hell.....

So far all I have is 1 gripe about these....the driver side QuickLift's adjustment knob is facing the rear of the truck which locates it right between the drive axle and lower control arm....kinda a dumb place for it! This coulda been avoided by putting it forward facing like the passenger side is (especially since they are side specific).

Other than that....these things r great. The adjustment capabilities are great and the ride is really smooth. So far, so good.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:40 PM
infernoram07 infernoram07 is offline
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truck looks good I think I am going to go this route, last time I installed the front spacers and saw premature tire wear even with an alignment. Any issue with yours?
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:49 PM
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Well it is definitely a job well done and that new Rancho looks awesome. I've been told the Ranchos are even better than the Blisteins. Working on these can be very frustrating at times however you have proven that perseverance pays off. Here are some well deserved reps,
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Last edited by RansRAM; 12-10-2012 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:45 AM
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Great job! I did the same, took about 45 minutes a side. What is youre favorite setting for ride quality if you dont mind me asking?
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infernoram07 View Post
truck looks good I think I am going to go this route, last time I installed the front spacers and saw premature tire wear even with an alignment. Any issue with yours?
I haven't put enough miles on to notice any abnormal tire wear. Guess we will see. I had new tires put on the weekend before I put the QuickLifts and 9000XL's on the truck. Other than the "issue" with the ill-placed adjustment knob on the driver's front mentioned above.....no issues! Love 'em! I was told....not sure of the accuracy of this....but a guy should be able to spin the shock in the assembly 180 degrees and face the knob forward (where it should be). Might be something you want to check into unless you're going to do the myRide Controller right away. (I wanted to test drive 'em for a little before investing another $250)


Quote:
Originally Posted by RansRAM View Post
Well it is definitely a job well done and that new Rancho looks awesome. I've been told the Ranchos are even better than the Blisteins. Working on these can be very frustrating at times however you have proven that perseverance pays off. Here are some well deserved reps,
Thanks! Trucks are frustrating, at least to me! But my blood, sweat, and even a tear or two have gone into every one that I have owned.....I love my truck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MusumeciBoats View Post
Great job! I did the same, took about 45 minutes a side. What is youre favorite setting for ride quality if you dont mind me asking?
Man, I wish mine only took 45 minutes a side! Guess if I laid off the beer a little, got everything I needed (tools, parts) maybe it would've! Right now I have them set at 7 front and back. It is a little stiff but I figure that's ok, it is a truck! I will be adding the myRide Controller shortly and that'll give me the opportunity to play more with the adjustment and find that ideal setting I like.
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Last edited by namccanna; 12-11-2012 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:16 AM
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I'm about to utilize this write up to fight this dreaded strut bolt. Mine are EFFED. Your post will not go to waste! It was EXACTLY what I was looking for. You are a life saver.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:13 PM
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gonefishin776 ..... Good luck and happy wrenching!
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by namccanna View Post
gonefishin776 ..... Good luck and happy wrenching!
This thread was an absolute life safer....That was a pain in the arse. But it's done and it feels good having done it myself. I literally had to follow this step by step, needed the exact tools. Maybe a few variations here and there. I had no idea these bushings at the strut/LCA were such a problem on these vehicles.

Kind of worry the 4" grade 8 bolt isn't long enough (the nut sits flush with the end of the bolt). But there is the lock washer on there and I'm gonna to make an effort to check on it after every drive to make sure it's not backing off.

Thanks for this awesome post.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonefishin776 View Post
Kind of worry the 4" grade 8 bolt isn't long enough (the nut sits flush with the end of the bolt). But there is the lock washer on there and I'm gonna to make an effort to check on it after every drive to make sure it's not backing off.
Glad u found it useful! The 4" bolts left about a thread and a half out past the nut when I was done with my install. If it is sitting flush or less, I would grab a couple 4 1/2" bolts just for peace of mind and swap them out before the 4"ers seize in the bushings.
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