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  #21  
Old 01-03-2013, 03:05 PM
Kman521 Kman521 is offline
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I was able to meter out the 4 pin connector in the truck and I confirmed that one lead does go to 12 volts when I push the brake pedal but the wiring doesn't seem to match up with the adapter I bought even though I was told it's good for a 2013. Now I'm wondering if Dodge through a wrench into the works and switched up the plug wiring on the 2013. or maybe I'm losing it.
Anyway, it's cold, snowing and I'm tired of laying in the slush on the floor and since I don't need the brake controller until the spring I'm going to wait and investigate it further when the weather cooperates.
Hopefully someone else that lives where the weather is nice can check into it further.

Keith
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2013, 10:28 PM
rraulston rraulston is offline
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Hmmm Im going to the trailer place tomorrow and will report back....Thanks..
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  #23  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:40 PM
rraulston rraulston is offline
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Well, I got my a$$ kicked today. I bought a prodigy 2 and went to install it. 3 out of the 4 wires on the vehicle brake plug were usable for the 4 wire install. Brake signal, ground and power. The 4th wire on the vehicle plug is always hot on my truck so its not possible to hook up the brake light wire to that plug. No biggy, I will just tap the brake switch on the pedal. There are 3 wires on the brake pedal. one is 12v constant, one is 1-3v and the third has no voltage(pedal depressed or not) I have spent 3 hours probing at least 50 different wires in any plug I could get my hands on and there is no brake wire to tap into. No kidding......wtf.... I now have to resort to rigging a micro switch on the pedal in order to have the proper brake pedal 12v signal.....PITA!!
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  #24  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:11 PM
Kman521 Kman521 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rraulston View Post
Well, I got my a$$ kicked today. I bought a prodigy 2 and went to install it. 3 out of the 4 wires on the vehicle brake plug were usable for the 4 wire install. Brake signal, ground and power. The 4th wire on the vehicle plug is always hot on my truck so its not possible to hook up the brake light wire to that plug. No biggy, I will just tap the brake switch on the pedal. There are 3 wires on the brake pedal. one is 12v constant, one is 1-3v and the third has no voltage(pedal depressed or not) I have spent 3 hours probing at least 50 different wires in any plug I could get my hands on and there is no brake wire to tap into. No kidding......wtf.... I now have to resort to rigging a micro switch on the pedal in order to have the proper brake pedal 12v signal.....PITA!!
Something doesn't seem right. I am sure I saw one lead switch to 12 volts on the 4 pin plug on my truck when I push the brake pedal but it didn't seem to correspond to the correct connection on the adapter I bought. I might get some time on Sunday to take a closer look at mine. Are you sure your brake lights are working?
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  #25  
Old 01-06-2013, 02:44 AM
rraulston rraulston is offline
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o.k. so it's in and functioning flawlessly. Here is what I did, but understand there will be differences in different trucks. In the picture above, I used the factory plug. I crimped 3 male spade connectors on the black, white and blue wires of my Prodigy controller. These fit perfectly in the factory plug as it is female. On my controller the black is positive, the white is negative and the blue is the signal wire. Simple. Then the issue. My vehicle plugs 4th wire (pink) was always hot too. I verified this three times over 2 days. The red wire from the controller needs to go on the brake curcuit that is 0v normal and +12v when the brake pedal is pushed. Couldn't find one at first. I thought I would just tap a tail light for the brake curcuit but learned that the circuit activates with the turn signals as well!! Not good!! So then i went to the cab brake light. I poped the light cover off and found a white w/green striped wire (dang, i think it's green) and replaced the light. On the drivers side, I popped off the trim that runs along the edge of the carpet where you step to get in the vehicle. The long piece of trim is also attached to the kick panel which pulls straight back to remove. Under the trim you will find a large harness. I tapped the wht/grn wire and ran it up to the controller directly behind the kick panel. That was where I found my brake "on" signal I needed to complete the install. So it's all buttoned all up and I attach the trailer and set off to adjust the brake. Flawless.....VICTORY!!

FYI:
1) I don't know why i had no wire that was normal 0V and 12v when the brake was activated.
2) Don't tap a rear brake light. When you use a turn signal, your controller will think you are pumping the brakes!!
3) Male spades plug right into the factory plug.
4) forget the wires on the brake pedal. 1 is 0v constant, one is 12v constant aad the other is like a 0-3v. You will get a "service parking brake" warning if you mess with it.
5) maybe if the computer was told there was a trailer brake, the wires would function differently...dunno..
6) I could do a complete install is someone elses truck in less than 30 knowing what I know now...
7) and when you shut off the truck, the 12v feed to the controller does not instantly go off. It takes awhile and finally does..

Good Luck!!! ray
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  #26  
Old 01-06-2013, 09:20 AM
Kman521 Kman521 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rraulston View Post
o.k. so it's in and functioning flawlessly. Here is what I did, but understand there will be differences in different trucks. In the picture above, I used the factory plug. I crimped 3 male spade connectors on the black, white and blue wires of my Prodigy controller. These fit perfectly in the factory plug as it is female. On my controller the black is positive, the white is negative and the blue is the signal wire. Simple. Then the issue. My vehicle plugs 4th wire (pink) was always hot too. I verified this three times over 2 days. The red wire from the controller needs to go on the brake curcuit that is 0v normal and +12v when the brake pedal is pushed. Couldn't find one at first. I thought I would just tap a tail light for the brake curcuit but learned that the circuit activates with the turn signals as well!! Not good!! So then i went to the cab brake light. I poped the light cover off and found a white w/green striped wire (dang, i think it's green) and replaced the light. On the drivers side, I popped off the trim that runs along the edge of the carpet where you step to get in the vehicle. The long piece of trim is also attached to the kick panel which pulls straight back to remove. Under the trim you will find a large harness. I tapped the wht/grn wire and ran it up to the controller directly behind the kick panel. That was where I found my brake "on" signal I needed to complete the install. So it's all buttoned all up and I attach the trailer and set off to adjust the brake. Flawless.....VICTORY!!

FYI:
1) I don't know why i had no wire that was normal 0V and 12v when the brake was activated.
2) Don't tap a rear brake light. When you use a turn signal, your controller will think you are pumping the brakes!!
3) Male spades plug right into the factory plug.
4) forget the wires on the brake pedal. 1 is 0v constant, one is 12v constant aad the other is like a 0-3v. You will get a "service parking brake" warning if you mess with it.
5) maybe if the computer was told there was a trailer brake, the wires would function differently...dunno..
6) I could do a complete install is someone elses truck in less than 30 knowing what I know now...
7) and when you shut off the truck, the 12v feed to the controller does not instantly go off. It takes awhile and finally does..

Good Luck!!! ray
Thanks Ray for that info!

I was going to meter out mine again today but it snowed again so it will have to wait but I will report back once I do.
Maybe the Sport and the SLT are different?
If I could buy the factory service manual I would but do they even sell them to the public anymore?

Keith
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  #27  
Old 01-06-2013, 11:48 AM
rraulston rraulston is offline
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Thanks, i'm curious. When you meter out the pink wire, do it several times..LMK!
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2013, 04:10 PM
Kman521 Kman521 is offline
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I finally got around to metering mine out and the pink wire shows 12 volts on it as soon as you turn the truck on.
The red is constant 12 volts, the green goes to the bumper for trailer brakes.
Now the black wire should be ground but I measure 1.7 millivolts on it when the truck is off and 5 millivolts when the truck is running. I had my meter grounded to the chassis. When I checked it between the battery negative terminal and that black wire I read 4 millivolts with the truck off and 10 millivolts with it on.
I do see 12 volts from the pink to the black wire when the truck is on but that black wire does not go directly to a chassis ground.
I do not see any of the wires on the 4 pin plug change when I step on the brake peddle so there is no way the DrawTite adapter can work.
I saw another post here where someone used the three wires as they are and used a separate wire to trigger it from the brake pedal so I'm wondering why I see that small random voltage on the black wire.

It appears that Dodge have definitely changed their wiring for 2013.

Keith
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  #29  
Old 01-10-2013, 12:32 AM
rraulston rraulston is offline
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I did not check voltage to the black wire, just continuity to ground, and it had it. This was a complicated install......
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  #30  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:11 PM
Parker420 Parker420 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman521 View Post
BTW, the harness I quoted for my after market controller is for hard wiring on the controller end because I have an older controller without a connector.
If you get a newer controller they have a connector on them so you can buy a cable which plugs into the controller and then into the factory plug, plug and play. I really don't like the controller under the dash so I will probably change to the factory one at some point.
Thanks for the chat

Steve

Last edited by Parker420; 01-14-2013 at 10:38 PM.
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