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  #11  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jhinkle1989 View Post
Let us know how you come out
will do. I really hope that is the problem. I just want my truck back to riding somewhat normal. I can deal with a stiff bump here and there. But i don't like feeling my brains rattle out. (exaggeration)
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  #12  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
This leads me to think you have a steering/suspension part that's defective. A braking vibration that's caused by a rotor runout, variation from parallel, or thickness variation won't come and go.
hmmm. well which part?? haha the million dollar question. I'll keep diagnosing and fixing each thing at a time and sooner or later figure it out. thanks for the heads up

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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Also, since the lug nuts center the wheels, the more sequences you take to tightening the lug nuts the better it will be. When I do mine (I have a similar issue...) I have the wheel completely off the ground, I put the lug nuts on and just finger tighten each one, then in a criss cross pattern tighten them in about 5-10 steps. This seems ridiculous and takes a little longer but it ensures the wheel ends up centered(or as close as it can get). Have someone hold the brake will you really tighten them(don't set it partially on the ground then tighten because it won't be centered with weight on it).

I've come to hate the issue I have with my wheels and am looking for a used set of 2013 17" oem wheels...
Ya I try to do it that way, maybe not as in depth. But i put them on hand tight up off the ground, had my little bro hold the tire while I put them on a bit tighter. Then lowered it and tightened again (all in star pattern). But now I'm remember when I went back to torque them. I had to loosen them first, and i didn't lift it up off the ground...that would cause it to un-center I assume. (obviously I am/was very ignorant to the whole lug/hub centric differences).

still wouldn't hurt to take it in, get the balance checked and have them torque them up
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  #13  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:28 AM
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Then lowered it and tightened again (all in star pattern).
Yeah don't do this. It needs to be 100% final tightened before putting weight on it.

Yeah getting them road force balanced can only help.
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  #14  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Yeah don't do this. It needs to be 100% final tightened before putting weight on it.

Yeah getting them road force balanced can only help.
ahhh i see now. I mis read that you DON'T do that. see, I'm learning stuff i felt like i already knew, but I never had to apply it. I remember being younger and my step dad always saying "do this while the wheel is down, then this when its up) but now Im thinkin he definitely meant breaking them lose while on the ground before lifting. Now i see why it's important to have them all the way tightened before lowering.. Common sense really, just never thought out it much.
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:33 AM
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I agree with others, I'd look at your wheels and tires first. Warped rotors will make the brake pedal pulse, but shouldn't make the front end shake. I'm not sure how many miles on your truck, but it could be a front end part. To find it, thats tough, you almost need to find an expert on front ends in your area.
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  #16  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:37 AM
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ahhh i see now. I mis read that you DON'T do that. see, I'm learning stuff i felt like i already knew, but I never had to apply it. I remember being younger and my step dad always saying "do this while the wheel is down, then this when its up) but now Im thinkin he definitely meant breaking them lose while on the ground before lifting. Now i see why it's important to have them all the way tightened before lowering.. Common sense really, just never thought out it much.
Yeah if it's hubcentric like nearly all oem wheels it doesn't really matter. And some wheels are both hubcentric and lugcentric, in a way, where the hub centers the wheel then as you tighten the lugs they are also acorn shaped. But with a lugcentric only wheel if you put weight on it before tight it will push it off center. If it's off center just 1 or 2 mm that will give vibration, there's a lot of mass rotating around that point.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Yeah if it's hubcentric like nearly all oem wheels it doesn't really matter. And some wheels are both hubcentric and lugcentric, in a way, where the hub centers the wheel then as you tighten the lugs they are also acorn shaped. But with a lugcentric only wheel if you put weight on it before tight it will push it off center. If it's off center just 1 or 2 mm that will give vibration, there's a lot of mass rotating around that point.
that makes sense. I'm assuming my wheels are only lugcentric. not positive tho. Also, the dealership I bought it from is a toyota dealership...think i should go in there and ask about the balancing? the shop by me wants $150 to do "those size tires"
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:45 AM
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what wheels are they, and what tires?

If the center bore isn't snug around the bore on the spindle, they aren't hubcentric.

The adapter for the balancing machine is called a haweka adapter, or something weird like that...
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
what wheels are they, and what tires?

If the center bore isn't snug around the bore on the spindle, they aren't hubcentric.

The adapter for the balancing machine is called a haweka adapter, or something weird like that...
vtech warlords and federal couragia M/Ts. I just can't remember from putting them on...in the dark...what the dealio was. Also i'm not terribly familiar with the terms bore and spindle
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:54 AM
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The bore is the hole in the center of the wheel. The spindle is what you bolt the wheel on to(basically the lug nuts and everything around it). The spindle is the piece that attaches to the control arms, it holds the brakes, etc.

So there is a round part on the spindle that sticks out a little, probably 1/4" to 1/2" on the spindle. This is to center the oem wheels perfectly. The oem wheels have an identical(well....slightly larger) bore/hole in the center of the wheels. So when you put the wheels on the bore in the wheel matches perfectly to that round piece on the spindle, and it is centered. Most likely, the bore on your aftermarket wheels is significantly larger than the round part on the spindle, which means it won't center based off of this. Aftermarket companies do this so their wheels fit multiple vehicles and they can sell more wheels.
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