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  #1  
Old 01-09-2013, 07:58 PM
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Default Seeking directions to transmission help

Hey everyone. It looks like I need to replace a Transmission Solenoid on my truck. Here is what I'm working with:
2004 Dodge Ram 1500
4.7L V8
4x4
I went to O'Reilly's and got hooked up on the computer. Here's the codes I got:
P0700
P0841
They suggested I go to a mechanic. The mechanic suggested I go to a transmission expert! haha. They also said it would be around $300- $400 to fix/replace the Transmission Solenoid.
Well, I'm mechanically inclined and I'd rather buy the $100 part and do it myself but was hoping to get some advice before dropping the pan...
Questions and/or comments welcome!

-Ryan
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:29 PM
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Hello and welcome!


Good to have you with us, I hope you enjoy the board!
You might want to try posting your question here where more mechanical minded people will see it and greater your chances for an answer
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:37 PM
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There are a few members on here that could help you out for sure. One is RamTech. The other is transengineer. Hopefully they'll see this, or you could try to message them.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:55 PM
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Welcome joining here is a great decision for any RAM owner so much knowledge and information here!


As stated Ramtech and transengineer are very knowledgeable and hopefully they will see this or you post your issue in the 3rd generation section of the forum. Unfortunately as a new member you are unable to send a PM until you have reached the 25 posts.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:54 AM
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I have moved this post here (Help Zone/3rd Gen) to improve your chances of getting qualified help.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:53 AM
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P0841 is an LR Pressure Switch fault. This could indeed be a bad solenoid module, or it could be bad wiring (or a bad wiring connection), which is probably at least as likely as a bad solenoid. So if I were you, I would check the wiring first.

Does your trans go into limp-in (4th gear only) all the time, every time, or is it just once in a while? Let me know and I'll suggest where to go next....
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:46 PM
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First of all, Thank You all for the help. I guess I should have listed the symptoms with my first post.
Initially my check engine light came on. I immediately went through all my fluids, even replaced the engine oil (it was about time anyway). A week or two later it got cold out and then I noticed my truck would get up and go. Also, it stayed at about 2,800 rpm at 60 mph (normally it's around 1,800 rpm at 60 mph).
I had to manually shift up and down with the gear shifter (automatic tranny). I had no change between 1st and 2nd gear, and when in over-D it would never shift up. I figure when this occurs I am stuck using 2nd and 3rd gears.. and I have to manually shift them from the tree. This is about the time I took it to O'reilly's.
It only happens once in a while when it is cold (so it seems). My truck gets parked in a detached garage. About a week ago I put a small electric heater in there and turn it on overnight pointed underneath the truck toward the engine/transmission. So far, it hasn't had a reoccurance.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:04 PM
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Hmmmm... sounds like a flaky wiring connection to me. If I were you, I'd try simply disconnecting the main transmission harness, checking for any dirt / water / debris, and re-connecting it. That may well take care of it.

The main transmission electrical harness is on the driver's side of the trans. The 23-pin connector is on the solenoid / valve body and sticks vertically up out of the trans, a few inches above the oil pan rail.

The harness connector has a locking lever and a secondary latch. The transmission side of the connector is square and has two small round posts sticking out of opposite sides of the connector (one towards the front of the vehicle, one towards the rear). The locking lever on the harness (which is probably gray in color) wraps around three sides of the connector. The latch is on the driver's side. The two sides that wrap around have slots that engage with the two posts on the transmission connector. When the connector is unplugged, the locking lever (latch side) is down (toward the open end of the harness). When you plug it into the trans, the slots engage with the posts. Then, you push the locking lever latch bar up, which rotates the locking lever and clamps the harness connector down into the trans connector (by grabbing and pulling on those posts). I know this is hard to visualize... sorry but I don't have a picture.

To disconnect the harness, you first need to release the secondary lock. This is typically a red plastic piece (on the driver's side of the connector, just below the locking lever latch bar, which will be at the TOP of the connector when it's locked). You'll need to slide this red secondary lock either up or down (I'm not sure which, probably down but I'm not positive) before you can unlock the lever. Once that's done, reach up above and behind the center of the locking lever. The latch that holds the locking lever is just behind the face of the center of the locking lever (there's about 1/4 inch space between them). Put your finger behind the face of the locking lever, and push it and the latch APART. You need to push the latch (the piece just behind the top of the locking lever) in, towards the transmission (away from the locking lever) in order to release it. Once the locking lever pops free, rotate it down as you lift the harness up and off.

When you go to re-connect it, make sure the locking lever is DOWN (towards the open end of the harness connector) so it will engage the posts on the trans connector, then plug it in and rotate the locking lever up til it latches. Then slide the secondary lock into position to retain it.

At the PCM end, you should find four identical connectors on the PCM. The trans wiring is in the #4 connector, so it will be one of the end ones. It should have a green mark or green piece of tape on or beside the connector.

Hope this helps. Try the 'ol unplug-and-reconnect and see if simply "exercising" the connectors cleans up the connection for you.
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